Cam swap

[dj_ender]

I had a couple questions about doing a cam swap. I've been looking for a diy but have had no luck, so if theres a link, that would be great. The quetion I have is, is there a easy way to change out the cam WITHOUT removing the lower timing cover? Skunk2 did a vid of a 5 or 10 minute cam swap in a k24 where the only had to remove the valve cover and I believe the upper timing cover. The used a tack to secure the tensioner and held the belt from moving while removing the cam and then replacing the girddle and everything stayed where its supposed to. I'm assuming the same can be done in a f22 sans the tack in the tensioner, but I don't know. If anyone else has tried it this way, any help would be helpful and appreciated. And I've seen on here a common cam swap is an a6, is there much to be gained going this route? Thanks in advance.

[jdm92_accorn]

bro the a6 cam isnt worth it. go with a regrind from bisi. the level 2 can be used without changing valve springs. also with two sets of hands you can change it without taking off the lower cover but i do not recommend it. best thing is to go ahead and just change the cam when you do the timing belt.

[evil_demon_01]

I had a couple questions about doing a cam swap. I've been looking for a diy but have had no luck, so if theres a link, that would be great. The quetion I have is, is there a easy way to change out the cam WITHOUT removing the lower timing cover? Skunk2 did a vid of a 5 or 10 minute cam swap in a k24 where the only had to remove the valve cover and I believe the upper timing cover. The used a tack to secure the tensioner and held the belt from moving while removing the cam and then replacing the girddle and everything stayed where its supposed to. I'm assuming the same can be done in a f22 sans the tack in the tensioner, but I don't know. If anyone else has tried it this way, any help would be helpful and appreciated. And I've seen on here a common cam swap is an a6, is there much to be gained going this route? Thanks in advance.

The K24 doesn't have an upper an lower cover, Just one sealed cover.

You can change the cam without removing the lower cover, providing you ensure you don't move the crank while doing the swap.

Have you ever replaced a cambelt before? If you havn't then I'd highly suggest you remove the lower cover so you can see the belt is fitted properly upon re-installation.

[dj_ender]

bro the a6 cam isnt worth it. go with a regrind from bisi. the level 2 can be used without changing valve springs. also with two sets of hands you can change it without taking off the lower cover but i do not recommend it. best thing is to go ahead and just change the cam when you do the timing belt.

Yeah thats pretty much what I was thinking, the reason I asked about the a6 was because I was assuming I could get one way cheaper than a stage 2 Bisi. I was looking at their (Bisi) website last night on the stage 2, I like that the rpm starts out low (1500) and stretches thru the whole power band. I was just curious if the benefits of the a6 would be worth it to get a cheaper cam, will probably go with the Bisi. I feel good enough about trying this method, just curious if it was possible like the vid showed on the k24.

[deevergote]

Unless your timing belt is already brand new, i wouldn't trust an old belt with a performance cam. You may save yourself a few steps short-term, but if the belt slips or breaks, the damage will be far more costly and time consuming to repair!

The K24 uses a timing chain, which is much less likely to snap when reused.


The F22A6 makes 15hp over the F22A1 (in perfect condition.) The A6 gets that power mainly from the cam, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and ECU... so realistically, 5hp is pretty much all you'd see from the cam, I'd expect (that's just a guess.) Especially since the cam and valvetrain components will already have 20 years of wear on them.

Bisimoto cams are affordable, but they're not cheap. However, Bisi has designed them to work best for the engine, and he understands the F22 better than just about anyone. A cheaper route would be a Delta regrind. They have a decent reputation, though the grinds are pretty generic compared to Bisi's.

[dj_ender]

The K24 doesn't have an upper an lower cover, Just one sealed cover.

You can change the cam without removing the lower cover, providing you ensure you don't move the crank while doing the swap.

Have you ever replaced a cambelt before? If you havn't then I'd highly suggest you remove the lower cover so you can see the belt is fitted properly upon re-installation.

Sorry, its been awhile since I saw the vid, thought there were 2. Now I remember, they took off an access panel to reach the tensioner. No I have never changed a cam belt, but I will be the one holding the belt tight, and having someone else set the cam in place. I'm sure it will be fun and adventurous, it was fun pulling my intake just to clean it. The shitty part was when I started get idle surge because I forgot about the bolt on the passenger side underneath the manifold, it was a bitch to find. Thanks for your guys input.

[dj_ender]

Unless your timing belt is already brand new, i wouldn't trust an old belt with a performance cam. You may save yourself a few steps short-term, but if the belt slips or breaks, the damage will be far more costly and time consuming to repair!

The K24 uses a timing chain, which is much less likely to snap when reused.


The F22A6 makes 15hp over the F22A1 (in perfect condition.) The A6 gets that power mainly from the cam, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and ECU... so realistically, 5hp is pretty much all you'd see from the cam, I'd expect (that's just a guess.) Especially since the cam and valvetrain components will already have 20 years of wear on them.

Bisimoto cams are affordable, but they're not cheap. However, Bisi has designed them to work best for the engine, and he understands the F22 better than just about anyone. A cheaper route would be a Delta regrind. They have a decent reputation, though the grinds are pretty generic compared to Bisi's.

Yeah I was pretty much assuming the belt would need replaced, just REALLY didnt want to have to open up the cover and do the full job, but alas it will need to be done. Now from my understanding regrinds are just that, stock cams reground to different specs. So I would essentially be getting my own cam back with just a different grind, or am I totally wrong and I get a totally new cam? And yes I know I have to send them a cam first.

[deevergote]

It may not be YOUR cam, but yes, it is a reground stock cam. I believe material may be added as needed for the desired profile. I'm not sure on the specifics.

[dj_ender]

It may not be YOUR cam, but yes, it is a reground stock cam. I believe material may be added as needed for the desired profile. I'm not sure on the specifics.

Yeah see I was curious about that, I would assume a stage 2 cam would have bigger lobs and longer duration, the "regrind" threw me off. I would assume that they would be taking off material, not adding it, this is good info thanks. Does anyone have said cam in their fairly stock ride? I know it says 20% increase, is it a significant increase as far as the butt dyno goes? And hows the idle?

[jdm92_accorn]

i had the v1 level 2 with bolt-ons and a ported head and made 171whp ,162wtq. idled at 900 and sounded almost stock but deeper. the new level 2's are a better design. it sounded similar to this. this cam is my custom grind idling at 900 but my old cam sounded like this at 750.

[dj_ender]

i had the v1 level 2 with bolt-ons and a ported head and made 171whp ,162wtq. idled at 900 and sounded almost stock but deeper. the new level 2's are a better design. it sounded similar to this. this cam is my custom grind idling at 900 but my old cam sounded like this at 750.

Nice sound, thanks for the numbers. I think I'll be getting the Bisi hopefully in about 2 months, did you change your springs like they suggest or did you run the stock ones? Now for a total noob question, along with this cam I plan to do an H23 IM, I don't need a new ECU for this right? That would only be if I use the head right? And with these 2 upgrades all I need to do is adjust the valves and retime it, right? I dont need a ECU tune do I? Man I can already see the money amount climbing... lol

[jdm92_accorn]

actually you can pick up a chipped p06 for $200 or less. you dont have to change the springs, i didnt until i ported my head and drove 2yrs i think before then. as far as the h23 intake manifold i recommend a omni power 68mm throttle body($100 ish), port match the upper plentum to the throttle body, and a bisi heat shielding gasket ($50 ish). i recommend getting it tuned to make the most of that cam.
here is before and after the cam before the head work

[Bravo-man]

actually you can pick up a chipped p06 for $200 or less. you dont have to change the springs, i didnt until i ported my head and drove 2yrs i think before then. as far as the h23 intake manifold i recommend a omni power 68mm throttle body($100 ish), port match the upper plentum to the throttle body, and a bisi heat shielding gasket ($50 ish). i recommend getting it tuned to make the most of that cam.
here is before and after the cam before the head work

Looks gd man but a/f looks a little low have you got that fix yet.

[dj_ender]

actually you can pick up a chipped p06 for $200 or less. you dont have to change the springs, i didnt until i ported my head and drove 2yrs i think before then. as far as the h23 intake manifold i recommend a omni power 68mm throttle body($100 ish), port match the upper plentum to the throttle body, and a bisi heat shielding gasket ($50 ish). i recommend getting it tuned to make the most of that cam.
here is before and after the cam before the head work

??? Sorry I got a little lost. I don't need the ECU, or do I, that part wasn't answered so I'm confused why your suggesting it. Yeah luckily they got a dyno right down the street from my house, so I might have to go down and make friends. And since you bring up the ECU, is it a direct plug in play type thing AFTER I get it chipped for my car. I havent read up much on ECU swaps and tuning, so this is outside of what I know. Thanks for the suggestions in the h23!

[Bravo-man]

I think it was with out ecu cause if it was tune I don't think his a/f would have been that low.