G23 Ideas

[Rootbeer91]

So my original plan on my wagon was to keep it auto and run low boost on a h23... i only want to make like 200whp plus or minus... but after extensive research it seems like its not that easy to successfully boost a automatic accord without having heat issues in the tranny and to have to find someone who can tune it properly... just ends up being more work and money than i care to spend to make 200whp in a 3000lb car... not knocking anyone its just not justifiable for my budget... with that said... i dug up as much info i could today on doing a minor all motor build... i already have the top half of a h23... head, im, dist, etc. etc... i know most people are doing the h22 heads but i wanna do something that wont require any wiring changes... which as far as i know the h23a1 head will not... i will be having the head port and polished... and possibly mild cams... i want to mate the head to a stock f23a1 with k20a3 pistons... according to the information ive pieced together through different build threads and engine specs and then running that information into the h/f series calculator the k20a3 pistons seem to be the only ones that will go in without clearance issues... also the compression ratio will be suitable for being my daily driver at 11:1... again i will be staying automatic so im not trying to be the fastest out there or anything like that i just want a little bit more pep in my step... yall gimme some feedback


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[stunin92_accord]

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G23 sounds like a good idea,but at the end is not too good..yes it could be done but you'll be blowing your motor sooner or later.with an automatic tranny??? for sure..but i do like your wagon,so far thats the nicest wagon i'v seen so far.i'l give you that.

[deevergote]

1) It's not a "G" series. The G series (G20 and G25) are 5 cylinder engines.

2) It is, in my opinion, not a very reliable thing to do... especially if you're new to building in engines. Boosting your F22A would be MUCH more reliable. You could even put your "G23" build money into building the F22 instead.

Some wiring will be necessary, depending on how you choose to handle the ECU. If you run the P14 (H23's ECU) you'll need a knock sensor. Of course, for your plans, you'll want something that can be tuned specifically for your motor (another downside to these hybrids... there's no existing ECU to run them properly.)

Although I will say... you seem to have done more research than most, and you have a much better plan than most people that just want to slap a new head on a block and expect to make reliable power. It's worth a shot, but for the work you're going to be putting into it, it would be a shame to see it break.
A turbo F22A or an H22A swap would be much easier, and offer plenty of power.

[Rootbeer91]

This is grand... lol... i just spent the last 30 minutes reading some of your rants deever... then go to check my thread and you are the last one to reply... very happy to get some input from you... thanks for taking it easy on me... and yes i spent at least 14 hours of reading and research before posting this thread because i didnt want a new asshole ripped into me... lol... i also want to spend the time reading rather than spend the money on trial and error... much cheaper... lol... i do know that there was a real G-series... i just used that term because its what most are familiar with... and yea after talking to my dad who has been building performance engines for 40 years he is saying that even 11:1 is still pretty high compression for a daily that isnt capable of being monitered enough to prevent detenation or other problems that could occur... so as far as my ecu goes i was hoping to run a socketed ecu and have a street tune done on it... so with that being said... could you tell me what you think of my original plan... which is keeping the auto tranny and running a h23 head on my f22a6 with with very low boost to only make around 200whp

[gloryaccordy]

Get an H22 or H23 shortblock and get the 95mm crank (if you get the H22, the H23 will come with it)

[LoDollar92LX]

The F22a head flows just as good or better then the H23, so keep it simple and put high comp pistons in the block you already have, with the head you already have.

[deevergote]

Yeah, I started to rip into you and then as I went along, I realized that you weren't one of the usual g23 morons. I think it's a terrible idea, but I can at least appreciate someone that's willing to do research and actually put forth a bit of effort. Most of the kids that make these threads just think they can throw parts at their car and end up with some crazy engine that will never break on them!

Anyway, yes... a low-boost setup on your F22A would be your best bet. The F22A head flows very well (and has greater flow potential than the H23 head, or even the H22 head...) The extra .1L really isn't that big a deal, especially if you're doing turbo. The turbo will make plenty of torque! Tuning for an automatic can be tricky, though... so put a good deal of time into learning how to do that. OR, find someone who already knows, and have them do it.
Putting the H23 head on the F22A block is not the best idea.

Or, if you want to go N/A, the F22A is a fantastic choice for that as well. 11:1 isn't too high for a street car. That's what the H22A Type S runs. You'll most certainly need 91-93 octane, but it's more than doable. I've known cars to run on pump gas with higher... it's all in the tune.

[Joey GT-R]

I'M BACK!!!!!!


I like what lodollar said. However, I consider the better flow of the F22 and the DOHC of the H23 to be tradeoffs, so it's your call. Not sure why you would go with a G23 from an all-motor perspective....yes it was done that way in HondaTuning but I still wasn't feeling it. If you want 2.3 liters then I would suggest building an entire H23 on the side. Keep in mind that cams and pistons require tuning. Most Level/Stage 1 cams can be installed without tuning or modification of the head but you won't get the most out of it. Pistons I wouldn't dare consider doing, especially with that much of a compression bump.

If you're really going to stay auto your best bet really is an H22 or F20B. Unless you can find someone to tune your automatic I fear that you will buy some good parts but doom your engine and transmission due to lack of tuning and the automatic being overwhelmed by the increase in power.

But if you're adamant about doing it this way, this is how I personally would do it.

JDM F22B Head or Full Swap.
Bisimoto F22 Header
AEM CAI
Bisimoto or Ferrea High Compression Valves
KaizenSpeed Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit
F22 H22 Manifold Adapter with either EuroR or S2 Pro Series Manifold
DH-Racing 74mm Throttle Body
2.5inch Full Exhaust of your choice.

POSSIBLY 50 Shot of Nitrous, Preferably Wet Kit- Your call.

That should get you real close to 200whp....if not it should still make for a very competitive ride.

[deevergote]

For a 50 shot, I'd prefer a dry nitrous kit. The stock injectors can flow enough fuel to make it safe (and a kit with a "brain box", like Zex, would be best...) A wet single-fogger nitrous kit (which is what you're going to get if you want a 50 shot) shoots a heavy mixture of nitrous and fuel, which isn't evenly distributed among the cylinders. The cylinders closest to the throttle body will run rich, and the cylinders furthest will run lean. I wouldn't say a wet kit is needed until you're running a 100 shot... and more mods may be needed to run that high safely... in which case, a multi-port system, full build, and a higher shot would be worth considering.

Everything else is a decent suggestion... though the AEM CAI is overkill. I have one, and if I were to do it again, I'd get an SRI instead.






Personally, if I had an F22A to build, I'd just build that. They're a dime a dozen, replacement parts are cheap and easy to find, and the F22A head flows AMAZINGLY. An F22A with Bisimoto parts on it will easily toast an H22A.

[The_Head]

Putting the H23 head on the F22A block is not the best idea.

Isn't this what an JDM F22B is? Or is the F22B head a little different?

[deevergote]

The F22B head is not the same as the H23A head, no. The only things they have in common are the fact that they're both DOHC (with similar cam profiles), and they both came in the Prelude Si (the F22B was the JDM equivalent to the H23A in the 4th gen Prelude.)

As a side note... apparently there was an H23A that came in Accords in some markets.

[Joey GT-R]

The reason why I said F22B and not H23A is because should he decided to convert to manual, there are pistons he can instantly drop in without requiring sleeving. Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the Mahle Gold Series is strictly for H22? Plus the fact that there are 12:1 pistons for the F22B and the H23 if Mahle makes them would only be 11.5:1.