spark plug wires

[markrutherford]

So since i got the cb7 its needed a good tune up and valve cover gakset since the plugs are all oily. But i wanna do the cover gasket and plugs today and the wires will be in the mail in 3-5 days. What will happen if i run the old wires. Two of them have oil on them and the other two are dry. Just curious thats all. Thanks

[stretch JDM]

you should be fine to run the old ones until you get the new ones in .do they show bad wear ?

[markrutherford]

you should be fine to run the old ones until you get the new ones in .do they show bad wear ?

No just oil on them. The owner before me did them so they got like 8,000 miles on it but are filled with oil

[Fleetw00d]

If they are only 8,000 miles old, I would clean them and reuse them. Sounds like you need to replace the lower plug tube seals as well as the uppers and valve cover gasket. Make sure you back off all the valve adjustment screws before loosening the rocker assembly. If you don't have one, get at least a Haynes or Chilton service manual for proper bolt torque sequence and values.

[stretch JDM]

yes sir, fleetw00d nailed it .thats what i was gonna say. you will be fine man, reusing them. be sure in advance to fix the tube seals in the future.

[usdm/accord]

oil on them. Just go to auto parts store and buy valve cover gaskets which will come with lower tube seals. Replace it and you should be good and all for under 20 bucks.

[markrutherford]

wait how do you install lower tube seals?

[Fleetw00d]

Remove the valve cover, set the crank to TDC at cylinder #1 firing position, back off all the valve adjusting screws, unbolt the rocker assembly a few turns at a time on each bolt, do not remove the bolts (they hold it together when you lift it off). Be careful not to disturb the cam, the end engaged in the distributor should keep if from lifting off the head. Remove the rocker assembly. There is an o-ring on the bottom of the plug holes that are likely brittle plastic by now (instead of flexible rubber). Replace those o-rings (I use a very small amount of Hondabond to keep them in place). Reinstall the rocker assembly. Torque the bolts in steps in proper order and to proper value (this is where a manual is handy). Adjust valves in proper order. Install new upper seals and valve cover gasket in cover, install cover. Install sealing washers and nuts. Torque nuts to spec. Reinstall wires.

[aluminum13]

I just did this job (tube seals) actually, about a week ago. So far so good no leaks.

What is the advantage/purpose of backing off the valve screws BEFORE removing the rocker assembly?

I just unbolted it incrementally and slowly and then after replacing the seals I adjusted the valves. I see that it might be safer especially since if you are doing this job you might as well do the valves anyway so it's just a step you'll have to do in any case, but I didn't have any problems.

Just wondering...

[Tishock]

wait how do you install lower tube seals?

See the DIY thread below. It includes a video link and DIY step by step write up.

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=165682

[Fleetw00d]

What is the advantage/purpose of backing off the valve screws BEFORE removing the rocker assembly?

I just unbolted it incrementally and slowly and then after replacing the seals I adjusted the valves. I see that it might be safer especially since if you are doing this job you might as well do the valves anyway so it's just a step you'll have to do in any case, but I didn't have any problems.

Just wondering...

You want them unloaded so that the torque when reinstalling the rocker assembly goes into seating and preloading the cam keepers properly, not into compressing the valve springs.

[aluminum13]

You want them unloaded so that the torque when reinstalling the rocker assembly goes into seating and preloading the cam keepers properly, not into compressing the valve springs.

Thanks for the reply.

Good point, I hadn't thought of that.

I don't think I have to go back and redo anything because I incrementally tightened everything down (inside to outside) so it was "flat*" and then torqued it to the final value. If I had mistaken the torque for bolt tightness instead of spring pressure, I would probably have messed up valve clearances and the engine would run weird, which it doesn't.

I guess I'll pop the cover and take a look just in case.

*as in tight and sealed against mating surface, not cocked in any direction.

[Fleetw00d]

Getting the preload right is not something you would likely be able to see. The bolt torque is designed to create a certain preload of the cam keepers on the head so that small gaps don't open up under load. If the preload isn't correct, it can lead to higher alternating loads on the bolts resulting in a high cycle fatigue failure. Without knowing spring loads and doing a lot of calculations (do enough of that at work all day), I can't say how big a risk it is. I suspect a lot a folks do exactly what you have done and I haven't seen any reports of bolt failures. Personally, I would go back in and back off the adjusters (I know - PIA), loosen and retorque the bolts in sequence, then readjust the valves.