How torque for the oil drain plug?

[casterX]

Where do I buy one of those?
Thanks.

x2

im really interested on doing this. i already messed up one oil pan

http://www.fumoto.com.au/
Honda All other models from '84-'97 Size:14mm-1.5 Part No.:F-106

probably someone else makes them..
try ebay..

[rayray91]

http://www.qwikvalve.com/F-106-14mm-1.5.html

[cb7rush]

Speaking of oil changes, and I'm in the mood to thread jack, how the f do you remove the oil filter with out spilling oil all over the down pipe and axle?

One thing that they showed in project car mag is put a plastic bag over the filter and it should hold the oil..nut make sure there isnt a hole in your bag, they didnt check so it was worthless..it worked for me though..

[sow3r]

http://www.fumoto.com.au/
Honda All other models from '84-'97 Size:14mm-1.5 Part No.:F-106

probably someone else makes them..
try ebay..

dude thats pretty cool. ive never heard of those things before, that goes to show you how noob i am
for 30 bucks I'm SOLD!!!
thanks man!

[batever]

You dont need to do it each time.. Just inspect the condition to make sure it will still seal and will still crush when you tighten it.

It's not just a matter of the visible condition of the washer but that compressing it under the bolt causes work hardening in the metal. So the 2nd time you use it it won't conform nearly as well to the oil pan.

It's possible to anneal copper by heating it up to--I'm not sure of the exact temperature, somewhere between 600 and 1000 degrees F--and letting it cool slowly back to room temperature. This causes it to regain its softness. I think you use a torch and put the copper on a refractory brick and circle the copper washer without touching it with the flame (because copper is kind of easy to melt). I hear it's supposed to glow kind of whitish once it gets to the right temperature.

Obviously if you're going to do this then google the info because I'm sketchy on the details.

You can anneal aluminum as well. It's commonly done in aircraft (shaping aluminum parts requires repeated working of the aluminum and then annealing to restore workability) Aluminum 1010 (the soft, nearly pure aluminum) anneals at around 600F.

[batever]

dude thats pretty cool. ive never heard of those things before, that goes to show you how noob i am
for 30 bucks I'm SOLD!!!
thanks man!

The Fram Sure Drain is available more widely. Autozone has it. Around $25.

[P5ylance]

It's not just a matter of the visible condition of the washer but that compressing it under the bolt causes work hardening in the metal. So the 2nd time you use it it won't conform nearly as well to the oil pan.

It's possible to anneal copper by heating it up to--I'm not sure of the exact temperature, somewhere between 600 and 1000 degrees F--and letting it cool slowly back to room temperature. This causes it to regain its softness. I think you use a torch and put the copper on a refractory brick and circle the copper washer without touching it with the flame (because copper is kind of easy to melt). I hear it's supposed to glow kind of whitish once it gets to the right temperature.

Obviously if you're going to do this then google the info because I'm sketchy on the details.

You can anneal aluminum as well. It's commonly done in aircraft (shaping aluminum parts requires repeated working of the aluminum and then annealing to restore workability) Aluminum 1010 (the soft, nearly pure aluminum) anneals at around 600F.

hahaha i just learned about annealing in my engineering course, your post makes me feel accomplished in my class! thanks! lol

[Velocifero]

looks cool but on a lowered car thats gonna be the lowest point on the pan and its not gonna be cool when you smash that on the ground and jack up the oil pan or possibly break it off.

Exactly what I was thinking. I'm barely lowered and my header is all dented up. If that thing rips off, your car is going nowhere fast.

[batever]

If you don't like undoing the drain bolt all the time, there's no reason you couldn't thread a plastic line into the dipstick tube and suck the oil out with a fluid pump. It would make for a cleaner, less problem prone job overall. You'd need a pretty skinny line though.
You still need a drain pan for doing the filter though so I'm not sure how much the vacuum technique will benefit you, except the drain pan will be a lot easier to clean afterwards than if you filled it with 3-4 qts of used motor oil, and of course the real benefit would be there's less chance of a spill using a fluid pump.

[batever]

Exactly what I was thinking. I'm barely lowered and my header is all dented up. If that thing rips off, your car is going nowhere fast.

I have the Fram Sure Drain on my car and it's saved me a lot of hassle because all I do to drain the oil is screw a fitting and tube onto the drain and the oil goes right into my container, no spills (still have to be careful not to knock the container over! I learned that one the hard way)

My car is not lowered however. I agree that I would start to wonder on a lowered vehicle whether that extra downward projection and reduction of clearance would be a good idea. I'm not sure off the top of my head if the crossmember is low enough to protect the drain plug.

[Velocifero]

I have the Fram Sure Drain on my car and it's saved me a lot of hassle because all I do to drain the oil is screw a fitting and tube onto the drain and the oil goes right into my container, no spills (still have to be careful not to knock the container over! I learned that one the hard way)

My car is not lowered however. I agree that I would start to wonder on a lowered vehicle whether that extra downward projection and reduction of clearance would be a good idea. I'm not sure off the top of my head if the crossmember is low enough to protect the drain plug.

What sucks is if someone knew that was there, they could find your car and drain all of your oil right there on the ground. How much would that suck? lol

[batever]

What sucks is if someone knew that was there, they could find your car and drain all of your oil right there on the ground. How much would that suck? lol

Yeah, that would suck! Which is actually why I decided not to get the Fumoto drain. But to get the oil to drain out with the Fram one you need to screw a special drain cap onto it to get it to drain so I figured it's safer.