FITV coolant hose

[sum123]

93 EX 4DR 5SPD 190,000

Hello. First post. Want to take off the FITV and clean it but the long coolant hose on it is so dried out and baked on that I don't think it will come off without coming apart. I was able to get the hoses off the iacv, remove and clean it, but none are as bone dry and cemented on as the hose in question. Where does that hose go and is it difficult to replace the whole hose? Any tricks to safely softening the existing hose to perhaps take it off without damaging it, also appreciated. I am able to slide the clamp off of it, but then attempting to wiggle the hose stopped me cold. It felt like it was ready to burst before budging on the nozzle.

[theSOB]

93 EX 4DR 5SPD 190,000

Hello. First post. Want to take off the FITV and clean it but the long coolant hose on it is so dried out and baked on that I don't think it will come off without coming apart. I was able to get the hoses off the iacv, remove and clean it, but none are as bone dry and cemented on as the hose in question. Where does that hose go and is it difficult to replace the whole hose? Any tricks to safely softening the existing hose to perhaps take it off without damaging it, also appreciated. I am able to slide the clamp off of it, but then attempting to wiggle the hose stopped me cold. It felt like it was ready to burst before budging on the nozzle.

i always use pliers to try to spin the hose loose. unbold the fitv if you haven't already. this should allow you to spin it off the hose.

[sum123]

Okay that makes sense. Then I can stabilitze the hose and twist the valve for free it up and pull it out. Come to think of it I used similar method on the IACV but for some reason this FITV worries me more. I expect more coolant to spill when removing it. I lost very little on the IACV. Going to take another shot at it first thing when the engine is completely cold and get that thing off and clean it.

Speaking of valves and stuff, does anybody have a good trick for getting a wrench, socket, flare nut or whatever on the EGR valve bolts? I tried to remove it to inspect and clean it but never could get it removed. The bolts are tough to get a socket seated on without slightly angling the socket because they are so close to the body of the valve. I only tried the visible bolt up front. The one around on the other side will likely be even tougher. I tried a 12mm flex socket, but again, can't get it firmly seated on the bolt because of how it sits so close to the valve. Tried 12mm flare nut crowfoot but can't get it firmly on there either. It starts chewing up the top of that bolt, just like the socket. How did you take yours off and what tools did you use? Thanks.

[theSOB]

Okay that makes sense. Then I can stabilitze the hose and twist the valve for free it up and pull it out. Come to think of it I used similar method on the IACV but for some reason this FITV worries me more. I expect more coolant to spill when removing it. I lost very little on the IACV. Going to take another shot at it first thing when the engine is completely cold and get that thing off and clean it.

Speaking of valves and stuff, does anybody have a good trick for getting a wrench, socket, flare nut or whatever on the EGR valve bolts? I tried to remove it to inspect and clean it but never could get it removed. The bolts are tough to get a socket seated on without slightly angling the socket because they are so close to the body of the valve. I only tried the visible bolt up front. The one around on the other side will likely be even tougher. I tried a 12mm flex socket, but again, can't get it firmly seated on the bolt because of how it sits so close to the valve. Tried 12mm flare nut crowfoot but can't get it firmly on there either. It starts chewing up the top of that bolt, just like the socket. How did you take yours off and what tools did you use? Thanks.

i was able to just use a normal socket with an extension. make sure your using a shallow socket (obviously)

[aluminum13]

Yeah, I know what hose you are talking about. PITA.

Try to spray a little silicone lube on the hose and get it to seep into the edge at the end, that might help.

I ended up cutting the hose off the nipple and teeing a short length of new hose, which I consider a temporary measure, but it works fine.

The hose runs down and around to the block. Tough to get to. Just trace with flashlight. I considered replacing it with generic hose but it has a bunch of bends that I don't think I can replicate without it rubbing somewhere.

You'll want some long reach offset pliers to work the clamp.



Also, in my case, there was little wrong with my FITV when I cleaned it, but the coolant lines to it were full of gunk. I managed to clear them and that's what fixed my problems more than anything else IMO.

[bobbycos]

by the way, the FITV coolant hose is available brand new from Honda

[aluminum13]

^^^best option

[sum123]

Was able to wiggle it off of there and reuse the same hose. No leaks so far. Never did find out where that hose goes and wasn't looking forward to having to jack up the car and crawl up under there to find the fitting while all the coolant was spilling out.

Might be able to hold off on the EGR port cleaning, for now. Cleaning the IACV and cleaning and tightening down the FITV seems to have fixed my driveability issue. The car had been idling poorly and then stumbling and studdering badly when throttling up. Studdering badly enough to be a danger to myself and other drivers. At times if felt like the pedal wasn't even connected to anything. That bad.

I pulled the electrical wire on the IACV this morning while the engine was idling poorly and the idle dropped down to a barely running, loping idle. I slowly turned the idle screw on throttle body a full turn counterclockwise which bumped idle up to about 400rpms. Then I plugged the IACV back in and idle speed jumped to 850, which is exactly where I like it. I goosed the throttle in neutral multiple times and upon letting off of it the engine speed dropped smoothly back to 850. Prior to fixing this, such a burst and release would have caused the rpm's to bounce down to about 200 before saving itself and settling back in at the rough idle.

Then the road test. Smooth takeoff and smooth acceleration right on through. I drove it 15 miles in various traffic conditions just to be sure. Seems fine now. I think the whole driveability problem that has dogged me for 2 weeks was about the base idle being lost by the system due to dirty IACV. An improper base idle led to improper throttling. I just couldn't see the forest for the trees and spent a lot of time multimetering stuff, listening to injectors with a screwdriver, trying to take off the EGR, etc.

Still not sure I did this right, but it seems to work. Perhaps I am overworking the newly cleaned IACV by not going ahead and setting the idle at 850 with the IACV unplugged. Not sure. If anyone has any thoughts on it, I very much welcome them.

In all honesty, I will never look at a smooth idle the same way again. It's so very important.

[EatMyShorts3915]

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=146239 here this how u set it look in the diy for ther problums like this

[sum123]

I found HondaFan81's post this morning, but thanks anyway. I used almost that process to adjust mine. Happy with it so will leave well enough alone unless it starts to act up again. I know this, I will respect idle from now on. My new motto; You cannot force a computerized car to drive well when it doesn't have a set and solid base idle to refer to. Running problems when you know the fuel and ignition systems are healthy? Check your idle.