CV Shaft replacement.

[laloquera]

Hey crew! Just swap out my passenger side cv shaft. Its not my first, been doing them for quite some time. I知 assuming all when well as usual.
I do have multiple issues with my front end. I do have shaking, and tremble ling in my steering Colum. I just had my tires rotated and aligned. So I wont feel it for quite some time.
I知 gonna switch the brake booster cylinder, my brakes don稚 hold while sitting at a red light. Brake pedal will go to the floor and the car will slightly move forward, so I double pump the brakes so that the cylinder will build up pressure with in the braking system.
Look at my front disc pads, GONE!, not much left on them. With this economy, I知 gonna have to save up for my parts. I will probably switch pads all the way around. Imp thinking of doing the rear disc convert ion. I will most likely go with tuff iron/steel disc and avoid the cheap $15 alloy rotors.
Inspected top & bottom ball joint and steering knuckle joint. Also, I inspected the bearing in the hub, it all check out.
The only thing I notice was a torn book on my rack and pinion, notice grease leaking out of it. Inspected tie rods and bushings as well.
Imp gonna monitor this citation till its time to do it again, or Imp thinking of swamping everything out. I know there allot of DIY, for each procedure.
Anyone got any ideas?

[blu35p4rr0w]

Well, it depends really on what you're planning on doing. If you're keeping p/s that's one thing. If not, that's another. If there is dirt in your rack because of the torn boot, that's a problem. if not, just replace the boot. Or if you decided to delete p/s and there was dirt in your rack you can disassemble the rack, clean it out, and convert it to manual. new boots as well.

Basically one boot is about $16 I believe.

If you go the route I'm in the process of finishing that's two boots plus two tubes of grease and a ton of cleaning. Grease is like 4-6$ a tube if I remember correctly.

As far as brake pads, dude, if you have barely any pads, and you're poor like me, just get some cheap pads temporarily. It's better to have cheap pads from autozone than no pads and risk not being able to stop at all. i think they sell some for like 15$. Maybe it's not high quality, maybe it's not good for racing, but it's better to be able to stop some then not stop at all.

I understand completely what you mean by having to save up for parts, I'm makin minimum wage brother, I go without eating just to work on my car. However, some brakes are better than no brakes. Do you really want to risk getting in a wreck and totaling the car, killing someone or yourself, just because you wanted to wait for brakes when you're already having trouble coming to a stop and your pads are DANGEROUSLY low?

[H.M.]

uhhmmmm....put some brake pads on your car and bleed the brakes.

Today.

[copbait]

the ball joints in your upper control arms could be bad. visual inspection doesn't always work. way i found both side of mine were shot was by taking the arms loose of the spindle arm. your could turn the joints with your fingers. this "i assume" was making my car shake b/c they were not tight and totally exhausted after 278,000 miles. swapped them out and problem solved. Suspension is a very important item to check over in a car. A ball joint breaks after a bumpy bridge on the highway at 70 m.p.h, and you got a very serious problem. o yea and fix the brakes today, please don't rear-end me cause you can't stop.

[laloquera]

K guys, I get the picture. Im on it, changing my brake, rotter and booster cylinder.
Upper ball joints, I tested them the same way, i move the balljoint freeley. So, it needs to be tighter? Those things are suppost to be press in, huh?
As for my boot, it starting to sound like a paing in the butt, I stayed up late night to do some reading and research on rack & pinion. Sounds like tricky job, Im gonna opt to changing my boot. Do I repack it with fresh grease?
Anyone?

[copbait]

K guys, I get the picture. Im on it, changing my brake, rotter and booster cylinder.
Upper ball joints, I tested them the same way, i move the balljoint freeley. So, it needs to be tighter? Those things are suppost to be press in, huh?
As for my boot, it starting to sound like a paing in the butt, I stayed up late night to do some reading and research on rack & pinion. Sounds like tricky job, Im gonna opt to changing my boot. Do I repack it with fresh grease?
Anyone?

honestly, im not smart enough to know how to press in a ball joint or replace it so i just bought a new upper control arm for about 90 bucks. came with a lifetime from auto zone. a plus with that, its a new part, no worry about how well of a job is done. i did have the upper ball snap on me at about 35, scary ride. the whole tire was hanging out of the fenderwell and after that i went and got both sides to complete the set. yes it cost a bit but the price of knowing your car is safe is priceless.

[laloquera]

I知 back! Swap out my CV passenger shaft. Took it to get align, ran smooth. But that was last week though. I知 still feel my steering wheel tremble, as my time passes it will become more obvious. I really want to take care of this issue, I dont care if I have to overhual my entire front suspention or steering system.
Anyone?

['93CB7Ex]

are your wheels balanced?

[js593]

Upper ball joints - Not replacable by aftermarket unless you purchase the camber alignment kits. Both MOOG, and Mevotec both carry these. you should replace your complete control arm.

Lower ball joints - replaceable by aftermarket - they must be pressed in.

Master Cylinder (brakes) - Must be bled properly, and all brakes MUST be bled to prevent air in the system. What you described about pressure loss does sound like your M/C is fried, but make sure you have no brake lines that are leaking, that can also cause it.

Brake pads - Get some cheap rotors, and good pads. Wagner Thermoquiet's is what I recommend to ALL of my customers.

[ugafan001]

Not sure if this is any count but i just had my entire front sunspension out an replaced all of above mention parts. Now my brakes had same issue whith going down at times. Brakes where shot as well as rotors. My pedal is fine now but the main problem to this i think was the slide bolt lower only that the caliper rides on was seized up not allowing caliper to release compltely which wore them out. i replaced brackets an bolts off a spare car an greased the ever lovin piss out of them. Now i have no more double pump senerio

[laloquera]

WoW! Thanks for all the great feed back. Yeah, Ive been driving my car now for about three weeks and posibly going on the forth week. Im aird up my tires to 40 psi, its abit smoother, but that tremple is still notacible. My wife notice also when she drives my cb7. Oh! One thing I did notice, one of my boots on the rack and pinion (passanger side) is tourn. Found a good sticky on replacing the boot.
My tires are re balanced.
Replacing my control arms, thats a new one. Got to do the research on this.
Camber kits?, im stiking with oem or aftemarket parts, I could press them ball joints in myself.
Im not sweating things yet, I have a long ass road trip next week to SoCal, San Diego and & Ventura County. This gives me a perfect chance to test and evaluate my issues. I will post up later.