I'm using 10w40 and am barely getting 10 PSI at idle. It is cold out too barely 30F. Does anyone have this same problem. Should I use 20w50 When we get to the summer.
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What Engine Oil Viscosity Are You Using?
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If you are worried this bad about your oil PSI then i suggest you take out the oil pump make sure it's within spec and go from there.Also worn out main bearings can and will cause oil psi issues.
Using a heavier weight oil is just a band-aid you might aswell check other more important things out that can cause the issues rather than switching weights.Better to fix/check things now rather than having it fail on you and costing more money.
02 Crv
02 silverado Ex cab Z71, 2011 TRD 17" wheels, 245/80/17, ls1 cam, AFE intake, 3" catback, tuned by Larry at LSXperformance&pcm tuning driven daily.
92 Acura Legend colbalt blue LS Coupe, custom intake, custom vibrant 2.5 cat back, led cluster and high beams, 2016 Coyote GT 18x8 wheels 235/40/18.
Coming Soon Tein TSX coilovers.
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I am not going to keep this car forever so I am really not looking to replace parts in the engine. If I would replace parts in the bottom of the engine I might as well do the whole engine but then i'll be in it easily a grand. It won't hurt it to run a thicker oil it will prolong and stop further damage. I'm just curious if anyone runs a thick oil like 20w50 or 10w40 or any oil like that.1991 Honda Accord 2DR LX 180,000 Miles RIP
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I ended up running 10w-40 in my old CB when it was burning oil badly, def. helped alot. Did not have an oil press. gauge, but on 0* mornings, the poor starter! I can't exactly remember how long I ran 10w-40 but it was probably over a yr-20K miles. I parted the car out but I was pretty much @ the point where I was considering adding quarts of 20w-50 to thicken it up alittle more. I was not really concerned about the motor either, goal was keep it going and keep the diesel like smoke cloud to a minimum!
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Originally posted by curtie94 View PostI am not going to keep this car forever so I am really not looking to replace parts in the engine. If I would replace parts in the bottom of the engine I might as well do the whole engine but then i'll be in it easily a grand. It won't hurt it to run a thicker oil it will prolong and stop further damage. I'm just curious if anyone runs a thick oil like 20w50 or 10w40 or any oil like that.
02 Crv
02 silverado Ex cab Z71, 2011 TRD 17" wheels, 245/80/17, ls1 cam, AFE intake, 3" catback, tuned by Larry at LSXperformance&pcm tuning driven daily.
92 Acura Legend colbalt blue LS Coupe, custom intake, custom vibrant 2.5 cat back, led cluster and high beams, 2016 Coyote GT 18x8 wheels 235/40/18.
Coming Soon Tein TSX coilovers.
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Originally posted by curtie94 View PostI'm using 10w40 and am barely getting 10 PSI at idle. It is cold out too barely 30F. Does anyone have this same problem. Should I use 20w50 When we get to the summer.
Second question - Do you know what the actual spec is supposed to be?
Third question - What makes you think 10psi at idle is too low?
Fourth question - Why do you want to change the viscosity in summer to 20w50?
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In the F20B I ran 10w30, and in my Subaru I run 5w30, don't know yet what I'm going to run in the RB25 yet, I haven't looked into what people recommend on different sites
PSN ID's:Tidashoni
1992 Accord EX Coupe
My FS Thread
Not so DD 2013 Subaru Impreza WRX STI
Originally posted by deevergoteBoosting with a carb is like being a sniper with a bazooka... it works, it gets the job done, but it's not the most precise method.
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1: Im not too sure how accurate it is, it is a cheap sunpro from VIP cost me $17.
2: 10 PSI min
3:The manual says 10 psi minimum and it is barely putting that out.
4: A thicker oil will make more pressure.
My oil light was coming on at idle. The gauge read dangerously close to 0 when it got to operating temp at idle 750 rpms, so I added some oil treatment then it was better right around 10 at idle.Last edited by curtie94; 02-04-2012, 12:53 AM.1991 Honda Accord 2DR LX 180,000 Miles RIP
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I usually use 10w-30 all the time in hot weather. I recently added the LUCAS Oil Stabilizer, the stuff where they have the demo in-store you can see the oil viscosity on the ones with the additive it "clings" better, Anyway after that its great its still fine I didn't even use half the bottle I can notice with high rpms sounds like a happily running engine, not starving for oil/screaming. Also had another common problem with oil in spark plug tubes, after lucas it hasn't leaked yet.. bottle says it slows oil leaks this stuff is great i'm gonna add it from now on DEFinitely helps quiet down the infamous noisy F22 valvetrain,,, lol can sound like a diesel
hope all this wasn't
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I run straight 40 mobil 1.this was put together by evil_demon_01 . You can also fined all this and more by him in the Common Beginner Technical Info can be found in here. PLEASE READ HERE FIRST
Not this one though.1990 to 1993 accord fuel psi .
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Diagnose a Check Engine Light (also S/D4 transmission error codes)
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I would use OEM oil pressure switch along with the $17 gauge that you don't know how accurate it is. Or have that gauge system certified for accuracy, so you can say it is accurate every time raises question about the accuracy.
Or, use OEM pressure switch only.
Accords' maintenance manual says that minimum 10 psi at idle speed and 50 psi at 3000 rpm. Both are with engine temp at normal operating temp.
To achieve this, your engine may take more viscous oil than specified in the manual or than other people uses for their cars. This is because your engine's oil pump is not pumping as well as it used to or bearings/internals are worn out that can not maintain pressure.
Save money for engine repair or sell the car while it is running.A&P-IA
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