Announcement

Collapse
1 of 2 < >

ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!

Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956

Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
2 of 2 < >

Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)

Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.

These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.

1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.

2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.

3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.

4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.

The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.

The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
See more
See less

Brake Performance issues

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Brake Performance issues

    When I acquired my cb7, it had horrible brakes which would give up after holding the brake pedal down after about 30 seconds. The car would begin to creep forward unless I kept pushing on the pedal harder, until it would eventually be on the floor.

    We replaced the master cylinder and the problem pretty much went away. However, for some reason I have brakes that are not consistent. Sometimes my brake pedal will be very soft and sometimes it will be firm.

    Is this a problem with the master cylinder or something else? My rear brakes are pretty useless. After we adjusted them, they worked great when using the parking brake, but after a while they get loose again.

    When I have the car raised and put it in gear, the wheels will begin spinning, as expected. When I slightly step on the brakes, the front left brake will stop and the other will keep spinning. When I step a little harder the left brake will begin spinning again, and the right will keep spinning. After applying more pressure to the brakes they will finally stop spinning. Is this an issue with the brake caliper or is this still related to the master cylinder?

    Thanks in advance.

    #2
    It sounds to me as if you may need to completely bleed the system until there is no old fluid left . Contaminants and tiny air bubbles can cause the fluid to lose it's hydraulic properties. Grab a quart or two of fluid, a good friend and start the bleeding process.

    Comment


      #3
      sounds to me like your metering valve isn't working right (thats what would make your rear brakes apply before the front disk ones do) how dirty is the fluid it could have gunk in.

      Originally posted by deevergote
      He's disappointed in my bulge... it doesn't even come close to being as impressive as his.
      1990 Accord EX
      1996 Civic hatch *gone*
      1994 Integra

      Comment


        #4
        Alright, well I guess I will be bleeding the brakes this weekend. Thanks.

        Comment


          #5
          Would anyone recommend changing the hardware, wheel cylinder and the master cylinder to alleviate these issues?

          Comment


            #6
            Flush, lube slide pins
            wat?

            Comment


              #7
              If it were me, Id get all new brake lines, completely bleed the system, and replace the master cylinder and check the metering valve. That may be overkill..but brakes aren't something I wouldnt want working 100% all the time.

              You could have a hole in one of your lines causing air to get in....
              1993 Accord LX *Under construction*
              http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=162083 <---MRT

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks for the tips guys. I flushed all of the old fluid out. It came out almost black initially, but now it is coming out clean. I will be replacing the hardware in the rear brakes as I am assuming the adjusters are not working properly anymore.

                Where can I find the metering valve?

                Also, would anyone recommend or feel comfortable using these parts to overhaul the rear brakes?

                http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...Rear/_/N-8kolj
                http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...=78248_0_4277_
                Last edited by 415cb7; 06-29-2010, 09:15 AM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  So i ended up purchasing new adjusters and springs from a local brake shop. The dealer actually sent me there, since it was $200+ for the parts there, and actually ended up paying less than $50 at the brake shop.

                  After driving over 700 miles with the new hardware, I started to get the same feeling of spongy and firm brakes. Today I decided to replace the master cylinder. Instead of feeling firm, as I wanted it to, I ended up with a very soft pedal. I bench bled the MC and bled each wheel as well. I am at a loss here. I'm hoping I don't have to replace any brake lines or the metering valve. There is a thread on here, about this topic, but it was never finished. Anyone have any advice? Thanks

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X