F22ax N/a newb questions

[EGstranger]

First post.. give me a break , I'm used to garbage forums ( cough cough honda-tech)

Im looking to purchase a f22a6 for my eg. Id like to be about roughly 180 hp/170 tq from the final product.

Mods are as follows
h23 IM/TB
PnP head
Delta Regrind
Full exhaust
CAI
Balance shaft delete

Please tell me with a good tune if this would work with the numbers I listed. Also are there any OEM honda pistons I could swap in for a bump in c/r?
Open for constructive criticism but not flat out insults. I have done an incredible amount of googling and search and there aren't alot of references I've found for gains for a specific build.

Thanks
Adam

[wed3k]

the only piston that i can think of would be a jdm f22b and even that will only net you half a point.

180 hp is doable but youre going to need a little bit more compression and a better cam. the delta cams are somewhat a generic grind. bisimoto grinds are a lot more proven but cost more.

im not too sure what your budget is...because you can always get forged pistons and convert the stock rod to accept a floating type wrist pin if youre trying to save money.

[EGstranger]

So I'm OK with spending more money on a cam but I didn't want to get into the bottom end , I havent found a clear answer if shaving the head will net in any HP/CR worthy enough for the money/gains. Flat face valves? Some one make flat faced valves? I'll Google it.
Adam

Btw
Thank you for the great response .. you didn't troll me. I apperciate it.

[deevergote]

Your plans are very vague... what specific cam? What size exhaust? What will be done to your head specifically? What do you mean "will it work"? Sure, it will work. How much power will it make? It's hard to say.

Honestly, with an upgraded camshaft and P&P'd head, I wouldn't attempt a stock bottom end. Your head is going to be able to make power beyond the bottom end's RPM limit, and you'll be risking putting a piston through that expensive head of yours. Build the bottom end as well. Forged rods, ARP rod bolts, forged pistons. In doing that, you can increase the compression as well.

Properly built, you can make 200-250whp and still remain somewhat streetable (250whp N/A F22A is about as high as you'll want to go if you want to drive it on the street, and even that won't be very fun...)

[wed3k]

ive gotten 9.4:1 with shaving the head .035 but the timing belt jumped a tooth because i couldn't get enough tension on the timing belt.

no damage, just something id never do again. id rather spend the money on a turbo kit and use the low compression to my advantage. you're going to be tuning it anyways.

[SOHC-FTW]

ive gotten 9.4:1 with shaving the head .035 but the timing belt jumped a tooth because i couldn't get enough tension on the timing belt.

no damage, just something id never do again. id rather spend the money on a turbo kit and use the low compression to my advantage. you're going to be tuning it anyways.

Huh....... interesting i've never had this issue before hope i don't on my current build. Only issue i ever had was the timing is a real PITA.

[deevergote]

I honestly wouldn't bother shaving the head. Hell, if you shave too much off and end up warping the head, it's junk. You won't be able to take any more off to make the surface true again.

If you want to raise compression, do it by installing new pistons.

[SOHC-FTW]

You can take off .040 on a honda head. Warping an F22 head is not a big deal you can buy one for the price of machine work, swapping things over isn't to bad either.

Different strokes for different folks.

[deevergote]

Yes, but if the head has had an expensive P&P job, and an expensive valve job... then you're not looking at a cheap thing to replace anymore. You can't transfer that from one head to the next.

Think, man. Think.

[SOHC-FTW]

Yeah, but anyone who is going to spend $800+ on a CNC port job or VJ will mostly likely be doing an extreme build not a mild one such as 180hp which is around 150 whp give or take.

I know my reasons behind what i'm doing, but this isn't about my build. Safely i see no issues with a max of .020-.030 a tad bit of a bump in compression will not be a massive gain but it will help on the common mild build a little and cost very little. I mean if you've already got the topend off you'll most likely want to have it true'd up and if you're doing a slight build i say go for a bit more aggressive mill.

[wed3k]

yea port work is a 10 hour minimum and its more if you really want matching flow numbers plus the performance valve job work and new bronze guides is easily another 2 hours.

id rather take the bottom end apart, freshen it up with new rings, deck the surface like .010 since they are usually in the hole from the factory. run a single layer headgasket and get a good cam.

i know PEP has OS valves but they most likely aren't flat faced either. i do want to spend some good money on valves when it comes time.

[deevergote]

Yeah, but anyone who is going to spend $800+ on a CNC port job or VJ will mostly likely be doing an extreme build not a mild one such as 180hp which is around 150 whp give or take.

I know my reasons behind what i'm doing, but this isn't about my build. Safely i see no issues with a max of .020-.030 a tad bit of a bump in compression will not be a massive gain but it will help on the common mild build a little and cost very little. I mean if you've already got the topend off you'll most likely want to have it true'd up and if you're doing a slight build i say go for a bit more aggressive mill.

But this thread is about the OP's build, not yours... and he included P&P in that build. Once that much is put into the head, risking it would be unwise... both in terms of shaving the head, and in terms of running a stock bottom end that could plant a piston right into it.

[Leung]

I wouldn't buy an A6 because those will more than likely have a ton of mileage on them especially if it's from a salvage yard. How about just an F22A from Japan? Basically the same engine but less miles unless you're going to completely rebuild it from the bottom up.

[deevergote]

If you're rebuilding it, it doesn't matter how many miles are on it. An F22A from Japan with 30,000 miles on it has probably been sitting on a shelf for the past 10 years... letting the seals dry out. Chances are good that it'll burn or leak oil the second you start it up. Low mileage JDM motors aren't always the best answer.

For a full rebuild, condition doesn't really matter, as long as there's no damage to the parts that aren't being replaced or reconditioned.

[wed3k]

less mileage doesn't always mean better. im sure youve seen a lot of the h22as from japan that has all that oil build up and sludge. that is horrible for rings.