So i'm sure it has been posted before. I just could not find anything. My passenger upper control arm ball joint boot is torn. I was wondering if anybody knew of any aftermarket companies that made upper control arms, or companies that sell replaceable ball joints since honda makes you buy a whole new upper control arm with the ball joint already installed? Correct me if i'm wrong, it's just what somebody told me. Any suggestions?
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Upper Control Arm
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http://www.tasauto.com/
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories
TASauto and I know Ebay sells them. U might as well just by the entire UCA tho, save u the trouble of having the old ball joint pressed out and the new one installed.
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostI'd be wary of pressing it in. The band of metal holding it in place is fairly thin, and I wouldn't want to subject it to extra strain.
If you notice, Honda only sells entire arms, not replacement upper ball joints. There's a reason for it.
Fact of the matter is, I just went thru this myself ..
MUCH better buying the whole UCA .. trust us ..
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Tomi, did you have a ball joint slip out, or that band break?
I've never known it to actually happen... it's just not something I ever want to see happen! That's one reason I wouldn't get the Ingalls or SPC adjustable ball joints, without getting a new joint-less control arm (basically, the TASauto unit)
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostTomi, did you have a ball joint slip out, or that band break?
I've never known it to actually happen... it's just not something I ever want to see happen! That's one reason I wouldn't get the Ingalls or SPC adjustable ball joints, without getting a new joint-less control arm (basically, the TASauto unit)
and I just got both .. fuck it .. I'm all good now!
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I have seen horrors regarding people changing the balljoints instead of the whole upper arm assembly.
1] Slip out. The original grip is not there anymore
2] Slip out. The original grip is not there anymore
and
3] Slip out. The original grip is not there anymore
You don't want your brake rotors having buttsecks with the pavement.
1993 Honda Accord LX 2004-2009
1996 Honda Civic LX 2009-2012
2012 Kia Optima LX 2012-2013
2010 Honda Accord EX-L V6 2013-2018
2007 Honda Fit Sport 2017-2017
2018 Honda Accord EX-L 2.0T 2018-20XX
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostI'd be wary of pressing it in. The band of metal holding it in place is fairly thin, and I wouldn't want to subject it to extra strain.
If you notice, Honda only sells entire arms, not replacement upper ball joints. There's a reason for it.
Look at the number of Honda Challenge cars running replaced Upper Balljoints. If the guys that run in those races trust and use them, then I'm pretty sure it's good enough for the street.
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i did both complete arms in about an hour the other night. its only 3 nuts per side, not counting the nut covers and tightening the bushing bolts.
way easier to just swap out the whole arm. besides, it has new bushings too, in case your old ones are worn.
we sell the parts separately at NAPA. but for the amount of work/time saved replacing the whole arm is the only way to go.
gives you the assurance that all new parts are on your car. no second guessing whether or not your old arm will hold up for the long term....
Bought from: Bisimoto, FuncOvrForm, HondaGuy1212, wed3k, Konigstiger, 1st2run, BillKisme, k-mart, benjerman112
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Originally posted by Tnwagn View PostIt's called profitability
Look at the number of Honda Challenge cars running replaced Upper Balljoints. If the guys that run in those races trust and use them, then I'm pretty sure it's good enough for the street.
Also, how many of those cars are Accords? How many of the other cars have similar setups?
And profitability? Really?
Then why do they sell the lower ball joint separately, and not only in the full assembly? Why can you buy a TPS, instead of the entire throttle body with it already installed?
I understand what you're saying... but it's a weak argument. Not to mention, the fact that Honda only sells the arm and joint together is only PART of my reasoning. The other is that it takes a good deal of force to get a ball joint in and out of the arm, and the metal holding it in place is fairly thin. This is a very important load bearing part of the car. One that can kill you if it fails. Do you really think it is wise to do something that may compromise the integrity of such an important part?
If you save $100 by replacing the joints only... is that worth the risk? If you crash and get injured, would you be thankful that you saved that $100? I sure as hell wouldn't be. I'll pay a little extra to ensure that I don't get injured or killed, injure or kill someone else, or damage my car.
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So which setup have you guys used from TAS?
This setup- http://www.tasauto.com/Product/Detai...100&d=1717&p=1
or this setup- http://www.tasauto.com/Product/Detai...805&d=1717&p=1
The second link is obviously adjustable and more money. Just trying to get an idea of what everybody is using here? Anybody using the 2nd kit?
I definitely am not gonna go with pressing the joint in myself into the arm. Thinking about it, if i'm gonna do it i'm gonna do it right. Thats why i really like the second link from TAS since no camber kit is needed with that setup, especially with lowering.
From what i've noticed on TAS website is that they also sell just the uppers L/H & R/H seperately, without the lower ball joint included, but it would be nice to just do it all at once, the complete kit and be sure it's done right.'91 DX 4dr, brown on brown
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostI'd be wary of pressing it in. The band of metal holding it in place is fairly thin, and I wouldn't want to subject it to extra strain.
If you notice, Honda only sells entire arms, not replacement upper ball joints. There's a reason for it.'91 DX 4dr, brown on brown
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Originally posted by HardInThePaint View PostI've had several sliding ball joint kits installed and haven't had any problems with them. But I completely understand the concern with the metal weakening. Only takes one time. But this time around I opted for the anchor bolt kit. Now I don't have to trip on it at all.'91 DX 4dr, brown on brown
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