stripped rocker arm bolt/chamber

[JDMDriver]

Wow, I never realized this. Could you explain further?

I haven't opened one before so i cannot say i can explain it accurately.

In my opinion i think there is a spring inside that was preloaded (to give its minimum torque value). It needs to be under constant tension (not NO tension) even when stored at all times to not lose its setting.

Once the spring is released tightening it up again will not bring it to its callibrated setting. I think its mearly compressing the spring (from zero) without any load (when it should have an initial sprung load in it).

So if the bottom of the range is zero and you dial it back to below zero it will bring the wrench out of calibration?

I'm not sure on your wrench but on the wrenches (click type ones) that i have come across their min setting is above Zero (not zero).

It is advised not to use the max and min of the wrenches (even though they are there) as too low a setting is risking releasing the spring and the max setting your risking setting a new memory on the over sprung spring.

Can you explain this as my instruction manual didn't say this or I don't recall it saying this?

I know for some torque wrench warning stickers (not on mine anyway) its not specified (i personally think its a racket to have people buy another and a way to make it the users fault). But it is in the user instructions phamplet it came with (on mine anyway). Its silly because most people lose this, gets destroyed or easilly overlooked.

[JDMDriver]

Can you explain this as my instruction manual didn't say this or I don't recall it saying this?

I use Kincrome (a reputable brand here in Australia - not sure everywhere else)

I can confirm to you there is no mention on the wrench itself (not on warning sticker or box) not to loosen below the minimum setting. But the phamplet actually advises you not to.

http://www.kincrome.com.au/web/catal...number=MTW150F

Click on PDF link. Its on page 3, warning number 4.





If you think its just Kincrome check Snap-On which i know is known in the US

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....5&group_ID=954

Look at point 3 "Gorilla-Proof" it mentions it there after "Caution" in brackets

Is it really "Gorilla-Proof" if you have to include a Caution as the item doesnt prevent you from passing the min setting (knocking it out of callibration)?


Note:

If you have loosened the lock nut and twisted the handle below min setting (thinking your doing the right thing unloading prior to storage) chances are you have just knocked your wrench out of callibration.

I suggest buying a new one or have it recallibrated before you damage or destroy something more expensive by using it.





It's a conspiracy i tell you, so we keep buying their product and its always not their fault or under warranty provisions.

[JaberCB7]

well jb weld method failed....horrobly, when i tried to thread it it just crumbled (well not crumble but it was more like a drill than tapping)

got some helicoil but dont have a corded drill and drilling the hole is a pita with a battery drill....especially since its a 9.6v

[batever]

If you think its just Kincrome check Snap-On which i know is known in the US

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....5&group_ID=954

Look at point 3 "Gorilla-Proof" it mentions it there after "Caution" in brackets

Is it really "Gorilla-Proof" if you have to include a Caution as the item doesnt prevent you from passing the min setting (knocking it out of callibration)?


Note:

If you have loosened the lock nut and twisted the handle below min setting (thinking your doing the right thing unloading prior to storage) chances are you have just knocked your wrench out of callibration.

I suggest buying a new one or have it recallibrated before you damage or destroy something more expensive by using it.
.

UGGGh! That's a drag. I thought I was doing the right thing by dialing them down all the way for storage after use; not sure if I did it below zero but I'll go check...
but I'll also check the calibration. I can come up with a way to do that at home for cheap. I already have some ideas.

[batever]

well jb weld method failed....horrobly, when i tried to thread it it just crumbled (well not crumble but it was more like a drill than tapping)

got some helicoil but dont have a corded drill and drilling the hole is a pita with a battery drill....especially since its a 9.6v

good luck drilling. Keep us posted.

[JDMDriver]

UGGGh! That's a drag. I thought I was doing the right thing by dialing them down all the way for storage after use; not sure if I did it below zero but I'll go check...
but I'll also check the calibration. I can come up with a way to do that at home for cheap. I already have some ideas.

Didnt mean to be the bringer of bad news buddy.

At least its better to check or know now than later (with a stripped or snapped bolt, using up more time on a urgent fix ).

Hope your wrench is fine but let me know how you go and with your recalibration ideas. I would be interested in that.

[JaberCB7]

good luck drilling. Keep us posted.

helicoil did the job

Didnt mean to be the bringer of bad news buddy.

At least its better to check or know now than later (with a stripped or snapped bolt, using up more time on a urgent fix ).

Hope your wrench is fine but let me know how you go and with your recalibration ideas. I would be interested in that.

i was gonna buy a torque wrench today at local fleetmarket, it was a good brand but cant remeber with one but they had it for $19 and it was below the zero mark, after reading about calibrating it i wasnt sure to buy it so i just left it alone

[batever]

Didnt mean to be the bringer of bad news buddy.

At least its better to check or know now than later (with a stripped or snapped bolt, using up more time on a urgent fix ).

Hope your wrench is fine but let me know how you go and with your recalibration ideas. I would be interested in that.

this guy already pwns the wrench recalibration-at-home-racket so I'll probably just do it like he says:

http://www.dieseldoctor.com/messageboard/data/229.html


basically, you figure out how far off your wrench is, then put a sticker or something on the wrench to tell you a ratio to multiply the desired torque setting by to adjust for your wrench's inaccuracy.

it's not like resetting the wrench to match its original scale but it will work fine. Just keep a calculator around or in the toolbox. (maybe a covered one so it doesn't get slammed by a heavy crowbar or something).


this method looks a lot more technical (actually, I skimmed it over and I can't figure out exactly how the device he built actually works--I'll have to read it again. He does make a good point that the wrench will be off by different percents at different settings so you need to be aware of that):

http://www.stockcarracing.com/howto/...nch/index.html

After you calibrate your wrench, without getting into actually readjusting your wrench back to spec, you can figure out what the fudge factor is for your wrench and just use that and a calculator to adjust your settings when using the wrench.

When I actually do mine I'll post back, maybe with a DIY if I have time.

[JDMDriver]

batever

Thanks dude. I'll look into it. But if it gets too complicated i may just leave it to a shop to recallibrate ... Lol

[JDMDriver]

helicoil did the job

i was gonna buy a torque wrench today at local fleetmarket, it was a good brand but cant remeber with one but they had it for $19 and it was below the zero mark, after reading about calibrating it i wasnt sure to buy it so i just left it alone

I saw one in the markets last week too. Saw the end was loose and past the min. Everyone was looking and i spoke to the owner and told him its out of callibration and that to get it recallibrated is about the cost of a new one.

I then walked away and alot of the shoppers also walked away. These guy's probably knows what they're doing (ripping people off). I'm sure he would have just tightened it up to fool the next person better. Poor fella who ever buys it and uses it on their pride and joy.

When it comes to Torque wrenches don't buy 2nd hand (to be 100% sure), only buy new.

[JaberCB7]

I saw one in the markets last week too. Saw the end was loose and past the min. Everyone was looking and i spoke to the owner and told him its out of callibration and that to get it recallibrated is about the cost of a new one.

I then walked away and alot of the shoppers also walked away. These guy's probably knows what they're doing (ripping people off). I'm sure he would have just tightened it up to fool the next person better. Poor fella who ever buys it and uses it on their pride and joy.

When it comes to Torque wrenches don't buy 2nd hand (to be 100% sure), only buy new.

how much does a new one cost? a decent brand not high or too low, something like a craftsman if they make one. my father got a $500 craftmans gift card from work and im trying to convince him he doesnt need it

[JDMDriver]

how much does a new one cost? a decent brand not high or too low, something like a craftsman if they make one. my father got a $500 craftmans gift card from work and im trying to convince him he doesnt need it

Costs even with a decent brand will vary depending on the size and type (beam, click, digital...) of the torque wrench (and its capacity).

So price will be relative to the wrench you require.

Having said that you usually get what you pay for (said to me by someone in the trade). Prices vary greatly. So my advise is get something that is not well within your budget but rather something that just fits or just a bit over your budget (without going too far).

Craftsman brand do make torque wrenches.

Im not an expert (and not sure if these brands are in the US) but two reputable brands (may be towards the top of the pecking order) is Norbar and Warren & Brown.

However other list of makers (in Australia anyway) are:

* Snapon,
* Craftsman,
* Beta,
* Caterpillar,
* CDI,
* Hazet,
* Kincrome,
* Proto,
* Sidchrome



* Seekonk,
* T&E Tools,
* Sturtevant Richmont,
* Stahlwille,
* Stanley,
* Tonichi,
* Torqueleader,
* Britool


We have "Repco" chain store. They have an inhouse branded torque wrench. They are a retail chain store of the not so cheap branded tools (unlike Super Cheap Auto - not sure if you know them but they are a cheap parts store in Australia). Repco has life time warranty on their tools.

So although Repco is a rebranded or inhouse brand quality wise their tools are more likely compatible with the more well known brands (as they are similarly priced) and coupled with the life time warranty (and Repco's decades long existance to honour the warranty in the future) its a good brand to get.

If you have a similar chain store (with good reputation, backs their tools and proven stable existence) i would recommend checking their range of tools out.

Goodluck with convincing your Dad as $500 will go a long way to getting you quality torque wrench (or two). If not at least get you some quality tools (example socket and ratchet set, spanner sets, screw driver set).

[batever]

You can spend as much money as you want on torque wrenches but for a do it yourselfer I think craftsman click-style wrenches are fine. They will run you about $90 per wrench. I have one that goes to 80 lbs (click style) that was about $90, one that goes to like 22 lbs (click style) for about $90, and I have a 0-150 lb beam style one that I use for lug nuts and such that cost about $30.

The only bolts on the car that are higher than that are the crankshaft pulley bolt and, I believe, the axle nut. To tell you the truth, with those I just went as high as I safely could with my beam style wrench to get it up to about 145 ft lbs, then threw a breaker bar on the bolt and "nudged " the bolt a little further to make up the estimated difference.