Snapped Off Aluminum Chunk Off Coolant Part

[CB7Nub]

Before



Another stupid mistake.

I'm not 100% sure what the part is there is a inch or so thick tube from the rad that connects to this (you can see in the pictures). The air valve was a little loose and rad fluid would SLOWLY leak over months, wasn't a big problem but today I decided I can just tighten it and leave it alone. I used a 12mm socket and tried to tighten, would slowly move and tighten. It moved for a while but did NOT go all the way down, I kept going and then that piece literally snapped off.

Thinking positively, it broke off in one piece and the air valve is fine. I went to the store and bought some JB Weld (2 part hardener and steel epoxy). Here is some information on it.

Type: 2-part epoxy
Surfaces: metal, wood, fiberglass, PVC & ABS, concrete, ceramic, glass, fabric[4][5]
Avoid: clean slick/oily surfaces; do not use alcohol[4]
Temperature (max) 315 degrees C (600 F) 10min[4]
Temperature (minimum) -55 degrees C (-67 F)[6]
Set time: 4–6 hours[4]
Harden time: 15 hours, but sooner under heat lamp or lightbulb after 6 hours[4]
Preparation: sanding, acetone, lacquer thinner, or soap (DO NOT use alcohol or petroleum solvents)[6]
Health issues: Avoid contact with eyes or with skin (wash with soap & water); bonds with skin; non-toxic if ingested[5][6]
Removal: when dry, by filing or rasping[4]
Strength (psi): Tensile Strength: 3960, Adhesion: 1800, Flex Strength: 7320, Tensile Lap Shear: 1040, Shrinkage: 0.0%[5]

They said that should hold after it dries. I put it on following what to do and it's drying at the moment.

After

Broken, but when I put the other piece on...


...it fits perfectly.


My question:
1) Do you think the JB weld will hold? (How long)
2) What is the part I broke and how much is it approximately for a new one?

[PhatAccord]

you can let it dry for about 2 days and then see if the jb weld holds
or your best bet is to replace the thermostat housing, p/n 19320-PT3-A00 about $53

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...ry5=WATER+PUMP
pic#9

[CB7Nub]

Phew, good thing that isn't expensive I just had my whole ignition cylinder assembly replaced like a week ago. Thanks. While it's drying I have some questions.

1) Is there usually a gap where the bleed bold for the rad fluid on the thermostat housing or is it shut all the way?
2) What would happen if you sealed where the bleed bolt would go?

In the service manual is says you need 7lb/ft on the bleed bolt and I wanted to tighten it all the way down to the housing, I should of stopped when it didn't want to move anymore but I thought it should be tight all the way down.

[PhatAccord]

1) yes , i think there is a small gap, its shouldn't bottom out all the way down. but its should stop
2) i don't really think there would be a problem if you actually sealed it up, as it is just a bleeder valve for the cooling system.
you could just put a funnel on the radiator w/ coolant and run the engine till the fans come on / cycle twice to bleed the system.

[Joshy]

Ah yes, the good 'ol therostat housing. When you replace the housing, it would be a good idea to also replace the thermostat. Even if it's working fine and dandy, you'll have the housing removed and open for replacement - besides, the gasket should be replaced with the housing opened up.

Bad idea to seal the bleeder valve shut. You're going to have to bleed the system eventually, due to replacement of cooling system parts, having air trapped in the system, or simply by filling the system adequately.

Just replace the housing (thermostat and gasket, too) then call it a day.

Remember, always hand-tighten the bleeder. An open-ended wrench is best.

[CB7Nub]

Just my luck, all the Honda dealers around me get the part off Honda Canada and the part is on back order there till November 17th to 30th, yes I said NOVEMBER. I I have about 23k until my next flush so I am thinking that I can just seal off the hole with the JB Weld. Then when the part comes in I can get it installed then.

1) With the hole 100% blocked off, could this cause any problems within a month or so time until I can get the part?
2) Could the JB epoxy fill into the hole when first put on and possibly get into the coolant system? (Its pretty thick and doesn't really move around, not sure.)

[AaronRVegas]

why not just go to the jy and grab a used one for $5? as long as it is in good shape you should be fine. a new gasket should be cheap too.

[Joshy]

Couldn't you mount the missing piece, with the bleeder valve screwed in, and then JB Weld it to the housing? That way you'd be able to activate/loosen the bleeder if you had to.

I don't see why it has to be sealed shut?

Here's what I'd do:

Spread a little bit of JB Weld between the two pieces. Then sit the missing piece in place, and spread an adequate amount around the perimeter of the broken piece. Wrap a piece of masking tape as a cast around the JB Welded parts. The epoxy will conform inside the shape of the tape, and the tape will also keep the epoxy from spreading past where you want it to go. After 18 or so hours, unwrap the tape. Carefully loosen the bleeder (in case any JB Weld came in contact with it, sealing it to the repaired housing), and then hand-tighten it shut.

[wed3k]

id honestly leave it, i rarely bleed the systems.

[92exa6]

Remember, always hand-tighten the bleeder. An open-ended wrench is best.

No, they give a torque figure for a reason. Had he used a torque wrench set to the proper figure this all would have been prevented.

[foamypirate]

No, they give a torque figure for a reason. Had he used a torque wrench set to the proper figure this all would have been prevented.

Can't say I know of anyone who busts out the torque wrench to tighten a thermostat housing bleeder...

I just snug it. Never had an issue.

[92exa6]

Can't say I know of anyone who busts out the torque wrench to tighten a thermostat housing bleeder...

I just snug it. Never had an issue.

Torque wrench is in the same toolbox as the combination wrench. It takes no more work to use the correct tool, but to each his own.

[foamypirate]

Torque wrench is in the same toolbox as the combination wrench. It takes no more work to use the correct tool, but to each his own.

I'm all for using the correct tools. I'm always buying tools so I can do things properly. I just don't see the need for a torque wrench on something as simple as the bleeder screw. I'd figure it would be common sense not to torque the shit out of it.

[wed3k]

there's a torque value for the bleeder screw?

i honestly use my torque wrench on headbolts and thats about it unless im building an engine. when you're skilled like foamy and i, you can be one with the bolt/nut and feel it.

[red07frontier]

Good god a torque wrench and a bleeder screw. I'm with wed3k, I use a torque wrench on head and intake bolts and that's about it. It would take me a week to swap an engine if I torqued every nut and bolt.

I'd say just go grab one at the junk yard and clean her up.

Is there seriously a torque value for the bleeder screw though?