Announcement

Collapse
1 of 2 < >

ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!

Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956

Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
2 of 2 < >

Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)

Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.

These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.

1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.

2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.

3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.

4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.

The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.

The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
See more
See less

Boost ? here...newb status...

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Originally posted by deevergote View Post
    I hope your rebuild isn't limited to stock internals. That power range is doable with stock internals, but I wouldn't expect it to last very long. As long as quality parts that are capable of withstanding boost are installed properly, the tune is good, and the turbo and fuel components are correct and in good working condition, then that should be doable on stock sleeves for sure.
    Well, I'm deffinatly going to go the forged route, I want this to be as reliable as possible.

    Originally posted by Makaveli2k
    White girls make the world go round. If I were to be stranded on an island and I could only 3 things to bring with me It'd be 2 different white girls. And a Smashing pumpkins Cd... I hear they like that shit. =p

    Comment


      #17
      to properly turbocharge your cb7 you will need the following, new head gasket, froged pistons and connecting rods, valves, guides, springs, lifters, upgrade intake manifold skunk 2 and throttle body, cold air intake, 450cc rc injectors or better aem hi flow fuel rail warbor lp255 fuel pump, upgrade fuel lines aem light weight pullies optima battery, turbocharger, intercoller with piping, bov
      i would go in a add new axels, port the head stainless steel exaust, heat rap for exaust,
      new cluth and flywheel to handle the stress, hondata reprogramable ecu, tune. if your going to build it do it right it will last longer and be reliable. remember we drive honda's not ford's you dont want to be broken down on the side of the road all of the time

      Comment


        #18
        right now i have all of my parts i just need to wait til it gets warmer, one of the sites i used was andysautosports.com and search on ebay, local tuner shops ect, and thats buying parts like every paycheck cause not too many people have the cash folw to just go and buy everything they need at once

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by jemuzu3 View Post
          to properly turbocharge your cb7 you will need the following, new head gasket, froged pistons and connecting rods, valves, guides, springs, lifters, upgrade intake manifold skunk 2 and throttle body, cold air intake, 450cc rc injectors or better aem hi flow fuel rail warbor lp255 fuel pump, upgrade fuel lines aem light weight pullies optima battery, turbocharger, intercoller with piping, bov
          i would go in a add new axels, port the head stainless steel exaust, heat rap for exaust,
          new cluth and flywheel to handle the stress, hondata reprogramable ecu, tune. if your going to build it do it right it will last longer and be reliable. remember we drive honda's not ford's you dont want to be broken down on the side of the road all of the time


          Please dont post anything like that again.. Would you like to be called out at how much superfluous shit you have listed that you DO NOT need?? Or rather the crap that will HURT your motor.... Enjoy your UR Crank pulley and the oil pump/bottom end/bearingsd that it RUINS...


          If you really bought all that shit, you wasted alot of money. Its far from what you NEED to make power on a boosted setup.

          You have ABSOLUTELY 0 busineess advising on a turbo setup by you posts here.


          0.

          Check the sig and snoop around before you talk shit too.
          Last edited by Supergenius; 11-17-2010, 09:12 PM.
          750 WHP/575 TQ CD5 Raping a street near you....
          realHomeMadeTurbo.com / Kaizenspeed.com / LSD Motorsports / Tempest Racing /SpeedFactory /ExplicitSpeedPerformance

          GFI HOLLA!!!!!!


          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cdiz0k0Rudw

          Comment


            #20
            The only thing he said that makes sense is to upgrade the clutch... which has not been mentioned yet (and is usually assumed to be common knowledge...) a stock clutch won't handle even low boost for very long. Get quality, and get something that is rated for your output... no more, no less. When it comes to a clutch, a higher "stage" or stronger clutch won't do anything useful if you don't make the power that it is designed to hold.






            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by deevergote View Post
              The only thing he said that makes sense is to upgrade the clutch... which has not been mentioned yet (and is usually assumed to be common knowledge...) a stock clutch won't handle even low boost for very long. Get quality, and get something that is rated for your output... no more, no less. When it comes to a clutch, a higher "stage" or stronger clutch won't do anything useful if you don't make the power that it is designed to hold.
              Agreed. I've recently been looking at the action clutches that are available on Bisi's store...

              Originally posted by Makaveli2k
              White girls make the world go round. If I were to be stranded on an island and I could only 3 things to bring with me It'd be 2 different white girls. And a Smashing pumpkins Cd... I hear they like that shit. =p

              Comment


                #22
                Action is good, though I know one member here that had SERIOUS issues with his... but I suppose even quality manufacturers have their duds from time to time, and even knowledgeable and experienced mechanics/hobbyists can make installation mistakes.

                In general, any of the big names are good, especially for a modest setup. Action, Spec, ACT, ClutchMasters, Centerforce, Exedy, etc... Just stay away from those cheapie ones on eBay! XTD, F1 (though some people like them, I wouldn't risk it...) etc...






                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by jemuzu3 View Post
                  to properly turbocharge your cb7 you will need the following, new head gasket, froged pistons and connecting rods, valves, guides, springs, lifters, upgrade intake manifold skunk 2 and throttle body, cold air intake, 450cc rc injectors or better aem hi flow fuel rail warbor lp255 fuel pump, upgrade fuel lines aem light weight pullies optima battery, turbocharger, intercoller with piping, bov
                  i would go in a add new axels, port the head stainless steel exaust, heat rap for exaust,
                  new cluth and flywheel to handle the stress, hondata reprogramable ecu, tune. if your going to build it do it right it will last longer and be reliable. remember we drive honda's not ford's you dont want to be broken down on the side of the road all of the time
                  you are quite mistaken. the last F22 i boosted used a dsm turbo and manifold, ebay front mount, dsm 450cc inj. wrx fuel pump, bkr7e plugs, chipped p06 on crome, 2.5" exhaust. that was over a year ago, its still working fine on 8psi.

                  instagram @mikeymeyagi

                  Comment


                    #24
                    A stock DSM turbo is asking for trouble, though. Especially in the hands of an amateur.






                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by jemuzu3 View Post
                      right now i have all of my parts i just need to wait til it gets warmer, one of the sites i used was andysautosports.com and search on ebay, local tuner shops ect, and thats buying parts like every paycheck cause not too many people have the cash folw to just go and buy everything they need at once
                      WTF?
                      1. I have no clue WTF you are saying in your doublepost.
                      2. Why the hell would you reccomend AAS? Customer Service is horrible, Shipping time is horrible, prices are not good either... Overall they are a shitty company.
                      Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                      When it comes to a clutch, a higher "stage" or stronger clutch won't do anything useful if you don't make the power that it is designed to hold.
                      It builds leg muscles.
                      Call me Travis.
                      2006 Cobalt LS/SC ~ "Burt the Bloody Bumble Bee"
                      1992 Accord LX ~ "Smoothie"
                      1991 CRX Si ~ Hellion
                      1989 GMC S15 ~ Oldie

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Not so much. The hydraulics do the majority of the work. If it was a cable clutch, THEN you'd be rocking a killer left leg!






                        Comment


                          #27
                          My main goal is 275-325whp but I'd like to have that with a big snail, at medium boost, like 18-22psi...So that way if I really wanted to, I could turn it up and put down around 450-500whp or so...

                          Originally posted by Makaveli2k
                          White girls make the world go round. If I were to be stranded on an island and I could only 3 things to bring with me It'd be 2 different white girls. And a Smashing pumpkins Cd... I hear they like that shit. =p

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                            A stock DSM turbo is asking for trouble, though. Especially in the hands of an amateur.
                            this is a very legitimate point sir.

                            instagram @mikeymeyagi

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by 91_CB7_Sedan View Post
                              My main goal is 275-325whp but I'd like to have that with a big snail, at medium boost, like 18-22psi...So that way if I really wanted to, I could turn it up and put down around 450-500whp or so...
                              define "big snail".... i make over 400whp on 10psi with my T04R

                              i think a super 60 sized turbo will do all you need, with a set of 650cc injectors. You're not going to be able to make you're high boost power goals on stock sleeves for a extended period of time. i think you would have more fun with a quick spooling 325whp setup speaking from experience.

                              instagram @mikeymeyagi

                              Comment


                                #30
                                For the sake of reliability and fuel economy, a larger, later-spooling turbo wouldn't be a bad idea. If you can drive around out of boost when you're not looking to have fun, and then wind it up to boost range when you are... things will last longer, and you'll essentially get N/A fuel economy when you're not boosting.






                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X