Air intake

[TracieS]

http://www.inlinefour.com/il4peprostin.html
this is pretty much stock tube with filter setup

[cb7_with_snail]

well no you see i thought that was called a ram air intake, but in doing the research it is a "cold air intake" the one that has the pipe all the way down and has the cone steady in the under side behind the bumper. its what i had with my 100 shot. so yes your right i needed to do some research but i was under the wrong term influence. thank you deev for setting me straight but damn harsh words.

but yes if you have the money go with a ligit COLD AIR INTAKE set up.

opposed to a short ram or drop in filter.

[Fleetw00d]

"Ram Air" is simply a term for extracting the intake air from an area on the vehicle that is at a somewhat higher pressure than the surrounding air because of the way the air is flowing over/around the vehicle. Unless the front of the car is very "sharp", the airflow actually stagnates just in front of the blunter surfaces, like the grille/radiator, bumper or in a scoop, converting the total pressure (essentially the kinetic energy of the air) to a static pressure that is locally higher than what it would otherwise be (say, if the opening were sideways relative to the moving air) which is what forces the air through the radiator. This is the reason your radiator fans don't have to run all the time, particularly on the highway. Forward facing scoops are most effective, just look at the intake on most drag racers, indy cars, jet engines, etc. These do have the disadvantate of taking in rain, bugs, the occassional bird, etc. The late 60's early 70's Olds W40 actually had air intakes between the headlights. The rear intake "cowl induction" hoods (on MOPARs mentioned above, I remember late 60's, early 70's Chevelle SS, even my 92 Citation X11) take advantage of a high pressure area that forms at the base of the windshield on many vehicles. This is a good location because the rearward facing opening minimizes the intake of water and debris.

Either way, ram air tends to increase the pressure feeding air into the engine, and therefore the density of the air entering the engine (the cooler it is, the more dense it is as well), so with the manifold air pressure and temperature, the computer knows there is more air in the cylinder so it can inject more fuel and expect it to properly burn, therefore more power.

Want to convince yourself? Get a good vacuum/pressure gage and run a hose to various areas on the front of the car and compare it to measurements taken in the engine compartment or behind the fender, or at the base of the windshield. Come to think of it, I may try it myself and let you all know what I find out.

[deevergote]

Exactly.

That's why most "ram air" setups that people do (such as cutting a hole in a headlight and putting an open tube there) do not work. Those areas are low pressure areas. What I was referring to as a vacuum, though low pressure is a much better term.





A cold air intake is good... but not considerably better than a short ram, and it poses a serioius threat of hydrolocking. A short ram intake takes air from the engine bay, but when the car is moving, that air is not very warm at all. It's only considerably warmer when the car is sitting still. I have a CAI myself... and I would get a short ram if I was to do it again.

[cb7_with_snail]

yea thats true. you also have that risk while boosted with fmic. i still say go with the k&n drop in. unless you can find a short ram or a cold air.

[deevergote]

How is an FMIC a risk for hydrolock?