1993 cb7 lx major oil leak HELP PLEASE

[batever]

Also, do a cylinder compresson check at the least and ideally a leakdown test as well before deciding your plan of action. If the results are good, no need to fully rebuild the engine, just do the seals. If the results indicate leakage, you''re gonna have to rebuilt the upper end of the engine anyways so that will at least tell you to go ahead and pull the engine from the car.

[86allday]

where can i get all of those seals in a package? i wanna trust ebay but are they any good? what is the highest mileage you have ever seen with a f22? cuz i wanna make this thing last hahaha

[904drACCORDMANG]

If your gonna pull the engine and do ALL the seals id go with honda all the way, alot of times you can find genuine kits with all seals and water pump on ebay, it will cost more but it will last almost forever.

And as far as the highest mileage ive seen on a cb7 is my own 90dx with 330k miles and it gets 160psi on every cylinder

[YK86]

If it's leaking oil that bad around the crank and below the cam, I have a feeling the front balanceshaft seal is wiggling its way off (happens alot on the Accord f22 motors which is why they started making a seal retainer). Plus if its got high k's, all the other seals are also probably going bad too.

This would be a great time to change all the seals (3 all together on the timing belt side, all 3 only costs around $30 total). The seal retainer from Honda is under $10 if I remember and it also comes with a dipstick o-ring.

Since there's so much oil flying around that area, regardless of whether it's been done recently or not, I would also change the timing belt and balanceshaft belt as oil is not good for those belts. Also the water pump if it hasn't been changed.

[86allday]

alright, thanks! you guys are alot of help. im gonna pull the motor, is it hard, is there anything i really have to pay attention to when i do it?

[YK86]

I assume this is your first time pulling the motor/tranny but hard or not depends on your skill level. The factory service manual and the How to on this site are great guides, so give those a good read so you are prepared.
Just take your time and be prepared to run into stuck bolts, stripped nuts, etc. Be extra careful when pulling out and dropping the motor back in as sensors and hoses can easily get caught/smacked on stuff.

While it's out, check all the coolant hoses as those can be a pain when they need to be changed and the motor is still in the car.

I also like giving the block and tranny a good wash to get rid of the grime from all the years of oil leaks and dust/road debris (make sure you plug all the holes so you don't get water inside the motor) and paint it. A bottle of Simple Green, a tooth brush, and $10 can of engine paint makes it look so much nicer when it's back in the car.

Here's a motor/tranny I did this spring for a friend. Same deal, bad oil leaks everywhere so I pulled the motor and tranny, changed all the seals, belts, hoses, etc and cleaned it up.

[JDMDriver]

As this is your first timing belt/seals job i suggest getting a Haynes or Chiltons manual if you dont already have one. Get this first to give you a good idea whats involved and the tools you will need.

High tool and knowledge curve if its your first and you dont have much tools.

Make sure you have another car to use for a while so your not in a hurry to fix this (you will make major mistakes under pressure) and you will need the other car to get additional unforseen tools or supplies from time to time. You will want to take it slow...real slow being careful.

As mentioned you will also need alot of special (or not commonly used tools) so make sure you have them before you start. It may be costly if you already dont have most of them. eg. Honda crank pulley holder, impact socket for the crank bolt (very tough and can split cheap sockets or even normal quality sockets), torque wrench, breaker bars, cheater bars, propane torch comes in handy, Power blaster spray, deep sockets, etc etc.

Lastly read and read and read to gain info and confidence before attempting. Get a feel of the requirements before committing.

[86allday]

You cleaned that motor up real nice lol but im gonna need all of those tools just to do all of those seals and gaskets? Its my first time pullin a motor out and i aint in a rush yet to drive it, i got my girls car i just want my car to run nice for a while or at least forever lol. Thanks guys for all your info

[batever]

You cleaned that motor up real nice lol but im gonna need all of those tools just to do all of those seals and gaskets? Its my first time pullin a motor out and i aint in a rush yet to drive it, i got my girls car i just want my car to run nice for a while or at least forever lol. Thanks guys for all your info

The only special tool you might need beyond a decent 3/8 inch socket, extension, and wrench set and a 1/2 inch breaker bar and 19mm impact socket for the crankshaft pulley bolt is for assisting in getting the crankshaft pulley bolt off, which means either a crankshaft pulley holder ($35 on amazon, or you may possibly find it as a loaner), an impact gun, or some method to hold the crankshaft still. In a pinch you can get cylinder #1's piston (or any other piston, for that matter, on an up-movement, about halfway before it reaches TDC, then pull the spark plug and stuff the chamber with nylon rope. The rope will stop the piston rising all the way and stop the crankshaft. Unless you have an impact gun, break the bolt free before you remove the engine so you can remove it easier with the engine off the car. Other ways are to jam the flywheel somehow.

Also, an engine hoist (rent it) and possibly a transmission jack or at the least two hydraulic floor jacks.

a 10-80 ft lb range torque wrench is good to have on hand for reassembly. Particularly for large gasket sealing surfaces with lots of fasteners around the rim, such as the oil pan and to a lesser extenst the valve cover.

[86allday]

is there a DIY on how to pull a motor?

[YK86]

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ght=f22+remove

[JDMDriver]

Besides the seals (timing belt area and rear seals) another common area for leaks is in between the fire wall.

The oil cooler seal lives there. In addition the oil sender unit for some have also been known to leak.

[86allday]

ok one thing i have noticed is that my car leaks oil ONLY when the car is on, but when the car is off, there is no leaking or anything, it just stops.. and i seem to have found a leak from under cam as i look down the back of the engine on the left side. so basically i got just unplug everything to do a swap right???

[87awwhelznaww92]

do you need to rip the motor out to change the seal?

i actually replaced this seal when i had to replace my auto tranny on my old cd7...it is a pain in the as to get to it but since i was replacing my auto tranny with a jdm one all it took was 6 12-point bolts,and that seal was right there...technically it was about 15 bucks n 4 hours labor since i did it my self and im a mechanic as well,how ever if you dont know what your doing and you try to get a mom/pop shop or the dealer your looking at about 400-500 job i think since the trans must come down for this seal to be replaced..i mean thats how much i would charge if i were to replace it.

[batever]

ok one thing i have noticed is that my car leaks oil ONLY when the car is on, but when the car is off, there is no leaking or anything, it just stops.. and i seem to have found a leak from under cam as i look down the back of the engine on the left side. so basically i got just unplug everything to do a swap right???

Don't even bother. If what you say is true, all you need to do is pull the timing cover and do the camshaft, crankshaft, and balance shaft seals and most or all of your problem is gone. No need to pull the engine for that--unless you want a project.