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oil leaks

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    #1

    oil leaks

    Man I got a lot of problems with this car........

    Next up on the list is the oil

    My engine has at least 3 oil leaks and I was hoping you guys could give me an idea of what I'm going to pay to get it fixed, since I just don't have the time to do it myself.

    I know exactly where one leak is, it comes dripping out of this thing right under the oil filter, it looks like a big screw about the size of a half-dollar with a big square in the middle. It appears that it just needs to be tightened up, but I don't want to mess with it till I know what it is and what it does.

    The next 2 are going to be. A little more vague, first all I can tell is that oil is slowly dripping from the bottom of the timing cover, other than that I have no idea. The last one drips from where the trans meets the motor, I think that it is coming from the top of the motor because I can see some oil is falling on the top of the trans and running down, could this one be a leak from the distributor seal?

    Any ideas/opinions would help, rough estimates of repair costs would be a greater help.

    Thanks in advance
    Tags: None
    #2
    I know exactly where one leak is, it comes dripping out of this thing right under the oil filter, it looks like a big screw about the size of a half-dollar with a big square in the middle. It appears that it just needs to be tightened up, but I don't want to mess with it till I know what it is and what it does.
    I don't know what that thing is either.

    I can tell is that oil is slowly dripping from the bottom of the timing cover, other than that I have no idea.
    It could be just a leaky oil pan gasket,or it could be oil dripping down the back of the engine from the corner of the valve cover gasket to the rear of the camshaft. Or, more problematically, it could be a leaky oil pump or a leaky balance shaft seal or the crankshaft seal under the timing cover, in which case you want to get that fixed soon before the timing belt goes out on you due to becoming oilsoaked.

    My first priority in your situation would be to pull the valve cover and the upper timing cover and have a look inside there. If you pay a mechanic to do this and it turns out he has to go in and replace those seals you are looking at serious cash in the 500 dollar range because you are gonna want him to replace the timing belt etc while he's in there. It's not trivial to get in there.

    At least once you've seen that (hopefully) your oil leak doesn't stem from that area you can relax a bit.

    The last one drips from where the trans meets the motor, I think that it is coming from the top of the motor because I can see some oil is falling on the top of the trans and running down, could this one be a leak from the distributor seal?
    yes it could be the distributor o ring, or you could have a leaky valve cover gasket in that back corner. You could fix the o ring easily in one hour and the o ring costs 3 bucks. A mechanic will charge you $40-80 for the job. The valve cover gasket is like $25. Or buy 1 can of The Right Stuff instead of a gasket for $15 and use that instead and also for the next 4 times you have to do it as well.

    or it could the rear main seal where the tranny meets the engine, in which case the tranny needs to come off so you can get at it. Again, spendy. I'm guessing $200-300 to pay for the work. It's just an $8 seal (my guess) but getting in there takes a bit of time.
    Last edited by batever; 04-03-2010, 01:13 AM.

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      #3
      Originally posted by batever View Post
      My first priority in your situation would be to pull the valve cover and the upper timing cover and have a look inside there. If you pay a mechanic to do this and it turns out he has to go in and replace those seals you are looking at serious cash in the 500 dollar range because you are gonna want him to replace the timing belt etc while he's in there. It's not trivial to get in there.
      I just had the VCG replaced a month ago and he didn't say anything was out of line, but then again i don't know how well he looked at it.

      The rest of that sounds a little daunting, i'm hoping i have enough money to get this fixed. One thing i do find a little odd, i know for a fact it's leaking oil, but everytime i check the dipstick it is always at the same level, as if its not leaking.

      Im going to look into that seal and o ring for the distributor, anaything i can fix myself leaves more $ for the stuff i can't fix.

      Comment

        #4
        the oil filter area leak could be the seal for the oil pressure switch

        timing cover...could the the crank seal...could be cam seal...could be just the oil pan...depends on is it under the cover...or coming from behind the cover?

        and previous posters are spot on...tranny area leak could just be the dist. oring...easy to replace...just remember how the dist is positioned
        ____

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by bcjammerx View Post
          the oil filter area leak could be the seal for the oil pressure switch

          timing cover...could the the crank seal...could be cam seal...could be just the oil pan...depends on is it under the cover...or coming from behind the cover?

          and previous posters are spot on...tranny area leak could just be the dist. oring...easy to replace...just remember how the dist is positioned
          put a mark on the distributor body and a corresponding mark on the engine before taking the distributor off, then you know how to put it back on. And of course move the pistons to TDC on cyl #1 before you do the job and take note of the position of the distributor rotor as well, marking the distributor body and the rotor so you know they are matched up correctly on reassembly.

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            #6
            Originally posted by batever View Post
            put a mark on the distributor body and a corresponding mark on the engine before taking the distributor off, then you know how to put it back on. And of course move the pistons to TDC on cyl #1 before you do the job and take note of the position of the distributor rotor as well, marking the distributor body and the rotor so you know they are matched up correctly on reassembly.
            best method

            course on my 93 LX f22a1 I can only put the dist on the right way, it won't go on upside down...when I did my oring I found this out cause I was curious...I'm like that

            Not so for all the cb's though from what others have said.
            ____

            Comment

              #7
              My EX actually has the a1 motor even though its supposed to have the a6......

              I'm going to mark it with a grease pen just to make the whole process smoother at reassembly

              Comment

                #8
                So the mechanic said it is the distributor seal, the oil pan gasket, and the front crank (or cam I can't remember) seal.

                I replaced the distributor, and so far its going pretty good, I'm going to see if the oil pan bolts are lose and just tighten them, then see what I can do about the front seal, probably pay to get that done.

                Comment

                  #9
                  if your seals leak this makes me worry your t-belt needs changing.

                  My seals weren't replaced at 100k, they began leaking at 200k. I had the t-belt replaced at 100k but didn't' do the seals...this makes me worry your t-belt is original...prolly needs replacing.
                  ____

                  Comment

                    #10
                    It wouldn't surprise me in the slightest

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by adymeblack View Post
                      So the mechanic said it is the distributor seal, the oil pan gasket, and the front crank (or cam I can't remember) seal.

                      I replaced the distributor, and so far its going pretty good, I'm going to see if the oil pan bolts are lose and just tighten them, then see what I can do about the front seal, probably pay to get that done.
                      Those oil pan bolts are only supposed to go to 9 lbs-ft. (108 lbs-in) FYI. Or just until the gasket squishes out about level with the edge of the pan if you're using the visual method. I would go with a torque wrench though if you have one in 0-250 lb-inch scale. If you don't then choke your grip way up on your ratchet so you don't have a lot of leverage available. Like wrap your hand around the ratchet head.
                      Last edited by batever; 04-09-2010, 02:09 AM.

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                        #12
                        I'm gonna try to look at it on tuesday and see what I can do.

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                          #13
                          so what did you find out?
                          Thanks,

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Originally posted by Bad_dude View Post
                            so what did you find out?
                            Thanks,
                            I hate to say it, but I haven't gotten to it yet. I had an unplanned visit to the ER and didn't have the time. I'm gonna see if I can give it another go on my next day off work which I think is on wedensday.

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