wats the prob with ebay parts

[Velocifero]

If you clutch isn't slipping then don't touch it, and if i needs to be replaced, replace it with OEM spec Exedy replacement. Don't get any of that staged stuff.

Define jdm?

Maybe for beginners ya? I like my stage 2 Competition Clutch...clutch lol. Pretty drivable.

[deevergote]

A clutch that is designed to handle more power than your engine makes is a waste of money, not an upgrade. Furthermore, the "better" clutches have a friction material that will eat up your flywheel and pressure plate, much like "performance" brake pads.

90% of the cars on this forum don't need anything more than OEM replacement or most reputable manufactures' "Stage 1" or equivalent. Serious NA builds, or anything with forced induction (due to the significant increase in torque output over NA) will need something "better".



Think of a clutch like a condom. If you don't have a big dick, you don't need a big condom. It might seem cool to buy some Magnums, but their purpose is wasted on your puny unit. Buy what your equipment requires.

[alb_accord]

I have a lot of experience with cheap no-name parts because I am cheap lol:

Exhaust: catbacks, test pipes, headerS(more than one), turbo manifolds, mufflers.
I've never had any problems with these. The quality and fitment was always excellent.

Engine gaskets.
They look just like OEM gaskets and I've used them many times and never had any problems.

Suspension parts.
Don't even think about it if you race your car. The price difference isn't worth the risk. However, the cheap tie rods, control arms, balljoints, and wheel bearings worked for me on a daily beater that was never raced.

Interior parts: gauge pods, radio bezels, etc.
These are the parts you are looking at when you are driving the car, don't cheap out on these. The knock-offs look super cheap!

Wiring harnesses.
A wire is a wire.

Various turbo parts: boost controllers, turbochargers and parts, wastegates, manifolds, etc.
I've never had any problems with them. However, don't expect these parts to last with no maintenance. The reason why I never had any problems with them is because I am not afraid to take them apart and rebuild them before they even go on the car.

Air intakes/intercoolers/couplers
A pipe is a pipe.

you sir get . i couldn't have put it better my self. thank you.
as for suspension parts, sometimes you can find moog upper control arms which are about $70 less than the dealer ones....

[deevergote]

Aside from things like suspension and brakes, that can kill you if they fail... it's really up to you.

Personally, I'm not a huge fan of working on my car. I'd much rather be driving it than fixing it all the time. Therefore, I'll pay for quality, and only worry about doing it ONCE.
When you use cheap parts, you MIGHT get lucky and they'll last... or you might end up with a failed part in a short period of time. If the risk is worth the savings, and you don't mind fixing what breaks... then go for it.

Just be aware that most cheap performance parts won't offer nearly as much of a gain in performance as properly engineered parts.
For example, a cheap "ebay" header will get you MAYBE 5-8hp... and that's being generous.
The Bisimoto header, on the other hand, made 27whp with a stock intake and stock exhaust.
The price difference is significant, but so is the performance. Very often, you DO get what you pay for, as long as you understand what you're buying.

[Velocifero]

A clutch that is designed to handle more power than your engine makes is a waste of money, not an upgrade. Furthermore, the "better" clutches have a friction material that will eat up your flywheel and pressure plate, much like "performance" brake pads.

90% of the cars on this forum don't need anything more than OEM replacement or most reputable manufactures' "Stage 1" or equivalent. Serious NA builds, or anything with forced induction (due to the significant increase in torque output over NA) will need something "better".



Think of a clutch like a condom. If you don't have a big dick, you don't need a big condom. It might seem cool to buy some Magnums, but their purpose is wasted on your puny unit. Buy what your equipment requires.

Most people that's true. With my H and future mods, it will certainly come in handy. I'm fairly sure my ACT flywheel can handle my meager setup too.

[deevergote]

The material itself in a "stronger" clutch can actually result in premature wear of the flywheel and pressure plate friction surfaces... so unless you actually need it, you're only wearing out expensive parts faster than necessary.

I mean, it's good if you're going to be building the engine enough to make use of it while there's still life left... but SO many kids are like "I'm gonna get a Megan Racing header, a Delta camshaft, an AEM intake, and a STAGE 6 RACING CLUTCH!!!"

[Velocifero]

The material itself in a "stronger" clutch can actually result in premature wear of the flywheel and pressure plate friction surfaces... so unless you actually need it, you're only wearing out expensive parts faster than necessary.

I mean, it's good if you're going to be building the engine enough to make use of it while there's still life left... but SO many kids are like "I'm gonna get a Megan Racing header, a Delta camshaft, an AEM intake, and a STAGE 6 RACING CLUTCH!!!"

lol I know, like that's going to make all the difference. Money is def. better spent elsewhere until you really figure out what you wanna do with the car. If they can't scratch the itch, I'd say stage 1 is a good compromise. But that's if the current one is dying. Mine was so just did the clutch and flywheel (only 12 lbs.).

[deevergote]

I admit, I got a Stage 3 clutch when I first changed mine (XTD... *shudder*)

[rexload]

I forgot to say a couple of things about my experience with cheap clutches.

On my Accord I had an XTD stage1 clutch for a couple years and never had any problems with it. It always felt pretty solid.

Right now I am running an F1 Stage3. It is a pretty rough clutch compared to an Exedy OEM replacement for example. The reason I got a 6 puck stage3 is obviously because of my power goals. The F1 was significantly cheaper than a quality clutch/pressure plate. I am aware that running a cheap clutch is a gamble but I want to see how long it lasts.

[cb7_with_snail]

hey man, u live in paola? u know my cousin Luke Bacon? If so, have him take a look at it. he's helped me with my car before. He's very knowledgeable when it comes to cars.

As for exhaust off ebay, i got the cheapest stainless steel exhaust i could find. I was sick of my exhaust rusting away. It fell off completely one day. it's loud as hell and i get a lot of cops' attention. but that's what you get from ebay. i just hope it last. seems to be alright quality, just loud.

dude if you have a personal message for me pm me. dont just post it here

[theSOB]

dude if you have a personal message for me pm me. dont just post it here

that was not for you. that was for the op, who hasn't shown his presence since his first post. so methinks this thread is pointless...

[CB7_Catalyst]

that was not for you. that was for the op, who hasn't shown his presence since his first post. so methinks this thread is pointless...

I think you scared him off.. lol