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cracked radiator

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    #16
    i got mine at LQK in portland oregon....thats local for me....

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      #17
      Originally posted by organ View Post
      I brought the engine up to temp today with the old cap in place and it seemed to run well(no leaking). This leads me to believe that the crack is not new and has only been made apparent by the new cap. Apart from potential overheating(which the car has never done), are there any downsides to running a cap that doesn't create an adequate seal and thus allows air into the system?

      I'd have no qualms about simply replacing the radiator if the car wasn't twenty years old. I'm afraid that fixing it properly, it being a pressurized system and all, might stress other potential weak spots i.e. the water pump seal.
      it could affect your idle if you get air in system

      Ride List
      1990 Accord dx coupe - my baby (dsm turbo set up in progress) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3202853
      2005 Mazda 6s - daily driver http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3171724(totaled)
      newest 2006 mazdaspeed 6 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/4073987/2006-mazda-mazda6

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        #18
        Originally posted by organ View Post
        I brought the engine up to temp today with the old cap in place and it seemed to run well(no leaking). This leads me to believe that the crack is not new and has only been made apparent by the new cap. Apart from potential overheating(which the car has never done), are there any downsides to running a cap that doesn't create an adequate seal and thus allows air into the system?

        I'd have no qualms about simply replacing the radiator if the car wasn't twenty years old. I'm afraid that fixing it properly, it being a pressurized system and all, might stress other potential weak spots i.e. the water pump seal.
        Probably means that the old cap is broken too.
        If the radiator is cracked, its cracked - that's all there is to it.
        If air can get in, fluid will leak out.

        If you are worried that fixing a problem might cause another problem, then this world can't help you.
        Your right, It will find the next weak spot, but that is a reality of physics.

        If your not willing to fix the problem properly, then things will end up costing you more money in the long run.


        Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks

        My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute

        A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.

        If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.

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          #19
          100 bucks on ebay you can get an all aluminum OEM fit rad from radiator classic with free shipping mine will be here shortly

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            #20
            Polished Silla

            heres my 100$ ebay silla, the welds look like hammered dog turds but it seems
            well constructed. Took about a half hour and some mothers mag polish and a bunch of wads of cloth

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              #21
              Originally posted by JBradley500 View Post
              make sure the one you order has a drain plug because if it doesn't youll regret it later on.
              YES absolutely make sure that you get one with a drain plug. when i got in an accident and had a bad radiator leak, i didn't have a choice but to get a radiator without a drain plug and wish they had one in stock with a drain plug now. when i do need to do my coolant i suppose i'll need to remove the lower hose.
              1997 Ford Explorer V-6 AT (what a piece of junk)
              1993 Nissan Sentra M/T (front end damage, off road for now)
              1999 Mercury Mountaineer V-8 A/T - RIP (rolled: totaled)
              1992 Honda Accord A/T EX - RIP (transmission shot: sold to junkyard)

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