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New guy. How do i start to pull the trany out?

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    #1

    New guy. How do i start to pull the trany out?

    Im noob when it comes to cb7's and i bought a 92 accord yesterday with a messed up tranny. i am just wounding if there is any advise that might need before i start taking it about? any suggestions? thanks
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    #2
    auto or manual? either way. drain the fluids first. makes things a little easier...

    but take a look in the diy section. theres several great post in there for tranny swaps. good luck!
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      #3
      manual

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        #4
        It's fairly easy to do... just awkward.

        You didn't specify if it is a manual or automatic (ALWAYS a good idea to let people know what it is you're working with... for future reference...)

        First, drain the tranny. Then:
        Start by breaking both axle nuts loose (36mm, I believe... get a strong breaker bar and a pipe, or use an impact gun... those suckers are on there!)
        Loosen the axle nuts, jack up the car, remove the nuts, pop the lower ball joints out (carefully) and swing the knuckle out. Yank out the axles, being careful not to separate the joints. If you separate the joints, replace the axles. If the boots are ripped, replace the axles. If the ball joint boots are ripped, replace the ball joints.

        Remove the intermediate shaft from the back of the block.

        Now remove the lower crossmember and radius rods (just the passenger side radius rod needs to be moved, but i always find it easier to remove the entire unit.)

        Back up top... remove the starter, shift linkage, reverse sensor, and VSS. Undo the 2 bolts on the slave cylinder. You don't need to disconnect the hydraulic lines from the slave, unless you want to replace the hydraulic components (never a bad idea.)

        Next, put something soft on a jack under the oil pan (I used a good book). You will be lowering the engine slightly, and you want to support it so it doesn't snap a mount. Once the jack is secure, remove the transmission mount. Then loosen the bolts holding the driver's side mount to the frame. You'll want to lower the entire engine an inch or so, so loosen it enough to do that. Now, VERY GENTLY lower the engine with the jack. This is necessary to make the transmission clear the fenderwell when you pull it out.

        Now you can get to work removing transmission bolts. I always start at the bottom, leaving the top bolt (most easily accessible) for last. That bolt will hold the transmission in place until you can remove it.
        I always have someone helping me... and since I'm a relatively big guy, I make them get under the car. Undo that final bolt with a helper under the car, grab the tranny securely by the starter hole while your friend supports the bottom, and slide it out. There are a few dowel pins (2, I believe) keeping it in place, and the input shaft. You don't want to damage any of that, so pull straight out, carefully. Once it's all clear, lower it, angle it out... and it's done.



        Now, getting it back on can be a bitch. Lining up the splines of the input shaft can be annoying, and that thing gets damn heavy very quickly. Having a third person there to turn the crank while you maneuver it into position seems to work best.




        I haven't done a tranny in 3 years, so I may have missed some details... but that's most of it.






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          #5
          To add to the top I have changed a cb tranny 3 times and from having to hold it by hand to line it up is a pain. So what I did the third time is I used a 3 ton jack placed it where the tranny was and rolled it out with the jack and lifted it back up into place.

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            #6
            Yeah, I've done it with the jack as well. It's much easier with another person, but it's damn near impossible to do it alone without a jack. It CAN be done... but having that jack supporting it underneath while you maneuver it from the top is much easier for sure!






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