what about this h22

[92accord ex]

im looking to swap my f22a6 out with a h22 and i found this block on CL, what do you guys think of this and price wise too. to me it seems real good and built pretty well. any help will be good.

http://southcoast.craigslist.org/pts/2795264850.html

[Jarrett]

I'd definitely be interested if it were me. My main concern would be the sleeves. He says he used over-sized Type-S pistons so you know it's been bored. I would ask to speak with the machine shop who did it to ensure the process was done correctly on the FRM cylinders. Also ask him why he's selling it.

[92accord ex]

I'd definitely be interested if it were me. My main concern would be the sleeves. He says he used over-sized Type-S pistons so you know it's been bored. I would ask to speak with the machine shop who did it to ensure the process was done correctly on the FRM cylinders. Also ask him why he's selling it.

ya i hear you its kinda hard to believe because its such a good price

[toycar]

I wouldn't mess with it. Your gonna want to check clearances on your own. Everything in thr block is oem parts.

Bored frm sleeves are a potential hazard. Def leaves no room for boring.in the future should a ring snap and score the cylinder walls.

Plus, missmatching cranks/rods/pistons is a delicate process. Piecing a lower end together without an elaborate plan is a bad idea.

Also, you could buy an h22 for a little more money that's known good and running. With this, you'd still need the rest of the motor. And you don't know for sure anything was done correctly, so your just going to redo it all anyways if you want it to be right. I personally wouldn't take anyone's word for anything via Craigslist. Especially something like this, that's been modded.

Work done isn't as valuable to me as.the piece of mind that work was done right.

My thoughts...

I bought an obd1 h22 complete motor, knocking rod, for $400 bux. Perfect candidate for a rebuild. Bought mine off Craigslist too. Came with manifolds and all.

[92accord ex]

I wouldn't mess with it. Your gonna want to check clearances on your own. Everything in thr block is oem parts.

Bored frm sleeves are a potential hazard. Def leaves no room for boring.in the future should a ring snap and score the cylinder walls.

Plus, missmatching cranks/rods/pistons is a delicate process. Piecing a lower end together without an elaborate plan is a bad idea.

Also, you could buy an h22 for a little more money that's known good and running. With this, you'd still need the rest of the motor. And you don't know for sure anything was done correctly, so your just going to redo it all anyways if you want it to be right. I personally wouldn't take anyone's word for anything via Craigslist. Especially something like this, that's been modded.

Work done isn't as valuable to me as.the piece of mind that work was done right.

My thoughts...

I bought an obd1 h22 complete motor, knocking rod, for $400 bux. Perfect candidate for a rebuild. Bought mine off Craigslist too. Came with manifolds and all.

i think your absoutly right thats why i wanted to get some opioins from people on the site, thanks bro

[92accord ex]

another question i have is a see a few h22 motors on CL and i call them up and they tell me it runs great but i pulled it out the car. how do you know if the motor is any good. you canit trust people on CL

[Oreellyfool]

another question i have is a see a few h22 motors on CL and i call them up and they tell me it runs great but i pulled it out the car. how do you know if the motor is any good. you canit trust people on CL

I have bought several motors on CL before. What I generally do is
1.) Check the condition of the motor in general, does it look like it was leaking oil, take the oil cap off and check for sludge in the head area.
2.) I pull the spark plugs, and look to see if it is running too lean/rich.
3.) If the tranny(With starter) is still attached to the motor, use jumper cables to the starter and test the compression. (With all the spark plugs out so the motor doesn't jump all over the place) If not still do a compression test but manually turn the motor over.

If it is just the lower end, always turn it over (if it has pistions) and make sure there is not scruff marks on the piston walls that could cause leaking.

Other than that I generally just like to turn the motor over to make sure nothing is binding and it turns easily.

I bought a f22a6 a couple weeks ago that the guy said it ran fine. I tore it apart to do a valve grind, rings and bearing done to just to make sure it will last me another 200k and there was literally 5 butts from his cigs on the pistons. Then again I am one of those guys who just pulled his h22a out to put on CL....


First post... cherry popped.

[92accord ex]

I have bought several motors on CL before. What I generally do is
1.) Check the condition of the motor in general, does it look like it was leaking oil, take the oil cap off and check for sludge in the head area.
2.) I pull the spark plugs, and look to see if it is running too lean/rich.
3.) If the tranny(With starter) is still attached to the motor, use jumper cables to the starter and test the compression. (With all the spark plugs out so the motor doesn't jump all over the place) If not still do a compression test but manually turn the motor over.

If it is just the lower end, always turn it over (if it has pistions) and make sure there is not scruff marks on the piston walls that could cause leaking.

Other than that I generally just like to turn the motor over to make sure nothing is binding and it turns easily.

I bought a f22a6 a couple weeks ago that the guy said it ran fine. I tore it apart to do a valve grind, rings and bearing done to just to make sure it will last me another 200k and there was literally 5 butts from his cigs on the pistons. Then again I am one of those guys who just pulled his h22a out to put on CL....


First post... cherry popped.

thanks man that helps out alot

[Oreellyfool]

thanks man that helps out alot

No problem, good luck on the swap. If you have any questions, pm me. My brain is still fresh on the reverse swap.

[Jarrett]

In this case mis-matched parts causes no interference issues. The slight increase in compression height (31mm vs. 30.5mm) has been verified on many builds. This will bring the piston to a point almost exactly even with the deck height. I would definitely only run a H22A or H23A head on it because you want a head with a combustion chamber diameter of 87mm, but that's the only special consideration I would give it assuming it has been verified to be a good build. Don't just assume everything on Craigslist is junk. I sell things on Craigslist and I'm an honest person that won't sell something if it would disadvantage the buyer. I don't want to be lumped into that category because a few people have a had a bad experience. Be an intelligent buyer and make your decision based off of facts and value. Not because someone somewhere else got screwed.

[92accord ex]

thanks for all the help guy i appricate it

[toycar]

I have bought several motors on CL before. What I generally do is
1.) Check the condition of the motor in general, does it look like it was leaking oil, take the oil cap off and check for sludge in the head area.
2.) I pull the spark plugs, and look to see if it is running too lean/rich.
3.) If the tranny(With starter) is still attached to the motor, use jumper cables to the starter and test the compression. (With all the spark plugs out so the motor doesn't jump all over the place) If not still do a compression test but manually turn the motor over.

If it is just the lower end, always turn it over (if it has pistions) and make sure there is not scruff marks on the piston walls that could cause leaking.

Other than that I generally just like to turn the motor over to make sure nothing is binding and it turns easily.

I bought a f22a6 a couple weeks ago that the guy said it ran fine. I tore it apart to do a valve grind, rings and bearing done to just to make sure it will last me another 200k and there was literally 5 butts from his cigs on the pistons. Then again I am one of those guys who just pulled his h22a out to put on CL....


First post... cherry popped.

All good points.

Jarrett;

Not trying to throw people like you in the barrel. Just pointing out that for piece of mind purposes, any builder is going to want to check things for themselves. The rod/piston combo has been proven, your right. That doesn't mean the wrist pins were installed correctly, the rings are assembled or installed correctly, the clearances are correct or the block was bored correctly.

To buy all those "what ifs" I would want a better price then the $650. For that money, plus a little more you could easily find a complete running h22 motor with manifolds and all.

That's all I was pointing out. From my experience, 90% of people that claim to have done the mechanical work correctly, in fact did not.

That's why I always do my own work. Nothing personal or disrespectful meant towards anyone; I personally would rather do it right the first time then figure it out the hard way.

Some people really do think they do good work when they really suck at mechanics. It does happen....

[Accord_exR]

not sure how far you are from this but..

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/2799134213.html

[toycar]

That's more like it nice find accord_exr

[92accord ex]

not sure how far you are from this but..

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/2799134213.html

ya thats a really good price but thats a troop from rhode island lol. i think im just going to pick up the motor from jdmtiger.com/ or jdmdepot something like thatt with a motor with low miles and is complete with a warrentey.