sleeves

[deevergote]

I believe accord_sir is making over 600 with the stock H22A cams. I may be wrong, though.

[Youngill726]

he also recommend me to get a h22 head and ill make way more power but i already to a/c and p/s out to make way for the ramhorn. ill have to ask how is he drivability with 600hp and what problem pose him.

[russell707]

im talking to the person who made this thread, who else would i be talking to? stop being a dick are u bored or something? because we can about turtles i love turtles

[deevergote]

he also recommend me to get a h22 head and ill make way more power but i already to a/c and p/s out to make way for the ramhorn. ill have to ask how is he drivability with 600hp and what problem pose him.

Who told you to get an H22 head? The H22 head on a mismatched block really won't make any additional power. You can easily make more power than you'll be able to put down with any fully built H or F engine.

im talking to the person who made this thread, who else would i be talking to? stop being a dick are u bored or something? because we can about turtles i love turtles

The person who made this thread was not talking about an F22A block. Nobody here was. It has absolutely no relevance to this conversation whatsoever. Am I bored? No, I am actively participating in this conversation, sharing useful information... not posting worthless off-topic information because it's all that you know. Stop trying to whore up your post count, shut up, and read. Learn a thing or two, and then share your knowledge.

[lordoja]

umm i was just telling him that? problem here? wasnt even talkin to u bro

You weren't really talking to anybody, since nobody was talking about what you were talking about... "bro". Do you care to share your opinion on turtles as well? I mean... since we're on unrelated topics.

im talking to the person who made this thread, who else would i be talking to? stop being a dick are u bored or something? because we can about turtles i love turtles

Russel707, you must have caught deev in a good mood, or he's too lazy to ban you... and yes you are talking about the wrong subject on the wrong thread, the OP asked about H23 but thats been said too many times here... in the first post... and i love turtles too they taste awesome and the shells make awesome candy bowls.

I don't see a 3.6 cam option for the H23 on Bisi's site. You must be looking for some crazy power going with cams like that! Honestly, I wouldn't get a full race cam for a DD. You'll hate it. At least I know I would! However, I don't think I would ever want more than 300whp from a FWD street car either... that's just too much power to put down to the ground!

i think given the power/weight ratio should stick to no more than 300hp, i was going to buy this guy's Del Sol that was pushing 450hp and it was stupid to drive on the street.
i saw some darton sleeves for 250 in a shop here in San Diego, i'll go later and ask about them, and let you know the specs.

also if you want to keep the p/s i know that someone mated the MR2 MKII electric P/S pump to a lude, so im sure that it wouldn't be that hard to do to a CB7

[deevergote]

The sleeves themselves are quite inexpensive. It's the labor to get them put in that costs.

And yeah... not so much power to weight, but FWD. It's hard to put down massive amounts of power to the front wheels. The front wheels are also the steering wheels. Also, as a car accelerates, the weight shifts to the back... off of the drive wheels. It's far too easy to lose traction with a high-horsepower FWD car, especially when the torque of forced induction is involved (high-hp N/A motors aren't as bad, since the low end power is pretty weak... the power arrives later on, while the car is moving, and not subject to squat.)
On the street, this is a very bad thing. 1) unexpected bumps can cause an unexpected loss of traction, and 2) if you panic and have to smash the gas to move quickly out of danger, the chances are good that you'll just sit there spinning your wheels. I've managed to do that in a 117hp Fit... 300+hp would be even worse!

A RWD car will squat back on the drive wheels, adding the full weight of the car to the wheels that need to bite the ground.

[GhostAccord]

i saw some darton sleeves for 250 in a shop here in San Diego, i'll go later and ask about them, and let you know the specs.

That's a pretty good price for Darton sleeves. They must be the flanged dry sleeves. Race Engineering has them on for $75/cylinder. You could get straight 87mm replacement iron sleeves (Dry) for $50/cylinder. The Darton M.I.D sleeves (Wet) are $690 per set.

[lordoja]

The sleeves themselves are quite inexpensive. It's the labor to get them put in that costs.

And yeah... not so much power to weight, but FWD. It's hard to put down massive amounts of power to the front wheels. The front wheels are also the steering wheels. Also, as a car accelerates, the weight shifts to the back... off of the drive wheels. It's far too easy to lose traction with a high-horsepower FWD car, especially when the torque of forced induction is involved (high-hp N/A motors aren't as bad, since the low end power is pretty weak... the power arrives later on, while the car is moving, and not subject to squat.)
On the street, this is a very bad thing. 1) unexpected bumps can cause an unexpected loss of traction, and 2) if you panic and have to smash the gas to move quickly out of danger, the chances are good that you'll just sit there spinning your wheels. I've managed to do that in a 117hp Fit... 300+hp would be even worse!

A RWD car will squat back on the drive wheels, adding the full weight of the car to the wheels that need to bite the ground.

totally forgot the weight transfer lol

[Youngill726]

that really inexpensive from what i have been looking into. they have been 1200 plus from different sites. yes deev your correct he yold me that ill be able to make the power quicker and easier. i dont wanna go that route due to vtec and like you said mismatched head and block. i really dont wanna have vtec and finding a head for a reasonable price is unheard of.the guy also says that ill be able to run low boost if i wanna drive it daily and turn it up when i wanna run.ill let him point me in the direction to the wet and dry m.i.d sleeves. if they are that cheap where you are then i will be willing to buy from you if you can get them and they are over stock bore. are darton sleeves universal while im trying to beat a price lol? i also like turtles but i hate when i fish and they tie my lines, only way to get them off if a head shot.

[Youngill726]

yes yo right bout the weight transfer i have a v8 i drive daily so now you guys are taking me off my power surge for the longevity of the project. i dont wanna have to go back into the motor as soon as its done.

[blazen_accord]

With a good engine management system and electric boost controller you can run low and high boost setting/map by a flip of an switch/button. For example I run 8psi for normal daily driving plenty enough fun for FWD. Then 15PSI when looking for fun a night by using a toggle switch. SO you get power and drivablility all in one. Many High power engine 500+whp use boost cut by gear/mph to get off the line. It is useless if your crazy power car just spining tires in 1st 2nd 3rd gear. Power need control and deliver to the ground to make good use of it. It completely different driving on track vs street for 500+whp FWD (road material and condition is a major factor) Have fun and good luck on the project.

[Youngill726]

do you ever have problems even minor one, i would like to know what to expect. how many horses are you pushing? thats wh, hat he was telling me about. he never elaborated on how it would be done i just assumed i would have two tunes or so.did you run stock axles and convertor?

[blazen_accord]

my setup is pretty much stock as far as engine and Transmission that has stock LSD. Minor issue here and there (overheating/Cel light/knock sensor...) but nothing major regarding the engine I had a very good tuner. I did replace the stock Transmission which could not handle 400+whp after 1.5 year. I'm happy currently at 317whp/276tq on pump gas it safer and more reliable power that I can drive daily. Beside getting an engine fully buit to support high horse power you also need good engine management system and a great tuner. Picking a good "E.M.S" and getting a good tune is what keeping your built engine from blowing up. And since most of the time you will driving normal not in boost or racing make sure the tuner do a great tune for normal drivability. Or else you have sluggest off boost powerband, terrible gas mpg, failed state emmision test, and kill your cataltic converter. I have seen engine fully built for 50 psi that has melted the piston and punch hole in block in less then 2 week with bad tune or too eager with race with a basic tune/map. Have fun...

[deevergote]

blazen_accord perfected his setup by blowing up motors until he got it right. Never have I met anyone so persistent... but it paid off. That car is a beast! (I got to ride in it )

[Youngill726]

lol i have no intrntions on running it hard when i first get it done just to learn to drive it. Also 50 psi is way more than i intend to boost maybe 20 at the most but even then i will still be kinda weirded out by it. I plan to take it to texas for tuning on hondata s300 and i may even take bisi up on his turbonectics turbo and a.e.m ems since im in the market for a turbo aswell. Most of all i wanna get out of my v8 because of the rise of gas, driving that car it has become a bill. but like deev said it may be safer for me to stay around the 300hp mark since all this is going to be automatic setup. Dave is going to build me a stall.