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I replaced the TPS, but I can't get any voltage to show up

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    I replaced the TPS, but I can't get any voltage to show up

    I replaced the TPS in my 90 Accord EX, and I cant seem to get the volts to show up to tune it. I turned the key to the ACC slot (the radio came on), and I connected a paper clip to the green wire. I hooked it up to the multimeter (with the black going to the car ground), and I couldn't get any voltage to show up. I also tried hooking it up with with the green and red wires, but still nothing. Is there some trick I might need to know in order to get the volts so I can tune it properly? Your help is appreciated! If you need to know anything I've forgotten, just let me know.

    #2
    did u turn it to get voltagE?

    if you tapped the other lines for voltage and you got nothing then you have an issue. The unit is supposed to have a 5v reference line from the ecu. If you dont have that then your problem was probably not the TPS at all. But from the ecu somewhere.
    What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

    You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

    Retro!

    Hater

    I love nooBs...They make me look good

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      #3
      Not to sound dumb, but, you hooked the plug to the TPS back up?

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        #4
        Hmm...well I figured something out. I checked the line going to the TPS for voltage, and that had a nice solid 5v, so I knew that wasn't the problem. I then hooked my paper clip up to the 5v line, and I didn't get anything! Turns out I was using a paper clip that wasn't conductive! So, I'm gonna find a different paper clip (one that works), and I'll see how that goes.

        Oh, btw, I know for sure that at least the TPS was bad, because it was broken in half!

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          #5
          Well, I got it working, and I tested it with the multimeter, and it came out to .5v idle and 4.5v wide open. Now when I turn the car on, it idles at 2500 rpms. What would be the easiest way to fix this? Would it work fine to simply turn the idle rpms down? Or is there another way that I could do this that would work better? Also, it's really squeaking now, even while it's running. Before, it would be a little squeaky on startup, but after a couple seconds, it would stop. Does anybody know what might cause this?

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            #6
            squeak is a loose belt, or worn out belt, usually worn out.

            as for your idle, turn it down with the idle adjustment screw. Its right there next to the tps and the throttle body. Also with all that stuff fixed, reset the ecu.
            What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

            You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

            Retro!

            Hater

            I love nooBs...They make me look good

            Comment


              #7
              1) Your squeak is most likely your alternator belt that needs to be tightened, based on your description.

              2) I'm not confident you set the TPS properly. You must set the TPS voltage to 0.45V with engine off and throttle body closed, not at idle.

              - Engine off.
              - All electrical connections must be intact.
              - Turn ignition key to "II".
              - Follow TPS wires to front-driver shock tower area large connecter (~ 8 pins).
              - Locate the red w/black stripe wire at this connecter.
              - Leave connection intact, back probe with one multimeter terminal. This connection may take some tinkering to make, until multimeter reads out.
              - Put other multimeter terminal to negative battery post.
              - Turn multimeter to voltage mode (above 5V range).
              - Loosen TPS screws and adjust, until it reads 0.45V with throttle body closed.
              - Snug TPS screws, open throttle body and make sure multimeter readings move smoothly to WOT.
              - WOT should be 4.5V or more.
              - Remove all your equipment, turn ignition key off.
              - I recommend following the DIY sticky base idle set procedure next. If necessary, follow up with DIY sticky base ignition timing procedure.
              HondaFan81 For Sale Parts (LOW PRICES ON EVERYTHING)

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                #8
                Hello, thanks for the response! HondaFan81, when I said I set it at idle, that was a typo. i set it at 0.5V closed, so it should be right. I looked at the sticky article you refered to earlier, and I went through those steps, and I couldn't get it to idle less than 900 RPM with the IACV disconnected. Based on that article, that means I likely have a vacuum leak, right? If that is the problem, is that something that can be repaired fairly easily? Does it take any special tools? Or would it be better to just take it to the shop where they know what they are doing? Would it be an expensive repair? Sorry for all the questions, but if you could answer most of them, it would be extremely helpful. Thanks!

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