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Faulty ECU ??

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    Faulty ECU ??

    So my swap is finally done , well until I ran into this problem : I started my H22 up for the first time today and everything sounded perfect . Took it on the road and it wouldn't rev pass 4000 RPM . Took it back to my mechanic to make sure he had VTEC wired in correctly and he did . I'm running a chipped P28 ECU so I'm guessing it's a bad tune ?? The CEL is on .

    #2
    How's the timing?

    1993 Honda Accord LX 2004-2009
    1996 Honda Civic LX 2009-2012
    2012 Kia Optima LX 2012-2013
    2010 Honda Accord EX-L V6 2013-2018
    2007 Honda Fit Sport 2017-2017
    2018 Honda Accord EX-L 2.0T 2018-20XX






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      #3
      Timing is good . Mechanic replaces all belts , seals , and water pump while motor was out . Also did the H23 Manual Tensioner conversion .

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        #4
        Check the ECU code and see what it is.

        1993 Honda Accord LX 2004-2009
        1996 Honda Civic LX 2009-2012
        2012 Kia Optima LX 2012-2013
        2010 Honda Accord EX-L V6 2013-2018
        2007 Honda Fit Sport 2017-2017
        2018 Honda Accord EX-L 2.0T 2018-20XX






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          #5
          Yes, if the CEL is on, it is giving you an error code. That is telling you what is wrong.


          As for the chipped P28... if it wasn't tuned for YOUR engine, you shouldn't be running it.






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            #6
            Ok well I have to send the ECU back , just gonna have them send me a P13 . But I really need to get the car out of his shop to have some things done by Wednesday ! He say's it's not safe to drive with the ECU in limp mode so can I just put the PT3 back in and drive it like that ?? I know I wont be hitting VTEC but right now I just really need the car moving !!

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              #7
              I agree with deev, if you've got a chip, you need to make sure your ECU is tuned specifically for your engine..

              Try checking for codes. If you don't already know how to do so, just find the connector sticking out of the ECU behind the passenger kick panel and jump it. The CEL will flash with the key in the ON position.
              1991 HONDA ACCORD EX COUPE
              2014 Volvo XC70 T6 AWD ----- 2000 Honda Odyssey LX
              2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S ------ 1994 Toyota Corolla DX
              2001 Subaru Outback --------- 1990 Infiniti M30

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                #8
                So can I drive with the PT3 for like a day or two and just go easy on it ??

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by mjsstanley View Post
                  So can I drive with the PT3 for like a day or two and just go easy on it ??
                  I wouldn't. Its not tuned for the H22s larger injectors. You would constantly be running lean which will most likely mess something up.

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                    #10
                    Well can I drive it with the P28 in "Limp Mode" for one day and take it to a tuner shop to have it tuned for the motor ?? I really need the car out of his shop !!

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                      #11
                      I have driven my cb7 in limp mode for months at one time Like you said, just go easy on it, it won't break the motor by the ecu not allowing all systems to work, an engine is still an engine without an ecu, it will still go forward.

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                        #12
                        You can drive it just fine on the PT3 for a short time. Just don't rev very high. Shift at 3000rpm or so, and never floor it. It won't run correctly, but it will run. I'd feel safer on a PT3 than a chipped P28 in limp mode.

                        However, you're still assuming the ECU is bad... pull your codes. Whatever is putting that P28 in limp mode may very well put the PT3 in limp mode. That CEL isn't telling you it's a bad ECU, it's telling you something else is bad, and the ECU is doing its job by reporting it to you. Read the code and fix that problem, or you may end up with a damaged engine.






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                          #13
                          Well Deev thats the thing : with the PT3 in , there's no check engine light at all . With the P28 in the check engine light is solid . Even when we tried to pull codes out of it , it wouldn't flash , it just stayed solid . Also , a buddy of mine with a chipped P28 in his Civic put his ECU in and the car drove fine , hit VTEC with no problem .

                          So I contacted the company that I got the ECU from and the guy said he never got an email on what setup I had and what proper basemap to use . So basically the idiots sent me a blank chip . But I have Eprom Chip Basemap on the way now and hopefully that will solve the problem .

                          I decided to leave the car at my mechanic's shop because with the PT3 , it didn't wanna idle after the engine was warm and it didn't have much power with the P28 .

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Yeah, if the CEL is solid, the ECU is bad... or if the chip was blank, that's entirely possible.

                            Even with a basemap, I wouldn't drive the car until you actually have it tuned. Basemaps aren't for driving, they're just to get the car running to be tuned.

                            It also seems to me that the company you got the ECU from is pretty shady, if they would send you something like that without even asking what it's for. Hopefully that ECU didn't cause any damage to the engine...

                            A P28 is a stock Civic ECU. Quite easy to find in junkyards, ebay, etc... I could get one in a local junkyard for $15. A chipping kit runs about $20-$25. I really hope you didn't pay an arm and a leg for that ECU...






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                              #15
                              Woww I paid $175 for that ECU and now to get the chip over-nighted is $60 . This entire swap has just been a nightmare for me .

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