Accord Euro R intake manifold question...
Where do I connect all my vacum lines? It seems with the Accord Euro R intake manifold its short some vacum ports. I have a skunk2 TB with the Accord Euro R manifold. And when I Satrt to plug all the vacum lines back in I have like Five lines left over that have no ports on the intake manifold to plug into. Please help me. Thanks
-
-
just start usin some t's....works great -
Which TPS sensor do I need to use?
The Accord Euro R Intake manifold has been installed. but having issues with idling and bogging and burning oil from the exaust. The accord Euro R intake manifold is not a bolt on after all this I'm dealing with.Comment
-
Use the tps off your old f22 TB. Use a voltmeter and make sure its within specs. Should be around .45v when closed and 4.5v when fully open. If thats within specs, then you probably need to readjust your idle with the IACV. Bogging could be a few things...You need to remember that when you make a mod and add THAT much more air flow into the system, its not gonna run perfect without some tuning. Is oil burning ON the exhaust or THROUGH the exhaust......? Dont know what you couldve done doin the IM swap for oil to start leak THROUGH the exhaust......Comment
-
Looks like the TPS off my old TB was still good. I had to reset my Apexi Neo Controller. But I still have a bogging when I leave my car in Drive(Note my cb7 is an automatic). It seems like my car in not able to shift down. But when I manually shift as in going from 1st to Drive I hull ass.
Also the check engine light came on. But right now I'm to tired to check for the error code that its giving. I will look into it tomorrow. Oh and I still have idling issues. Even though I hooked up all my vacuum lines and idle control valve. What else can I do to resolve my erratic idling?
Last edited by Accord Euro R; 05-04-2010, 01:47 AM.Comment
-
I don't see any place for your kickdown cable to connect on that throttle body. No kickdown cable would most definitely cause the bogging/not downshifting issue.Comment
-
That's what my Bro said. He was messing with it a little bit yesterday. But it was getting late. He said he needs to re-adjust the kick down cable. Hopefully that's the case. Cause driving the car now feels like its a junk car. Also I need to figure out whats causing the erratic idling. Even though I connected my idle control backup. I notice the only think I am missing is the fast idle since the Accord Euro R intake manifold doesn't have one. Any ways Its embarrassing taking your girl on a date and your car is shaking at every stop light.Originally posted by visualpoet View PostLast edited by Accord Euro R; 05-04-2010, 03:43 PM.Comment
-
Looks like its not my kick down cable. My brother readjusted the cable and it was shifting down fine when I drove it in 4th. But once the check engine light comes back on I be-leave that when my car starts to act funny. I get the error light code 14-22-36-1. I am wondering if the large air flow is the cause of my problem. Does a 68 MM TB and Intake manifold opening cause this issue? Please help. Thanks.Last edited by Accord Euro R; 05-11-2010, 01:09 AM.Comment
-
Did you set your base Idle? Are all the gaskets all nice and sealed? No leakadge? Those where my problems when i swapped manifolds, make sure everything is nice and bolted on tight!
Rip It Up
Sold to: nightime25, MyDianaz06, Accord214 and 408cb7
Bought from:Rob_is_Legend, MonoCB7, Fatboy1185, Flatline and busak87
i vouch for my Brothas
Comment
-
I see. I did not do a proper base idle setup and on most of the adapters I have on the Accord Euro R intake manifold there was no gasket. So you had the same problem as mine? Same Check engine light as well as the boggy 4th gear drive? and the issue was because of a vacuum leak?Originally posted by Extacee View PostComment
Comment