Announcement

Collapse
1 of 2 < >

ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!

Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956

Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
2 of 2 < >

Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)

Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.

These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.

1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.

2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.

3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.

4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.

The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.

The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
See more
See less

Auto tranny

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
    #1

    Auto tranny

    Thanks for the input guys on my last problem. Now that I have that fixed I will move on the to the next.

    Tranny in "D" position is very sluggish. Almost feels as if it starting in 3rd or 4th instead of first. I have the green "s" indicator light on the dash a solid on, not blinking and yes the "sport shift" button is off. If I drop the shift selector into "1" in shifts into one no problem, same with second as I am driving. It also wont downshift if I smash the gas pedal.

    At first I thought in might be the shifting solenoids but upon further reading about similar problems I suspect it is the TCU.

    Anyone want to shine some light on this for me?

    Ron, or as Tommi would put it, Seasoned Dude!
    Tags: None
    #2
    The solid "S" light is indicating an error code in the TCU.
    Read the "read this first" sticky at the top of this section to see how to read and interpret the code.






    Comment

      #3
      Usually when the shift light is solid and you are starting in wrong gears the tcu is the culprit. If you are comfortable taking out the tcu, i would suggest opening it and looking for burnt components on the board. If this is the case then grab a tcu from ebay or from the junkyard

      Comment

        #4
        Thanks Guys. I was really leaning towards a TCU as the culprit.

        I will check out ebay.

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by troubledrican View Post
          Usually when the shift light is solid and you are starting in wrong gears the tcu is the culprit. If you are comfortable taking out the tcu, i would suggest opening it and looking for burnt components on the board. If this is the case then grab a tcu from ebay or from the junkyard
          I did the TCU check and it checked out as a faulty TCU, zero blinks. Ordered one of the ebay.

          I love this site. Very helpful people. lots of good info.

          Comment

            #6
            Good, at least you checked for codes (you jumped the service connector under the dash, right?)

            So many people just assume it's a bad ECU without doing that, and end up wasting money. The error code is telling you one of two things a) that some component is bad, and the TCU is reporting it, or b) that the TCU itself is bad.






            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by deevergote View Post
              Good, at least you checked for codes (you jumped the service connector under the dash, right?)

              So many people just assume it's a bad ECU without doing that, and end up wasting money. The error code is telling you one of two things a) that some component is bad, and the TCU is reporting it, or b) that the TCU itself is bad.
              LOL, Ya I jumped the blue service connector under the dash on passenger side kick panel. I did a lot of reading and found good info at ECMtogo, I think this info below would be a good addition to the sticky posts in this section.

              How to remove the ECM for 1990-94 Honda Accord/Civic ECM & TCU:

              The engine and transmission computers for the Hondas are usually located under the carpet of the passenger side floor/foot rest area. Remove the carpet, which may require loosening the door jam or trim areas of passenger kick panel. Once the carpet is pulled back you should see a large (and you'll find out soon, quite heavy) "bash" or protection plate. This can be removed by extracting the fastening screws to the plate and moving the plate to the side. There are two or three plugs in each unit. Depress the center of the tab and pull away from the unit. The transmission computer is the one with the prefix part number "28100" and the engine controller has a prefix of "37820". The transmission TCU controller will manifest malfunctioning by shifting problems or lack of shifting. Most transmission computers when failing, your car will likely be in "limp mode" or "fail safe" mode which is 3rd gear and reverse only and the "D" or "D4" or "S" or Sport light light will flash or stay lit.

              I got the TCU today and it works like a charm.

              Now I goota figure out my electric fan problems but that is another post.

              Later

              Comment

                #8
                WELL, I thought I had the TCU problem licked but it seems to have come back. This morning I got in and started the car and had the steady "S" light indicator was on. WTF???

                I drove the car over the weekend and then parked it for 2 days. it was fine when I parked it.

                Any thoughts or ideas on what would cause my TCU go back into limp mode again??

                I will again use the service plug to indeed see if it is the actual computer or something else related to the TCU.

                What are the odds of getting a used TCU and have it go out in 3 days?

                Comment

                  #9
                  Check to see if it's giving you a legitimate error code before blaming the TCU.

                  The odds of that TCU going bad are just as good as the odds that your original TCU would go bad. They're about the same age, and may very well have the same amount of use. If you bought local, they were even exposed to the same environment.






                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                    Check to see if it's giving you a legitimate error code before blaming the TCU.

                    The odds of that TCU going bad are just as good as the odds that your original TCU would go bad. They're about the same age, and may very well have the same amount of use. If you bought local, they were even exposed to the same environment.
                    "legitimate Error Code"?? Dumb question. but how would I tell if it is a legit error code?

                    I just used the service connector to check for codes and it gave me the steady on . No Blinks as with he other TCU.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Pull the radio/backup fuse, and/or remove the negative wire from your battery for a minute, then reconnect, and see if your car drives "normal" again. Going through this procedure should clear any stored codes. If it doesn't make a difference I would say try another tcu, otherwise I would start looking for wire faults.
                      Last edited by cloudasc; 09-22-2010, 09:36 PM.
                      PT3/6 Development Thread | My 1991 LX Coupe | DIY: 90-93 Tcu Fix

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by cloudasc View Post
                        Pull the radio/backup fuse, and/or remove the negative wire from your battery for a minute, then reconnect, and see if your car drives "normal" again. Going through this procedure should clear any stored codes. If it doesn't make a difference I would say try another tcu, otherwise I would start looking for wire faults.
                        Another Great piece of advice. Did the disconnect of Battery for a minuet or two and code disappeared.

                        Now if it comes back again then definitely something is amiss

                        Comment

                        Previous template Next
                        Working...
                        X