wire tuck help needed

[nocal311]

I need to know what the easiest way to route the main engine harness is when doing my wire tuck. I already have my harness from the passenger side run behind the fender and such, just need help with all the engine control stuff. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks.

[steelbluesleepR]

I need to know what the easiest way to route the main engine harness is when doing my wire tuck. I already have my harness from the passenger side run behind the fender and such, just need help with all the engine control stuff. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks.

de-loom it all, figure out what you need and get rid of everything else. find a good spot on the firewall to route the wires, and start connecting the dots. some de-pinning or cutting/soldering will probably be necessary. this is not a job for total noobs, but if you have some common sense and some skill with wiring, you shouldn't have a hard time with it.

one more thing, dont use the crappy blue or yellow crimp connectors, thats just asking to get stranded somewhere

[Ralphie]

I don't know your skill level but i highly suggest that you take a look in the tech section and see if there are any write ups there.

Do some research first and then ask for help when you actually have a question....

and if it is too much for you, pay a shop to do it so that you dont end up with a burnt out shell a month from now.

[nocal311]

well ive got the half tuck done! the only things left and the big main plugs that control all the engine/tranny senors. ill post some pics later and see what you guys think. and one more thing, would it be worth it to relocate the fuse box or just leave it in the factory location?

[SINGLECAMSLAM]

been a few years since I did my tuck, but if I remember correctly, If you unplug the fusebox and pull the wiring back through the firewall, there is enough slack to put the fusebox, map, egr lift sensor etc. Right next to the ecu. That's where mine is anyway. I did have the dash out though, wich made it easier. Good luck.

[nocal311]

yeah i pulled my dash out the otherday thats what i was thinkin of doing. dont need egr lift if i have the valve deleted tho right? and any pics you guys could post of locations of hidden wires would be great! thanks for all the help so far.

[SINGLECAMSLAM]

Even though you don't need it, still keeping it will prevent codes, and limp mode. I used to catch codes all the time, then I plugged the sensor in and no more codes. Or a chipped ecu would get rid of the codes, but that's beyond the skills of most ppl. Egr delete is better when you put the block off plate under the egr valve and put the valve back on and plug it in. That way you still pass the visual emissions inspection and the ecu still thinks it's doing it's job. There's natty ice cans under my iac, fitv, Iab, and the egr, and no probs. I just cut solid gaskets from beer cans and put them behind the stock parts. That way I still pass the visual, even though there's no coolant lines running to the intake any more. Oh yea, I also inspect my own car, wich helps. I'd advise against blocking everything off though, unless you like keeping your foot on the gas for the first 30 seconds in the morning till it warms up. Got used to it already, but makes the car a little cold blooded.

[nocal311]

i already have a base map on a chipped p28 ready for it when it goes back together. probably gunna go with like a moates system for datalogging, but i let my buddy bizzle handle that for me tho. i had my f22a/h23 setup like that too so i know what you mean about cold blooded. thankfully here in tennessee we dont have any kind of emissions testing so im not worried about any of that. i really wanna get the "wtf!!! does that thing even run???" kind of reaction when its all done. i started shaving everything today and honda makes a mess with all the excess seam sealer haha. but yeah hopefully i'll be able to get everything straightened out soon making good progress so far, hopefully it stays that way.