No Torque? Low power output

[DunKrS]

First Post! =)
I just bought a 91 accord 4dr ex 5 speed today from a family friend for $1000
200K miles. Fresh timing belt job. The car has been sitting for almost 3 years but starts and runs well.

When taking off from a stop sign/light, after the clutch is fully engaged and I begin to accelerate, the car lacks any sort of power at all from 650~2750, after that, it takes off quite quickly. I timed the car not long ago after I offered to clean it up and do some maintenance a few weeks back because I worried that was the problem. But I've heard that if the timing belt is a tooth off, sometimes this will be the result? But I've also heard that it would barely run if the timing belt was off even a tooth. I'm mechanically inclined, and refuse to do anything half assed. The car idles smoothly at 650rpms, and drives normal and makes no fuss as far as anything else goes, just the lack of power.
Any help would be appreciated!
-Derek

[4thgentuner]

culd be the distributor
or maybe plugs or wires, did u do the tune up also?

(autozone can check your icm for free if its the problem)

[royalaccord92]

It could also be the o2 sensor, but I would check plugs and wires first. Like he said ^^^^ Umm one more thought...fuel filter?

[ExplodingCake]

Needs tune-up

[DunKrS]

well, I wouldn't suspect stuff like plugs and wires to affect the car so adversely. But I won't rule it out. As for a fuel filter, I would expect that to get progressively worse as fuel consumption (and speed) increased. But it's only from 650 to around 2500-3250 that I have a lack of power. I'm going to resolder my main relay tomorrow, because it doesn't like to start sometimes. My 88 Lx-i had the same issue, no clicking and such when the key is turned on.
I'm still wondering if the guy who did the timing belt didn't get a tooth off. But because I've never seen or heard a car with such an ailment, it's hard to give a positive diagnosis.
Thanks for the suggestions! Keep them coming!
-Derek

[JDMDriver]

I think it can also mean your clutch is now worn out.

It may be slipping and requiring a change.

Its a major job and something you hope is not the case so perhaps try all of the other fixes first (hopeing that they work) before opening up the clutch to check if its worn.

[foamypirate]

I think it can also mean your clutch is now worn out.

It may be slipping and requiring a change.

Its a major job and something you hope is not the case so perhaps try all of the other fixes first (hopeing that they work) before opening up the clutch to check if its worn.

The OP sounds like he's smart enough to know whether or not the clutch is slipping, and based on his description, it isn't.

I think I've read somewhere that clogged EGR ports can cause a low-end bog, but I'm not positive on that one.

[cb7remnant]

do a stall test on the car it might be the stator inside the torque converter not spinning, if it dose not work it could cause your car to do that (stator is torque multiplier at cruise it is a 9/10:1 ration with the rest of the converter so not that much torque)

[Wolfamongsheep8]

do a stall test on the car it might be the stator inside the torque converter not spinning, if it dose not work it could cause your car to do that (stator is torque multiplier at cruise it is a 9/10:1 ration with the rest of the converter so not that much torque)

he said it was a standard so he wouldn't have a torque converter.

OP: I have no idea what could do that. is it throwing a code at all?

[DunKrS]

haha, nooo, the clutch doesn't slip. and no, it's not an automatic, this is an engine problem, once you're underway, and keep the rpms above 2250, it drives just fine, shifts just fine, no clutch slip.

Something feels boggy. Realllllllyyyy boggy. I took off up a hill today from a stop, after I had the clutch fully engaged, I put the pedal to the floor and got to a whopping 5mph up the hill because it didn't have enough power to get through the bog.

And then to top it all off, I checked the plugs (looked new) and decided to see if I had a weak cylinder (mostly was just messing around). I unplugged 1 spark plug wire at a time. (I had a car with a half firing spark plug once and it caused an intermittent vibration and using this method helped find the cause of the problem) and I started with plug wire #1 and made it to spark plug wire #2 and once I got it unplugged, the car died. =/ And wouldn't start again. My main relay has been acting up so I pulled it apart tonight and resoldered all the joints (visibly cracked =S) and now it clicks consistently as it should. And still no vroom vroom. I'm going to disconnect all the electrical, pack them all with dielectric grease and reconnect everything

It throws no codes, the timing is set perfectly, and it's got fresh clean gas. I still wonder if the timing belt was done correctly, the guy who did it is one of my Dad's sketchy friends, and he also left the timing belt cover off.

As always all input is appreciated, and I'm glad to see such a response to my query, not all forums are so responsive, or helpful.
Thanks
-Derek

[cb7remnant]

he said it was a standard so he wouldn't have a torque converter.

OP: I have no idea what could do that. is it throwing a code at all?

hahah woops my bad

[Wolfamongsheep8]

did you have the plug wire grounded? if not you destroyed your ignition coil...trust me, i did it twice until i was told by a honda master tech that if you dont ground the plug wires while cranking, the path of least resistance is right back into your ignition coil...honda got a few things very right; the first being VTEC, the second being a high powered ignition system and, the third being the NSX (IMO)

[DunKrS]

Okay, so I have a solid CEL... I've checked both fuses, I've got fuel. But no spark, I followed the chilton's manuals procedure for checking the ignitor and ignition coil. Both of which checked out as they should. I'm lost.. I even got a different ECU to try from my neighbor, No Dice. Help me? lol I'm slightly discouraged today. I know I'll get it figured out, It's just a matter of when.
-Derek

[DunKrS]

Well, while I was bored and kinda sick of troubleshooting, I decided to check the valve timing. 2 teeth off... so I fixed that, and then I had a break through! I pulled the distributor off and left the wires connected. Turned the rotor and I could hear clicking. Looked down inside the base of the distributor, and I could see light flashing. Bought a new coil, fired right back up. So my CB has been back on the road. and it's sporting a new set of wheels and tires as of yesterday!

[IMG][/IMG]

[rave93]

nice im glad you were able to sort out the problem. hate having to deal with those type of issues