1993 Accord Auto Died While Driving

[opiateofsorrow]

Hello all;


For the past few months I've been having an issue with my 93 accord, where I will go to start it, and it won't start up at all, it will chug and try to turn over but nothing. I wait about 30 seconds, and then it usually will start up after that.

I can hear a loud ticking noise from under my hood, coming from somewhere by the valve cover. to my knowledge it isn't my valves, because they were recently checked and adjusted. Someone mentioned to me that it may be my injectors.

I was driving through a bumpy back alley today, and all of a sudden the car just up and died. It sounded like there was a weird grinding-like sound that happened as soon as it died. When I tried to start it again, I would only hear like two chugs of the engine, as opposed to the constant chugging when i try to turn the engine over the times before. I checked all my grounds and connections to the alternator and distributor... When I put my foot down on the gas pedal, it began to show signs of life and tried starting, but still never made it. i could smell a strong smell of gas by the muffler.

I'm not getting any fault lights on my dash at all.

right now its parked and i walked home, any ideas?

[HardInThePaint]

I'll bump this cuz I know how frustrating shit can get...

[batever]

Quick thought: bad ignition switch. It can cut electrical power after the car is started or before.

Try removing the existing ignition switch and hotwiring the car to start it. If it starts, get a new ignition switch.

that doesn't explain the grinding or the ticking but I'd want to eliminate it as a possibility before looking at other stuff.

[AaronRVegas]

did you try to jump start it after it died? i would try that first.

the noise was probably coming from your distributor. that is right next to the valve cover and electricity can make a lot of noise.

check the starter. if it is going out it probably wont have enough juice to crank the engine. if you can get it to an auto parts store almost all of them will check your alt/battery/starter for free.

i would get out a multimeter and check your igniter and ignition coil. make sure the resistance is within proper boundaries. if either fails the checks replace them.

check to make sure your fuel pump is priming. have someone turn the key to the II while you have your ear next to the gas tank. you should hear a whirring sound if the fuel pump engages. if you do not hear the sound check the main relay to see if its bad. if it is good the fuel pump is probably to blame.

bat is right about the ignition switch. it can cause the car to cut off while driving and to not start if not working properly.

basically you have a lot of things to check. and you have to start somewhere. my philosophy is start with the easiest/cheapest and work to the hardest/most expensive.

[opiateofsorrow]

Hey guys even worse, timing belt broke and my engine is screwed. Problem solved lol.. Incentive to swap the turbo f22 vtec now!

[cb7pr]

Let me get this straight: did you adjust the valves yourself, or by someone else? If so, then how come either person didnt visually inspect that belt? You can usually tell when a belt needs changing...

[P5ylance]

hahahaha woww xD problem is very much solved! have fun with the swap!

[opiateofsorrow]

I adjusted them myself... and didn't check the belt blargh