p12 auto ecu into manual car

[2283kdogg]

soo i cleaned all the sensors around the intake real good..egr ect..all three..and the erradic idle stoped alot..does it very little...

my p12 is off a auto and i have manual..my bro was saying we can fix this by getting a fpr because we can tune the gas and air just right and it will be near perfect and idle good.without the feathering form 1000rpm to 1300.

anybody have experience with this?? and does his idea sound good/logical?

thanks.

[visualpoet]

OR, you could adjust the FITV. There are literally hundreds of threads on here about erratic idle, I don't think an FPR is the reccomendation for any of them. When I swapped my pt3 for the p12 I got the erratic idle, cleaned and tightened down the disk inside the FITV (I believe it's the FITV, I always get the two mixed up. It's on the right side of the IM, if you open it up and there's a slotted whitish colored plastic disk it's the right one, turn the disk clockwise until it's snug, put the top back on and start her up.) and it went away.

#8 in the diagram.

[The_Head]

I think I remember reading how it doesnt matter about what kind of ECU it is because there is a separate TCU running the transmission.

[deevergote]

The automatic ECU is supposed to give a bit extra fuel at the shift point. It should have nothing at all to do with idle.

[2283kdogg]

OR, you could adjust the FITV. There are literally hundreds of threads on here about erratic idle, I don't think an FPR is the reccomendation for any of them. When I swapped my pt3 for the p12 I got the erratic idle, cleaned and tightened down the disk inside the FITV (I believe it's the FITV, I always get the two mixed up. It's on the right side of the IM, if you open it up and there's a slotted whitish colored plastic disk it's the right one, turn the disk clockwise until it's snug, put the top back on and start her up.) and it went away.

#8 in the diagram.

did that bro..and yea it worked alot...it almost perfect...but my friend said he can fine tune it and get the air and fuel pressure just right to make it run good..just want yours guys opinion on that..

[2283kdogg]

The automatic ECU is supposed to give a bit extra fuel at the shift point. It should have nothing at all to do with idle.

true...when i shift it does go a lil higher than normal..not a big difference...but yea..

[visualpoet]

It's your ride, how knowledgable is your friend? Would you trust him with your engine? Personally, very few people get to touch my car with a tool. And then only after they've proven their ability and knowledge on someone else's ride.

[2283kdogg]

It's your ride, how knowledgable is your friend? Would you trust him with your engine? Personally, very few people get to touch my car with a tool. And then only after they've proven their ability and knowledge on someone else's ride.

lol..hes like 58..and fabricates and ect..hes a wise old fart..
soo i think hes right..lol.ill give it a try and see wat happens then i ll post results..thanks anyways guys..

[2283kdogg]

I didn't bother reading the rules, so now I'm banned.

[KeeleDesign]

^^^^^ I'm curious what was posted here.

To clear up a few things, everyone might not have realized.

Automatics are different cars than their 5 spd counterpart. Not just because they have a Different transmission.

Most automatic side versions, have different throttle bodies, sometimes the intake manifold it's self is shaped differently. Along with the exhaust manifold and exhaust. Even injector sizing could be diffeent, along with the fuel pressure as most auto's have higher pressure. With these different changes most the time the ECU is also calibrated to compensate for these changes.

Meaning the deadtime on your injector pulse time width is increased so they stay open longer or shorter amounts of time, depending on fuel pressure. This is what controls your idle in automatics, either making them purrrr or become super lopey as if it were cammed.
In practice, the ecu could mess your 5 spd idle up along with low-mid-WOT LTFT.

lo LTFT and mid LTFT (Long term Fuel Trims) could actualy give you alot worse gas milage, After a long period of time your ecu will try and compensate till it reaches it's target A/F ratio, from the readings it gets from the narrow band o2 sensor.
But it will have difficult time doing so, if it can at all, because if your pulse width deadtime isn't set correctly, It's going to continue to throw it off and it'll try and start over and over.

Most Autos need the extra amount of fuel at idle and between shifts so that it will increase the actual amount of torque once shifted, and to keep the Airflowperrev in it's proper range. Not to mention timing on a automatic is drastically different than a 5 spd.
Their low rpm's have a considerable timing curve so that it's less stress on the torque converter to build up pressure. Not to forget the TCU tells the ECU to reduce timing up to 11-14 degrees when shifting, just to save anything from being damaged, like watered down gas being in your car creating knock. Yes knock even on a 8:8:1 compression.
Without a TCU present the ECU will automatically retard the timing constantly without throwing a CEL light, because it's counterpart TCU isn't sending a signal at all.
For Automatic owners, my KDIShift box will keep your ecu from retarding your timing between shifts and allowing for a major power gain because of this. Good gas and nothing will be hurt.

Lost my train of thought, if it comes back I'll add more to rap this up.
Edit: this seems like it should go somewhere more important than this thread. why do I do that.

[KeeleDesign]

so needless to say, even if your banned, this could be part of your problem.

[deevergote]

He'll be back to read it in a week, unless he decided to make another name to bypass the ban (in which he'll be gone for good.)

Still, that's useful information for anyone that's smart enough to search in the future (which is maybe 10% of noobs...)