ticking ???

[blazedealh91]

okay so i had to replace the lower spark plug seals and did that and put it bake to geither and ticking
was told i have to adjust the srews on the rocker arms okay so i got the shim things to do it 25 and 30 i was told 25 intake and 30 exhaust
did it and still ticks wat do i do
i have the f22a6

[ExplodingCake]

Honda engines are notorious for ticks. Better than tap.

[Daddy D]

Make sure that the ticking isn't your injectors before you do heavy work. Our injectors are kinda loud when they are a lil old

[deevergote]

If your mechanical proficiency is anywhere near as good as your grasp on the English language, that might be your problem. Please, if you want help from intelligent human beings, type like one yourself. A simple spell check, using words that actually make sense, and generating a coherent message will get you the help you are asking for. Otherwise, the smart people will just assume you're an idiot, and not waste their time. The idiots will gladly help you... but they are, well... idiots. We have plenty of them aroune here.

Now, 25 and 30 WHAT? What unit of measurement are you talking about here? What tool are you using to get these measurements? The "shim things" doesn't tell us anything. You might as well slip into a pair of 6" heels, bleach your hair, and call everything "the thingy".

Assuming you're talking about a feeler gauge, and measuring in milimeters, what is the process that you are following? Are you using a manual, or just sticking in the 'shim thingies' and cranking away at the screws?

Here is a fairly detailed writeup that I found with minimal searching. The author, HondaFan81, is EXTREMELY knowledgeable, especially when it comes to mechanical restoration and maintenance. You'd be wise to follow any information he provides.

I did this not long ago on my F22a4. Same specs.

intake .010"

exhaust .012"


Do this valve lash adjustment with engine cold (100 deg F or less)Remove spark plug boots, you can remove the spark plugs to make it easier to turn the crank by hand. Remove valve cover, be careful with gasket if you're going to reuse it (or get new). Remove distributor cap to get a visual on the rotor. Jack up front of car (2 jackstands needed) enough to get tires off ground. Remove front-driver wheel. You will notice a hole in the plastic fenderliner that has access to the crank pulley bolt (19mm). Use a 1/2" wratchet and 6" extension or so. Turn the crank in counter-clockwise direction (natural engine motion), until you see the backside of the cam pulley with the ARROW mark pointing up in 12-oclock position...then look to see if your rotor is at # 1 spark plug terminal and check the flywheel hole (pull flywheel peek-hole plug) and see if the WHITE line is in-line with the block pointer in there). If it all don't match up, keep turning the crank until you have the ARROW on back of cam hear at 12-oclock again, then check again. This is TDC on compression stroke of # 1 piston.

Then, go check valve lash on both the intake and exhaust valves on just the # 1 cylinder. Set them accordingly, 2 intake and 2 exhaust valves. Then, turn the crank 180 degrees in counterclockwise direcdtion and the cam pulley will have the ARROW on the backside of it pointing toward the exhaust manifold. This is TDC at # 3 cylinder. Now check/adjust the # 2 cylinder intake & exhaust valves.

Turn crank 180 deg again. Cam pulley ARROW pointing down at 6-oclock now. This is # 4 TDC. Check & adjust.

Turn crank 180 deg again. Cam pulley ARROW pointing toward intake manifold now. This is # 2 TDC. Check & adjust.

You will need a feeler-gauge, flathead screw driver and 10mm combo wrench (or 12mm...crap I forget on that). You'll figure that out. I'm leaning on 10mm.

To adjust the valve lash...put the flathead scewdriver onto the set screw, then hold the nut that's around the set screw with the 10mm combo wrench. Then, loosen the nut, while holding screw in place. Loosen the screw until you can slip the feeler gauge (set to either .010" or .012") and when you can slide it back and forth with a slight drag...then HOLD the screw in that exact spot, while you tighten the nut with combo wrench. Re-check your valve lash because as you tighten the nut, you may have set it a lil tighter..if you let the screw move. It's a job where you wish you had 3 hands, but you can manage. I was glad this was a 4 cylinder is all i kept saying to myself. When you set the nut, make sure you tighten it good...real snug, but not like red-faced about to take a crap in ur pants scenario.

Torque the valve cover nuts back or just go by feel...it's 7 lb-ft or 84 in-lbs I believe. Reconnect everything. Make sure you remove all tools (including the wratchet on the crank bolt & put wheel back on and set to ground) and reconnect everything back, etc before you start ur engine. Don't get ahead of urself. Double check if you have to.

*EDITED to 1-3-4-2 firing order, I had a brain fart*

Also, what weight oil are you using? The oil you use can also contribute to valve ticking.

[Daddy D]

I like when smart people help. I learned something new today myself. Thanks deev

[deevergote]

Smart people don't waste their time helping those that don't seem smart enough to understand what they said... it's a valuable lesson, not only on this forum, but in life in general. The only people that take their time to teach morons are getting paid to do it.

[92smokeaccord]

okay so i had to replace the lower spark plug seals and did that and put it bake to geither and ticking
was told i have to adjust the srews on the rocker arms okay so i got the shim things to do it 25 and 30 i was told 25 intake and 30 exhaust
did it and still ticks wat do i do
i have the f22a6

did u align the rockerarm assembley when u put it back together?if not that could also be ur tickin noise.