F22a1 fully built?

[deevergote]

$1,000-$1,500? That won't get you very close at all.
Counting upgrades only (no seals, gaskets, etc... anything that's more restoration than upgrading, which is necessary for a modified engine to be reliable) then you'll be looking at maybe 160-170whp tops, depending on what mods you choose to do.

The Bisimoto header will add about 27whp, perhaps a bit more when combined with other mods. That will run $900 or so. That is probably the biggest gain you'll be able to get without a bunch of other necessary modifications (once you open the motor, a lot of things have to be replaced together, and that adds up quite quickly.) A camshaft would be the next logical step, though only the Stage 1 camshaft would be safe to use with the stock valve springs... anything more, you'll want to upgrade those. A tunable P06 ECU, properly tuned for YOUR setup, would be next. Find a good tuner that will tune the ECU for cheap, and those things would probably put you right around your $1,500 max.



However, keep in mind that a stock H22A makes about 165whp... so if you're making my estimate, you'll be hanging with the H22 swapped guys. Not too bad, but you'll still be far from 250whp.

If you want 250whp on a $1,500 budget, look into a DSM turbo setup... Plan carefully, shop wisely, and do your research so you don't blow anything up. Done properly, you can make 250whp or so for that small amount of money... but something will give out sooner or later.

[Rayz91]

[QUOTE=deevergote;2814192]$1,000-$1,500? That won't get you very close at all.
Counting upgrades only (no seals, gaskets, etc... anything that's more restoration than upgrading, which is necessary for a modified engine to be reliable) then you'll be looking at maybe 160-170whp tops, depending on what mods you choose to do.

The Bisimoto header will add about 27whp, perhaps a bit more when combined with other mods. That will run $900 or so.........

OK. I was looking at the site and didnt know what was right to use. Im tryin to learn before i go putting parts in. I wanted to know from a pro.

im back to the h swap. Thank you

[deevergote]

I'm hardly a pro. I've actually never modified an F22A in my life.

Your best bet would be to contact Bisimoto directly and see what they have to say, if the F22A interests you.

ANY N/A build is going to be expensive, though. Even the H22 is going to take a bit of money to get over 200whp.

You have the right idea, though. Research all options before you buy a part, or turn a wrench. You'll save yourself a lot of headaches and unnecessary expenses that way!

[Drifting in 808]

for 1500 bucks you can pick up a used h22a that will give u 197hp, depending on what one you get.

[deevergote]

He knows that. I assume that's why the H swap was his original plan. However, this thread is not about the H22.

[visualpoet]

If you're running a five speed:
cheaply:
skip the Bisi header(Although you can get a prototype from Bisi for less than the cheapest finished product), go with a decent header and a full exhaust, SRI, A6/H23 mani/plenum/TB, Bisi Heats shielding IM gasket, a stage one cam and a tuned p06, you should be able to break the 165whp mark for your money: assuming the engine is still strong and solid. Watch craigslist and ebay for parts you need. I got my entire Spyder 60mm stainless exhaust for trading my OEM exhaust.

A little more pricey, but probably a little more quick as well:
SRI, a6/h23 combo, Bisi heat shielding IM gasket, Bisi header, full exhaust and a tuned p06. That should get you pretty close as well.

The Bisi header is going to be much more bolt on power (both in terms of actual numbers AND hp for dollar ratio) than a stage one or two cam, plus the stage two cam is going to need stronger springs and retainers for reliabilty.

If you want to know what almost 500 N/A whp sounds like from an f22a, check youtube for Bisi's Insight. That is not a DD powerplant, and has over $10K in parts, not counting research and labor.

[visualpoet]

for 1500 bucks you can pick up a used h22a that will give u 197hp, depending on what one you get.

That's also at the crank, not the wheels. It makes a big difference.

[deevergote]

Stock H22A power is attainable on the F22A for about the same price as an H22A swap. The only real benefit to the H22A is the fact that it can remain a bit more daily-driver friendly at a slightly higher level of horsepower. A 220whp H22A would be a bit more forgiving on the street than a 220whp F22A.

[visualpoet]

Stock H22A power is attainable on the F22A for about the same price as an H22A swap. The only real benefit to the H22A is the fact that it can remain a bit more daily-driver friendly at a slightly higher level of horsepower. A 220whp H22A would be a bit more forgiving on the street than a 220whp F22A.

How ya figure?
Is the 220 hp H going to be less torquey in the bottom end until VTEC kicks in?

Not smartass, curiousity.

[gloryaccordy]

H23 short block
H22A1 pistons
F22A head
H23A1 intake manifold
Bisimoto header + cam
2.5 or 3" exhaust

Good money

[gloryaccordy]

I dont know about no damn 220WHP streetable F but a 170WHP one, with its insides touched, definitely doable

[deevergote]

How ya figure?
Is the 220 hp H going to be less torquey in the bottom end until VTEC kicks in?

Not smartass, curiousity.

The F22A cam profile would have to be fairly extreme. Nothing too crazy, but it would make the power up high, meaning the bottom end would be a bit soggy. I do most of my driving between 2k and 3k RPM... and I'm quite certain the F22A at 220whp wouldn't be in its powerband in that range. I doubt there are many people on here that rev to 5k rpm when they're just running out to McDonald's.

The H22A, assuming it is still running VTEC cams (add VTEC-killer cams, and it's no different than the F22A scenario), would have a much more forgiving low end for daily driving, while still having the ability to make 220whp up high.

H23 short block
H22A1 pistons
F22A head
H23A1 intake manifold
Bisimoto header + cam
2.5 or 3" exhaust

Good money

The head would need to be modified to fit the block, or you're looking at a serious potential for detonation due to the difference in bore/combustion chamber diameters. Honestly, that extra .1L wouldn't be THAT much of a benefit to justify the risk of building a hybrid. Especially for a beginner. It'd be better to properly build the F22A bottom end.

I dont know about no damn 220WHP streetable F but a 170WHP one, with its insides touched, definitely doable

I'm using 220whp as a basis for comparison, not anyone's particular goal.

[Rayz91]

Whoa. Everytime i think i know something. I like the h for what deeve said about the dd idea. When i give my moms a ride to work or my nephew, or drive in the rain its not gonna be crazy. But if someone pipes me i can throw down. I dont really what to start taking the head and bottem end apart. Im not ready for that. This is my only car. I can do the h swap in a weeken at my buddies garage. Then move on to building that. The cam you mentioned and tb spacer and header with the 3" exhaust. Im just looking to get a nice clean cb like you guys. Thanx again for helpjn me make the right choices.

[Julio@Bisimoto]

Lots of back and forth action going on lol. Either way I can help you with go fast parts with either the F or H

[visualpoet]

The F22A cam profile would have to be fairly extreme. Nothing too crazy, but it would make the power up high, meaning the bottom end would be a bit soggy. I do most of my driving between 2k and 3k RPM... and I'm quite certain the F22A at 220whp wouldn't be in its powerband in that range. I doubt there are many people on here that rev to 5k rpm when they're just running out to McDonald's.

The H22A, assuming it is still running VTEC cams (add VTEC-killer cams, and it's no different than the F22A scenario), would have a much more forgiving low end for daily driving, while still having the ability to make 220whp up high.

I see what you're saying, but I really don't think the F would be that soggy at regular driving. By that line of reasoning, the 125 hp F should fall on it's face as a DD. More power in the upper range usually means more power in the lower range as well. You rarely see an N/A dyno sheet where the "after" line crosses the baseline in the low end. A Bisi Level 3 powerband comes on at 3000, and it can't be too sluggish below that. A little lopey, but certainly responsive enough to DD after you'd had a few minutes to get used to it and to make you're foot forget how heavy it is.

The H isn't in it's powerband around 2k-3k by any means, you gotta open it up and ride the big lobes, whereas the F would always be on the big lobes. I think the difference in the hp curve would be interesting to compare, but I don't think that it would really be that difficult to drive.

I doubt there are many people on here that rev to 5k rpm when they're just running out to McDonald's.

o.0 C'mon... You know damn well there are probably at least 200 people on here doing just that. EVERY time they drive their car. Not necessarily regular members, but still, just sayin'...