i got mine at LQK in portland oregon....thats local for me....
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Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
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The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
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Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
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cracked radiator
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Originally posted by organ View PostI brought the engine up to temp today with the old cap in place and it seemed to run well(no leaking). This leads me to believe that the crack is not new and has only been made apparent by the new cap. Apart from potential overheating(which the car has never done), are there any downsides to running a cap that doesn't create an adequate seal and thus allows air into the system?
I'd have no qualms about simply replacing the radiator if the car wasn't twenty years old. I'm afraid that fixing it properly, it being a pressurized system and all, might stress other potential weak spots i.e. the water pump seal.
Ride List
1990 Accord dx coupe - my baby (dsm turbo set up in progress) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3202853
2005 Mazda 6s - daily driver http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3171724(totaled)
newest 2006 mazdaspeed 6 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/4073987/2006-mazda-mazda6
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Originally posted by organ View PostI brought the engine up to temp today with the old cap in place and it seemed to run well(no leaking). This leads me to believe that the crack is not new and has only been made apparent by the new cap. Apart from potential overheating(which the car has never done), are there any downsides to running a cap that doesn't create an adequate seal and thus allows air into the system?
I'd have no qualms about simply replacing the radiator if the car wasn't twenty years old. I'm afraid that fixing it properly, it being a pressurized system and all, might stress other potential weak spots i.e. the water pump seal.
If the radiator is cracked, its cracked - that's all there is to it.
If air can get in, fluid will leak out.
If you are worried that fixing a problem might cause another problem, then this world can't help you.
Your right, It will find the next weak spot, but that is a reality of physics.
If your not willing to fix the problem properly, then things will end up costing you more money in the long run.
Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks
My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute
A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.
If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.
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Originally posted by JBradley500 View Postmake sure the one you order has a drain plug because if it doesn't youll regret it later on.1997 Ford Explorer V-6 AT (what a piece of junk)
1993 Nissan Sentra M/T (front end damage, off road for now)
1999 Mercury Mountaineer V-8 A/T - RIP (rolled: totaled)
1992 Honda Accord A/T EX - RIP (transmission shot: sold to junkyard)
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