What its the difference in a "DSM" AND "SIR" turbo which will work better on a G

[mozzandherb]

That'd is true but the 4 or 5 vids I seen were cb7's ?

There was never a cb7 that was an SiR, that was a Civic model. The dude that posted the video just wrote that it was an SiR, people for some reason like to put badges on their car that don't make any sense. I actually once saw a Civic for the longest time driving that had a vtech sticker where it appears on the actual SiR model which is the back side of the car. Only problem is that vtech is a phone company. I dont know if buddy was just joking around, but he had it on there for about a year.

[deevergote]

Or it was the member AccordSiR, who has a turbo H22.

Either way, things mentioned in youtube videos are hardly worthwhile things to base your own plans off of. Just because someone has a camera doesn't mean they know what they're talking about.


In the future, if you wish to add something after you've posted... use the EDIT button. Nobody wants to scroll through multiple posts by you that are only minutes apart.

[boostdelinquent]

SIR Turbo was probably in reference to the SIR engine being turbocharged and not an actual reference to the type of turbo being used. For your power goals you should be fine w/ the 14b off of a DSM just try to avoid the smaller turbo's used for the cars equiped w/ the auto trans. If using a 14b you can also get by with using the DSM manifold and redrilling the flange though there are plenty of decent cast turbo manifolds that bolt right up for $100 or so on ebay so I'd just choose one of those units.

Other turbo options for a cheap DIY kit capable of 250ish are the T3 that Crystler Lebarons came w/ and units from Audi and Saab. Personally I'd use the T3 from a Le Baron since they can be had at pick n pulls for $60 or so and flow a better in the top end than the 14b will. The bottom end response will be slightly decreased, though not significatly, from the larger size but considering how easily my bone stock F22 already breaks loose in 1st and 2nd I wouldn't consider this a bad thing.

From there you'll need to drop in a set of DSM 450's, pick up an intercooler, piping, blowoff valve, and have a downpipe welded up to reach the exhaust. If you shop around and know what your doing these parts can be had for under $400. If you're running anything less than a 2.5 exhaust I'd also upgrade it to a larger diameter piping, 3" being my preference for boosted applications though 2.5 won't choke it too badly.

Once all of this is done the MOST IMPORTANT PART is engine managment. Do not waste your time w/ any sort of AFC hack or FMU. While both can increase the supply of fuel neither have provisions to adjust your timing maps according. The cheapest option for this will be to have your ecu chipped and tuned. This doesn't mean the so called "boost chips" on ebay since they are junk. What you'll need to do is have an experienced tuner start w/ a basemap then at a minimal street tune your fuel/air ratios and timing.

This should be the "basics" for a cheap yet reliable DIY set-up. I highly suggest you also take Deevergote's advice and buy the books he suggested as they have a ton of very useful information. GL w/ your build and have fun learning during the process. We all started where you are.

[h22couperidah]

im gonna go the dsm route with the 14b good little turbo an plus i have a gsx out side that is doing nothing lol

[deevergote]

im gonna go the dsm route with the 14b good little turbo an plus i have a gsx out side that is doing nothing lol

Good idea. Slap a tiny turbo on your 2.2L engine. The F22A LOVES heat!

This isn't about your plans. Quit post-whoring, or you'll get banned.

[super sox]

"DSM" is like an acronym for Mitsubishi related cars, like the talon, eclipse and so forth. So. DSM is pretty much an easy way to define the mitsubishi imports. so using a DSM turbo is just using one from some sort of Mitsubishi motor/car/ie. best i can explain DSM. SIR on the other hand know nothing about. but as for your 225+ hp range, I run a Evo3 16G turbo and i make 210whp bone stock,daily driver, with a little modding your goal can be done. as for reliable routine maintenance oil, plugs, then when time comes timing belt, and clutch if it gets there. hope that was some what helpful, and best of luck!

Thanks I'm poke around in the members rides take a peke @ some rides see what every one its running that will help m me alot.

[blazenem]

DSM = Diamond Star Motors refers to mitsubishi automobiles....

[mozzandherb]

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=171871

I merged the two threads because you already had one created. In the future, if you have already created a thread and start another one that is similar to the original it will get deleted.

[FAK_LAF]

FIRST, go to www.realhomemadeturbo.com and read EVERYTHING. Don't ask any dumb noob questions or questions period there because you will get flamed. Just read everything there is to offer there. Those guys have a wealth of information about turbocharging reliably and on the cheap. Granted, most of the builds on that site are D's, but all the same theory applies to the F. Oh, and if you are set on a DSM turbocharger, this site is full of them. After visiting this site, you should have all the information you will ever need to successfully boost your F.

SECOND, Google "reading compressor maps." Most any reputable turbo manufacturer will have a compressor map available for their product. All you need to know is your engine's volumetric efficiency and what boost levels you would like to run and you can match a compressor to your motor. The amazing Google will also help you match a turbine housing to your compressor. Hint, you will need to familiarize yourself with terms like "trim" and "AR" first.

As already stated a million times, use available resources to find out what turbo best suits your needs. after that, be sure you use a reliable method to maintain safe A/F ratios. Now days there are very inexpensive ways to control fuel and spark such as chipping an OEM ecu or MS. No need to spend ass loads of money on AEM or Hondata, or cheap out on piggyback fuel controllers. There is also many options as far as free software for tuning. A correctly sized turbo and fuel/spark management to back it up is doable if you just go out and look in the right places.