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swapping a H23

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    #1

    swapping a H23

    Alright so here's the deal. I have a 92 accord lx that had a F22 in it. Sad news 290k miles on a originally built motor means bad news is you had the car when you were 16.

    So to replace the motor I have been building from ground up an H23A1 out of a 94 prelude si. I've got the motor finished and only have a few things left, such as the black box actuator thing that controls the butterflies in the intake.

    My question is about the wiring harness and ecu, I know I can use my stock ecu, but would it be easier to just go get a prelude ecu for that motor? If I do that will it plug back into wires in the firewall correctly like the stock harness.

    Second question is what kind of computer should I use? I would like to be able to work with it a little to squeeze out extra horsepower. But I don't know enough about that to make a decision myself.

    Help is greatly appreciated!


    If at first you don't suceed, then skydiving is not for you.

    I try not to down talk anyone, when I read my old questions I realize I was an idiot too.
    Tags: None
    #2
    The ECU you'll want is the P14. That's the ECU that came with the H23A1 originally. It will plug right into your factory harness. You will also need to add a pin to pin #17 on connector A to run to the black box connector. If you are using an external coil distributor then you can reuse your factory coil and it should plug into he factory harness. Depending on the header or exhaust manifold you use you may need to extend your oxygen sensor wiring. This can be done by opening the loom and letting out the existing wire that's bundled.
    My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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      #3
      Tuning an ECU takes a good deal of knowledge, which you clearly don't have yet... so don't even think about that until you've learned what it takes. Get the motor in and running right first.

      You want to use the P14 ECU from the corresponding Prelude. Don't use the Accord ECU. It will run, yes... but it won't be right. Not good for a freshly built motor especially! You will need to run some wires for the new ECU, such as for the knock sensor (and I'm thinking one other, but I forget... never actually did it myself, and I'm falling asleep on nighttime cold medicine right now...)
      The P14 will plug right in, though. Just be sure to get one from an OBD1 Prelude (95 and older.)


      When the time comes for tuning, a Civic's P06 ECU will be what you want. It will need to be modified and properly tuned, so you'll need to learn a bit (or find someone to do it for you.)



      If you built this H23A1 from the ground up, I hope you took care with the FRM cylinder walls. What pistons did you use? This goes beyond the scope of this particular thread, but I'm curious.






      Comment

        #4
        I took a look at my old wire harness, the two extra hook ups I need are the knock sensor and the IAB solenoid. If I get a wire harness for a prelude will all the connections be the same as my old wire harness?

        And the pistons I put in were the same as the stock ones, I didn't want to have to deal with changed compressions or anything like that yet, I don't remember the name brand of them I would have to check my box and I had the block in the machine shop for a week getting everything on it cleaned and inspected/fixed. The higher end stuff I've done is put in crower cams and a stage 2 comp clutch. I plan on useing the motor for a while, then im gonna reinforce a couple things and put a turbo on it.

        All this will happen after I figure out more about the computer of course. I've got the nuts and bolts figured out just not the electical.


        If at first you don't suceed, then skydiving is not for you.

        I try not to down talk anyone, when I read my old questions I realize I was an idiot too.

        Comment

          #5
          Don't remove your stock harness - just add the two wires necessary. It is literally 2 wires.

          The IAB and Knock can be run together off of a little sub-harness. Just read the FAQ about how to PIN the ecu harness (on your vehicle) and then run the wires from the harness plug - through firewall - under intake manifold and then the IAB up to the plug and the knock down to the knock. Done and Done. Its much easier than you may think.

          I also agree, P14 and leave it stock.

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            #6
            Alright ill give it a shot, I appreciate all the help. This is my first rebuild and im trying to make sure I have everything right for when I crank it up. Ill post back later on how it goes.


            If at first you don't suceed, then skydiving is not for you.

            I try not to down talk anyone, when I read my old questions I realize I was an idiot too.

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