h22 rods n piston in a f22

[cb2slo]

alright ima get to the point i got a f22b1 block stock internal an a f22a1 head i just boosted it n a few weeks later i started blowin white smoke from my breather an exhaust.i waited a couple of days later n did a compression test n it said that i had 3 bad cylinder so im guessing that i fried my rings.an my question to ya is can i put h22a4 piston n rods on my f22b1 without having to bore it out or anything an do anyone know were the compression will sit if it does fit thanks for the help =]

[deevergote]

White smoke is coolant. It's more likely that you blew your head gasket, and possibly warped your head. If you blew the rings, or more likely, the ringlands (they're relatively weak, and are often the first things to blow with a turbo setup) then you'd be burning oil. Blowing BLUE smoke.

When you swapped heads, did you use a new head gasket? Was it a quality gasket, or the cheapest you could find? Did you properly torque the head bolts (correct order AND torque)?
What size turbo are you running? What size intercooler? What are you doing for fuel management? Are you monitoring your air/fuel ratio and exhaust gas temperature?

Excessive heat caused by a small turbo, insufficient intercooling, or a poor tune could easily cause the head gasket to blow out. Enough heat would warp the head. Improperly torquing the head bolts (assuming you're still using bolts) would also do it. As would using an inferior head gasket.


Now, to shed some light on your question (though I HIGHLY doubt that's the solution you need...) Check your bore sizes. That will answer your question.

[Nyne521]

yea... when i fried my piston rings i thought it was a blown head gasket at first but the color of the smoke and the fact that my exhaust was actually spitting out oil gave it away... if your not sure about it turn it on and rev it to like 3k once and look behind the car if you see blue smoke and/or there is oil behind your car its the piston rings, if its just some water and/or white smoke its the head gasket

[deevergote]

Oil smells thick, very distinctive. Coolant smells sweet, also very distinctive.




Also, if you already blew something on your F22A (which has very low compression...) why on earth are you interested in swapping in H22A pistions that will be just as fragile, and offer higher compression (which means you'll probably nuke them even faster...)?

[cb2slo]

White smoke is coolant. It's more likely that you blew your head gasket, and possibly warped your head. If you blew the rings, or more likely, the ringlands (they're relatively weak, and are often the first things to blow with a turbo setup) then you'd be burning oil. Blowing BLUE smoke.

When you swapped heads, did you use a new head gasket? Was it a quality gasket, or the cheapest you could find? Did you properly torque the head bolts (correct order AND torque)?
What size turbo are you running? What size intercooler? What are you doing for fuel management? Are you monitoring your air/fuel ratio and exhaust gas temperature?

Excessive heat caused by a small turbo, insufficient intercooling, or a poor tune could easily cause the head gasket to blow out. Enough heat would warp the head. Improperly torquing the head bolts (assuming you're still using bolts) would also do it. As would using an inferior head gasket.


Now, to shed some light on your question (though I HIGHLY doubt that's the solution you need...) Check your bore sizes. That will answer your question.

i havent taken apart my motor yet im waiting on all my parts to get in at once so i dont lose anything.all i kno is that that white smoke is coming out nothing blue or any thing of that sort. the car only came with a boost gauge i just ordered me a wideband so i can monitor that i dont kno to much about the car because i acquired it from a trade.an when i look at the exhaust its kinda has oil around it dont quote me on it but its what i think it might be. if needed i can post up pics of the car. n the turbo is a TD05 n the ecu is a haltech ecu idk who tuned it.

[deevergote]

Your car is red, isn't it...

[chessboxer]

God, my old car doesnt deserve this.

1- the car has a wideband, a haltech wideband, integrated into the ecu. you just need a gauge.
2-the car works on a closed loop o2 system using the 0-5v calibration of the haltech wideband, remove it and the car will not run as good. if you hook another wideband into it with a different 0-5v calibration/output/correspnding afr to each voltage it will run like complete shit and blow again. so, if you do replace the wideband in it, either disable the o2 input or input the correct calibration into the ecu via the ecu manager software.

good luck, and i fully expect this to be for sale on vadriven again very soon.

[cb2slo]

God, my old car doesnt deserve this.

1- the car has a wideband, a haltech wideband, integrated into the ecu. you just need a gauge.
2-the car works on a closed loop o2 system using the 0-5v calibration of the haltech wideband, remove it and the car will not run as good. if you hook another wideband into it with a different 0-5v calibration/output/correspnding afr to each voltage it will run like complete shit and blow again. so, if you do replace the wideband in it, either disable the o2 input or input the correct calibration into the ecu via the ecu manager software.

good luck, and i fully expect this to be for sale on vadriven again very soon.

nah i dont think im getting rid of it i like it as it came i just dont like some of the retarded wholes n the messed up wiring harness that look like a rats nest other than that its fixable

[deevergote]

Any major issues are a result of the idiot who had it previously, not the guy that built it. chessboxer knows his stuff, and built that car right. The Haltech ECU is there primarily because he worked for Haltech at the time. The kid he traded it to managed to destroy it in about 2 weeks. I hope you didn't trade anything good for it, because that whole car needs a good deal of work now. (there's a reason chess didn't want it back when he had the chance... such a shame, as that WAS a beautiful car... it was even featured in the 2008 CB7tuner.com calendar.)

Good luckwith it. I don't recommend bombarding chessboxer with a million questions... he didn't want to be bothered fixing it himself, so I don't think he's going to want to tell you how to fix it... but if you post up all your questions here with as much detail as possible (pictures are ALWAYS good), then he MIGHT be nice and offer some advice when he can.

make us proud, kid. Bring that car back to life, they way it SHOULD be.

[foamypirate]

Is sad day, ja?

[cb2slo]

Is sad day, ja?

It is pretty Damn sad just cuz I owned the car for 2 days n shit wanna happen lol....well what do ya suggest just to get. Whole new motor or build the one that's in the car??

[deevergote]

Either way, you're going to have to learn something about a turbo Honda. Engine building, that turbo setup, that Haltech ECU... it's a pretty steep learning curve for someone that doesn't seem to know very much about such things (no offense intended.)
It's a shame. You pretty much got scammed, because it was well known that the car was seriously abused the minute it left chessboxer's possession. I don't think the guy he traded it to has shown his face around here since, knowing he's lost the respect of any one that knows what he did. Now that it was passed to you (and I assume these problems weren't mentioned), it's even worse.

First, we need to determine exactly what the problem actually is. Regardless, that engine has to either come out, or at least come apart. It was built on a stock block for relatively low boost, and tuned for such. The boost was cranked up by the second owner, and that's what blew it up. The stock internals are fairly weak, and not made for that.

If you want to drop a couple thousand into the motor, you have a turbo setup capable of making some pretty serious power. You'll need forged internals, and it would be wise to install some Darton or Golden Eagle sleeves. Doing some machine work to the head would also be very beneficial, especially since it's possible that it's been warped (so having it shaved slightly by a machine shop to return it to being completely flat may be necessary.)
Then, of course, you're going to need to have that ECU retuned.

My advice... find a cheap F22A that's in good shape. Drop it in there, and run low boost. It may not last very long, but it'll last. Don't beat on it.
While the current motor is out, build it.

In the meantime, RESEARCH. Learn all you can about this stuff. The more you know, the faster you go... and the less likely you'll be to blow up your car.

I'd start with this site's Forced Induction section, www.homemadeturbo.com, www.pgmfi.org (to understand ECU tuning), and the books Honda/Acura Engine Performance by Mike Kojima, and Maximum Boost by Corky Bell.

[cb2slo]

Either way, you're going to have to learn something about a turbo Honda. Engine building, that turbo setup, that Haltech ECU... it's a pretty steep learning curve for someone that doesn't seem to know very much about such things (no offense intended.)
It's a shame. You pretty much got scammed, because it was well known that the car was seriously abused the minute it left chessboxer's possession. I don't think the guy he traded it to has shown his face around here since, knowing he's lost the respect of any one that knows what he did. Now that it was passed to you (and I assume these problems weren't mentioned), it's even worse.

First, we need to determine exactly what the problem actually is. Regardless, that engine has to either come out, or at least come apart. It was built on a stock block for relatively low boost, and tuned for such. The boost was cranked up by the second owner, and that's what blew it up. The stock internals are fairly weak, and not made for that.

If you want to drop a couple thousand into the motor, you have a turbo setup capable of making some pretty serious power. You'll need forged internals, and it would be wise to install some Darton or Golden Eagle sleeves. Doing some machine work to the head would also be very beneficial, especially since it's possible that it's been warped (so having it shaved slightly by a machine shop to return it to being completely flat may be necessary.)
Then, of course, you're going to need to have that ECU retuned.

My advice... find a cheap F22A that's in good shape. Drop it in there, and run low boost. It may not last very long, but it'll last. Don't beat on it.
While the current motor is out, build it.

In the meantime, RESEARCH. Learn all you can about this stuff. The more you know, the faster you go... and the less likely you'll be to blow up your car.

I'd start with this site's Forced Induction section, www.homemadeturbo.com, www.pgmfi.org (to understand ECU tuning), and the books Honda/Acura Engine Performance by Mike Kojima, and Maximum Boost by Corky Bell.

thanks man this reali helps out alot...but yea the previous owner didnt reali say shit about the car n what not n just said that chessbox built the car n what not told me the little to few things he knew about the car. my plan was just to build another motor its just that the haltech ecu confuses the shit outta me =/ so any info about that will help out ALOT =]. ill have pics posted up when i start to pull the motor out i just dont wanna start pulling shit off an end up losing parts.do any1 kno were i can get the haltech software. i believe that the owner b4 me drove the car hittin boost every chance he got =/....isnt it cheaper just to get my hands on another f22 than goin threw the process of getting my head milled/resurface n what not? an would it be wise for me to swap all the mods in the head over to the spare motor or should i just invest in brand new parts?

[cloudasc]

It would probably be better/cheaper to just pick up an f22ax out of the junkyard, the only problem is, you have no idea what condition the engine is in, you'll probably want to replace every seal on the motor, and change the waterpump & timing belt.

Honestly, how long to you plan on keeping the car? If you only plan on keeping it for a year, then just swap a junkyard block and run low boost, otherwise if your in it for the long haul / commited, it would be better to do a full rebuild on what you already have. Bore the block to 86mm & slap some Bisimoto forged pistons & rods, unrestrict the exhaust ports of the head, new rings, bearings. Tow it to a respectable local tuner, and have them break in the new motor and tune it on the dyno for you. Afterwards don't mess with any performance modifications without seeing your tuner first.

Good Luck! Hopefully you'll do the right thing and give the car the love it deserves.

[deevergote]

thanks man this reali helps out alot...but yea the previous owner didnt reali say shit about the car n what not n just said that chessbox built the car n what not told me the little to few things he knew about the car. my plan was just to build another motor its just that the haltech ecu confuses the shit outta me =/ so any info about that will help out ALOT =]. ill have pics posted up when i start to pull the motor out i just dont wanna start pulling shit off an end up losing parts.do any1 kno were i can get the haltech software. i believe that the owner b4 me drove the car hittin boost every chance he got =/....isnt it cheaper just to get my hands on another f22 than goin threw the process of getting my head milled/resurface n what not? an would it be wise for me to swap all the mods in the head over to the spare motor or should i just invest in brand new parts?

You'd be smartest to get a replacement motor, put it in there, drive with low boost, and be careful. Old stock motors aren't made for boost. Even better, remove the turbo stuff for now.

In the meantime, build the one that you have in there now. Pull it out, build it properly.


Stock-block boost projects are risky, and best left to people that REALLY know what they're doing. Chessboxer knows what he's doing, and the car ran fine for him. The minute he sold it to someone that didn't know a damn thing, it was toast. If you just slap in another engine and expect things to be fine... you'll see the same result as Christian.


Also, please type like a normal human being. You're not txting your girlfriend, you're talking to experienced enthusiasts, many of whom are highly educated and much older than you. Please show us a bit of respect, and we will gladly help you. Continue typing like an ignorant child, and we will simply assume you are an idiot, and silently mourn the slow death of this once-respected vehicle.