Camberkits

[CB7 R3ason]

whats the diiference between polyurethane bearings and rubber bearings in camber kits and what is this difference between http://www.neuspeed.com/products/pro...port&p_id=1420 and this http://www.neuspeed.com/products/pro...port&p_id=1409 ???

[Accord214]

The difference: first link, the camber kit is for the rear. Second link, the camber kit is for the front.

[HardInThePaint]

Poly is more durable than rubber, doesn't wear out as easy or as fast. Rubber also tends to squeak sometimes and poly usually doesn't (especially if its silicone impregnated polyurethane). Rubber can give u some flex where as poly is more stiff. People usually go with polyurethane, depending on the application (whether u need the firmness of poly or need the flexiblitly of rubber). Just the duribility alone usually is reason enough to go with polyurethane.

[boostedlude3g]

Poly is more durable than rubber, doesn't wear out as easy or as fast. Rubber also tends to squeak sometimes and poly usually doesn't (especially if its silicone impregnated polyurethane). Rubber can give u some flex where as poly is more stiff. People usually go with polyurethane, depending on the application (whether u need the firmness of poly or need the flexiblitly of rubber). Just the duribility alone usually is reason enough to go with polyurethane.

I have polyurethane bushings on my prelude and the only time they make noise is when its really hot or really cold out side.

[CB7 R3ason]

is there any other decent camber kits than ingalls that are less expensive.....? also if ur lowering ur car 1.7 in the front and 1.5 in the back which camber would u buy first planning on buying both just not at the same time???

[boostedlude3g]

I am going with the ingalls in the front and the washer trick in the back. I have ingalls on my prelude and have had no issues with it.

[deevergote]

Ingalls and SPC are the only companies I'd trust with my life. A few dollars isn't worth the CONSIDERABLE added risk. If you don't hurt yourself or someone else when a cheap kit fails, you'll at least do MUCH more damage to your car than that difference in cost is saving you!

Many knowledgeable people trust the "washer trick" for the rear. I probably will myself. The only important thing to do is use automotive grade bolts... not wood bolts.

[HardInThePaint]

If ur raising and lowering ur car often (if u have coilovers or something) then I suggest getting a rear camber kit. But if ur going with springs and ur ride height is set then I would just throw the washers in. But like Deev said, use automotive grade bolts and u may or may not need to get slightly longer ones depending on how low u go and the how much camber correction u will need. I have gotten away with using stock length bolts with 3 washers in but its all up to u really.

[guaynabo89]

I agree DO NOT go with some off brand camber kit. SPC and Ingalls is all ive used on my Hondas.

Like stated before poly is stiffer than rubber and its basicly a preferance thing. Unless your tracking your car you wont notice the differance. Poly will squeak if not greased before install just like rubber. Rubber is usually noisier though.


Washer trick for the rear is ok. Just go to any auto/hardware store and make sure to get grade 8 or 10 hardware (longer bolts and properly sized washers). Only problem with the washer trick for the rear is you will have to get your car aligned and then come home and add washers until you think your where you want to be camber wise and then take it back to the aligment place.

Some aligment places might do this for you if they dont hae any other customers and charge you labor at 55-65 or whatever their going rate is.

"Most" aligment shops will not do the rear washer trick.


For the front either SPC's ball joint type or ingalls anchor bolt type will be fine. One thing to know about the SPC balljoint type is that it will reduce upper A arm clearance by about 1/2". What this means is that if your really low, or cut your bumpstops too much, or are using to light a spring when you bottom out now this bolt will hit the body. At 1.7 I dont think it should be a problem, but just so you know in advance.

The anchor type front kit doesnt have this problem, but doesnt have as much adjustment as some of the ball joint type. You can also slightly correct caster with these if your camber proble isnt too bad.

[HardInThePaint]

The anchor type front kit doesnt have this problem, but doesnt have as much adjustment as some of the ball joint type.

He will still have a problem with the anchor bolt style kit hitting the inner strut tower. All the anchor bolt kit does is move the entire UCA back and forth to adjust camber instead of the ball joint (as with the sliding ball joint kit). I've learned that its not so much the bolt that hits with the sliding ball joint kit (tho the bolt does add to the bullshit) but rather the extension of the ball joint plate or the UCA as with the anchor bolt kit. Basically u are gonna be hitting with either kit (depending on the amount of correction). The only remedy that I've know of to deal with this is to hammer out the shock tower where the hitting is occuring or get crazy and cut the section out. Or just keep a bit of negative camber up front is also an option.

[guaynabo89]

some ultry nice adjustable A arms kinda solve both problems.

A little pricey though and I personally dont know if they make em for the CB7

[deevergote]

Correcting the camber on a lowered car will ALWAYS result in the upper control arms hitting the fender, regardless of the type of camber kit used. You have to cut or bang out the area that they hit, or just deal with the impact and hope it doesn't damage your ball joint (or throw your alignment off.) Another way to avoid it is to run a bit of negative camber.

some ultry nice adjustable A arms kinda solve both problems.

A little pricey though and I personally dont know if they make em for the CB7

The adjustable arms for the CB7 are just aftermarket arms with an adjustable ball joint already installed. The only one I would trust comes from TASauto.com, and the joint they use is Ingalls. I have it on my car now.

In the future, please don't suggest parts that may not even exist. Otherwise, every noob that sees your post will be asking about parts that don't exist for their cars. Whatever you say on here can and will be read by others in the future, not just the person you're replying to. That's the point of this site.

[CB7 R3ason]

the funny thing about camber kits..... the camber kit cost more than the struts and springs combined....WTF....u might as well not lower ur car if you dont have the money to blow....!

[HardInThePaint]

the funny thing about camber kits..... the camber kit cost more than the struts and springs combined....

I'm assuming u mean the TASauto kit. Other than that a camber kit shouldn't run u more than $150 give or take. And if ur buying struts and springs for less than that ur either getting a hellava deal or must be on some bullshit suspension.

[deevergote]

PROPER struts and springs are going to cost at least $450 brand new. Cheap shit can be had for much less... but that's just stupid!

The anchor bolt style kits are the most affordable. They used to be like $100 or $150 a side, but I think they've come down quite a bit. The TASauto kit is still the best option, but as long as you buy Ingalls or SPC (either type), and install and adjust them properly, it should be plenty safe.

Those $50 kits on eBay will break... if they break, you crash... and you may die, and/or hurt someone else. If you can't afford to lower your car correctly, you can't afford to lower your car period. Move on to a different part of the car, or move on to a different car. Miatas are nice and low from the factory