Rouned Timing Tensioner Bolt - HELP!

[XcluziveAZN]

I rounded the tensioned bolt. I can't fit the socket in there either because there is no room.

The bolt is on very tight. any advice?

[turbo90accord]

which bolt are you referring to? the timing belt tensioner bolt is only 18ft/lbs so it should break loose no problem.

USE THE RIGHT TOOLS. you should always use 6pt. sockets and wrenches on bolts that are torqued high.

[XcluziveAZN]

Apparently that bolt on my car is not 18 ft/lb!

There is no room for ratchet at all


i guess i have to use vice grip

[batever]

Apparently that bolt on my car is not 18 ft/lb!

There is no room for ratchet at all


i guess i have to use vice grip

You're talking about the timing belt tensioner nut that sticks out from the timing cover? Mine is stripped too.

I thought the recommended torque on it was 33ft-lbs not 18 but who knows, I don't have my manual right now.

*LATER EDIT 4/19/10 Haynes and Helm manuals say 33 lbs-foot*

I use vise grips to undo it and tighten it now. If you want to get another one it's like $8 from Honda. You might need to tap on the end of the wrench with a section of 2x4 used as a punch and another section of 2x4 used as a hammer to break the nut free if it's really tight. (the wood sticks to the end of the wrench better, and using a section of 2x4 as a hammer it's easier to avoid missing your target).

By the way, do you know the wrench trick where you put the closed end of a combination wrench on the bolt you are tightening, then take another combination wrench and hook the closed part of it around the open end of the first wrench to double the lever arm. It doubles your leverage and lets you deal with nuts like the one we're talking about that don't have a lot of clearance without stripping them. Of course, too late now.

Another method for this particular nut (unstripped) would be a crowsfoot wrench, preferably a design that reaches around the nut.

A final option for this particular stripped nut is to use an Irwin bolt-out socket of the correct size, tap it onto the nut with a hammer, then use vise grips or a wrench to twist it out. But I find that just vise grips has worked for me.

[XcluziveAZN]

You're talking about the timing belt tensioner nut that sticks out from the timing cover? Mine is stripped too.

I thought the recommended torque on it was 33ft-lbs not 18 but who knows, I don't have my manual right now.

I use vise grips to undo it and tighten it now. If you want to get another one it's like $8 from Honda. You might need to tap on the end of the wrench with a section of 2x4 used as a punch and another section of 2x4 used as a hammer to break the nut free if it's really tight. (the wood sticks to the end of the wrench better, and using a section of 2x4 as a hammer it's easier to avoid missing your target).

By the way, do you know the wrench trick where you put the closed end of a combination wrench on the bolt you are tightening, then take another combination wrench and hook the closed part of it around the open end of the first wrench to double the lever arm. It doubles your leverage and lets you deal with nuts like the one we're talking about that don't have a lot of clearance without stripping them. Of course, too late now.

Another method for this particular nut (unstripped) would be a crowsfoot wrench, preferably a design that reaches around the nut.

A final option for this particular stripped nut is to use an Irwin bolt-out socket of the correct size, tap it onto the nut with a hammer, then use vise grips or a wrench to twist it out. But I find that just vise grips has worked for me.

the method with open wrench and another wrench got me into this mess in the first place.

For now i'm able to slide the belt off and work on something else.

I might try to heat up the bolt and use vice grip and go from the bottom.

[batever]

the method with open wrench and another wrench got me into this mess in the first place.

For now i'm able to slide the belt off and work on something else.

I might try to heat up the bolt and use vice grip and go from the bottom.

yeah, better to use a combination wrench so you can use the closed end to surround the fastener.

I havent' had to use heat on that nut but if you can do it without melting the timing cover go for it.

I've always just used the vise grip alone and it worked for me.

If you're thinking of going from the bottom to get more leverage /better grip on on the vise grip handle, instead try my method of putting the vise grip *hard* on that nut, then using a length of 2x4 as a punch and another length as a hammer (or, what the heck, use a hammer, but I find it easy to miss and hit myself with the hammer) and impacting the vise grip's handle from above with it. It works very well to shock the bolt free.

[turbo90accord]

the method with open wrench and another wrench got me into this mess in the first place.

For now i'm able to slide the belt off and work on something else.

I might try to heat up the bolt and use vice grip and go from the bottom.

Didnt use a 6 point wrench did you!

Dont use heat. At least i highly would not suggest it on timing belt area components unless you are planning on replacing them once removed. If you cant get another wrench on there id suggest getting some large channel locks or vice grips and REPLACE the bolt.

[XcluziveAZN]

Update:

I used Irwin Bolt-Grip with Money Wrench and Pipe
got that sucker out without any damage phew

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...4&ddkey=Search

[batever]

Update:

I used Irwin Bolt-Grip with Money Wrench and Pipe
got that sucker out without any damage phew

congrats.

It goes back on at 33lbs-ft, assuming you have a torque wrench or are going to use some other method to determine applied torque. I checked both helm and haynes manuals for the spec.