Announcement
Collapse
1 of 2
<
>
ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!
Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956
Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
2 of 2
<
>
Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)
Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.
These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
See more
See less
very rough idle
Collapse
X
-
I would check the egr port,fuel injectors,and ports. I had a issue like this on a 89 Camaro V6 2.8 and once i replaced the egr valve it ran mint! Sounds like its trying but chocks
Bought from:AbsurdNY,92smokeaccord,cb7inct,nevi325,xkjnboix,cb 7resurrector,JoshM
MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203451
Comment
-
Checks i have made
What sensors did you have mixed up?
Made sure the IAT sensor was not confused with the IAB connector
Swapped plug wires to a known good working set
Swapped plugs to a known good working set
Fixed the CEL for coolant temperature sensor
Measured resistance on injectors ( im not sure why i did this but they are all 2.6 ohms )
Did a compression test ( just for the fuck of it. All cylinders were from 195-200psi )
Unplugged the vacuum line from the EGR valve while it was running
Swapped IACVs
Bleed the coolant system multiple times
Put more gas in it ( since it was on empty )
checked all main connectors
Adjusted the idle screw
Comment
-
Originally posted by Tippey764 View PostChecks i have made
What sensors did you have mixed up?
Made sure the IAT sensor was not confused with the IAB connector
Swapped plug wires to a known good working set
Swapped plugs to a known good working set
Fixed the CEL for coolant temperature sensor
Measured resistance on injectors ( im not sure why i did this but they are all 2.6 ohms )
Did a compression test ( just for the fuck of it. All cylinders were from 195-200psi )
Unplugged the vacuum line from the EGR valve while it was running
Swapped IACVs
Bleed the coolant system multiple times
Put more gas in it ( since it was on empty )
checked all main connectors
Adjusted the idle screw
some of the ones you mentioned above plus more but i dont remember anymore.........did you check the order of your spark plug wires????
after i fixed and plugged everything right my car was running fine, and it soundd just like yours to
Comment
-
Originally posted by Tippey764 View Postyes i've checked that so many times
Plus the car runs perfect when it revs up
It just has alot of trouble getting to the point of reving up
1 3 4 2 spark plug order and i triple checked it.
but im all out of ideas
Comment
-
This sounds so similar to what happened to my 1991 honda civic. So first let me ask you a few questions:
Where did you buy your engine from? i bought my engine from a shope which specializes in replacement engines(they carry jdm engines) They told me the engines can be dropped in and started with no problems, not to mention warrantied against failure.
was the engine running before you bought it?
is your wiring correct?
So i decided to drop in my engine. i purchased a dual carbed(hand picked)sohc zc. couldnt have chosen a better engine, clean oil, ran clean, low mileage engine and great compression across all cylinders. I managed to install the clutch, flywheel and transmission. So i have the engine completed, bolted to the car, made sure all the wiring was installed etc.
I start the car and it starts! well started up like total SHIT. i was stuck on this..........first of all it had a few check engines to begin with. i had a faulty fuse box, and simple sensors(that shouldnt effect the performance) were unplugged. eh i tried everything! replaced the cap, rotor and even the distributor, car ran super rich to the point it fouled the spark plugs within a half out the car started to puff out black smoke. hmm
replaced ecu's with a dohc zc ecu from a first gen integra, and with both an auto ex ecu and an si ecu. same problems.
doubled checked, triple checked the tps, reset the tps to the correct voltage. SWAPPED out the whole intake manifold after i replaced the intake manifold gasket 3 times(which its very possible to have a warped manifold). made sure the gaskets were scraped off clean. Also swapped out the TB to another one set and tested as working.
finally(stupid me) found out the wires at the map sensor were unplugged(and crossed) because i did a wire tuck, repinned the wires inthe map sensor connections, and reconnected the vaccum lines to the manifold. this solved a bit of the richness, so i would start by making sure your map sensor is working!
also after i sort of killed that big hassle my car ran super shitty and sluggish. I had been stumped, cause first of all i just got my car painted and the freakin richness could possibly mess up my paint. so i decided to check the timing........................i guess the timing was off..............like..ALOT. i reset the timing after i failed to do this the first time.and ca ran like a champ.
so do this, make sure the map sensor is working and plugged in, and double check the timing! i learned my lesson and ill never forget that long few weeks.
also i suggest to everyone to make sure your engines are set to perfect timing before you install the engines, even though these engine distributors claim their engines work. hahaLast edited by mitsubishiv5; 07-11-2011, 02:32 AM.
Comment
-
Originally posted by '93CB7Ex View Postegr. if it runs off idle good, then at idle its shitty, your egr is probably stuck open. or partially open.
Bought from:AbsurdNY,92smokeaccord,cb7inct,nevi325,xkjnboix,cb 7resurrector,JoshM
MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203451
Comment
-
Originally posted by mitsubishiv5 View PostThis sounds so similar to what happened to my 1991 honda civic. So first let me ask you a few questions:
Where did you buy your engine from? i bought my engine from a shope which specializes in replacement engines(they carry jdm engines) They told me the engines can be dropped in and started with no problems, not to mention warrantied against failure.
was the engine running before you bought it?
is your wiring correct?
So i decided to drop in my engine. i purchased a dual carbed(hand picked)sohc zc. couldnt have chosen a better engine, clean oil, ran clean, low mileage engine and great compression across all cylinders. I managed to install the clutch, flywheel and transmission. So i have the engine completed, bolted to the car, made sure all the wiring was installed etc.
I start the car and it starts! well started up like total SHIT. i was stuck on this..........first of all it had a few check engines to begin with. i had a faulty fuse box, and simple sensors(that shouldnt effect the performance) were unplugged. eh i tried everything! replaced the cap, rotor and even the distributor, car ran super rich to the point it fouled the spark plugs within a half out the car started to puff out black smoke. hmm
replaced ecu's with a dohc zc ecu from a first gen integra, and with both an auto ex ecu and an si ecu. same problems.
doubled checked, triple checked the tps, reset the tps to the correct voltage. SWAPPED out the whole intake manifold after i replaced the intake manifold gasket 3 times(which its very possible to have a warped manifold). made sure the gaskets were scraped off clean. Also swapped out the TB to another one set and tested as working.
finally(stupid me) found out the wires at the map sensor were unplugged(and crossed) because i did a wire tuck, repinned the wires inthe map sensor connections, and reconnected the vaccum lines to the manifold. this solved a bit of the richness, so i would start by making sure your map sensor is working!
also after i sort of killed that big hassle my car ran super shitty and sluggish. I had been stumped, cause first of all i just got my car painted and the freakin richness could possibly mess up my paint. so i decided to check the timing........................i guess the timing was off..............like..ALOT. i reset the timing after i failed to do this the first time.and ca ran like a champ.
so do this, make sure the map sensor is working and plugged in, and double check the timing! i learned my lesson and ill never forget that long few weeks.
also i suggest to everyone to make sure your engines are set to perfect timing before you install the engines, even though these engine distributors claim their engines work. haha
The motor looks to be in great shape but sat for AWHILE. There was alot of oil sluge in the oil pan. I dropped the oil pan and the windage tray and cleaned out as much as i could before i installed it. Most of the sludge was at the bottom anyways because any bit of oil that could already had dripped to the pan.
I installed the engine with everything hooked up even the wiring harness.
I also swapped the f20a intake manifold for an f22a6 runners / h23a1 plenum hybrid intake manifold that i had spent lots of time opening up the EGR port plugs and cleaning them out as well as any carbon build up within the intake manifold.
While installing it i actually did notice the wires were damaged on the egr valve. I went to swap the f20a egr valve but noticed it had been smashed and no longer opened up. When i went to take off the little metal clip i found out the top black part comes off with the wires attached so i swapped it to my unsmashed EGR valve. everything went together well im pretty sure. Is the EGR valve normally
I have 0 check engine lights on as well. Although there is a code stored for the egr valve ( code 12 ).
The map sensor is hooked up as well but i guess i will need to make sure it still works. Its located in this stupid ass black box on the firewall in the accord which is a pain in the ass to get back together if you open it up.
Originally posted by '93CB7Ex View Postegr. if it runs off idle good, then at idle its shitty, your egr is probably stuck open. or partially open.Originally posted by markrutherford View PostLike i said EGR Valve my dude! Change it with a new one or a known good used one. It will make a world of difference
Comment
-
Originally posted by Ralphie View PostMay be a stupid suggestion, but is the gas good?
I saw you said you put more in but was it fresh?
And even though it might have been new from the station it could have been bad from the get go.
Ive had bad gas before and it represents itself like that.
Just a suggestion!
And yes the gas i added was brand new gas from the gas station. The car is in a very heavily populated area so im sure the gas has not sat around while either.
Comment
Comment