MY car is turning on and off??

[smoaks420]

Just got the CB7. added a alternator battery and starter... but for some reason the car turns off on me after warming the engine up, say at a red light!
also the 1st thousand ~ 2 1/2 thousand rpm the car runs and sounds very sluggish and after hitting 3k revolutions the cars exhaust sounds right.. it also rocks the car during the first thousand rpm's..

im thinking its the throttle body cause the idle is pretty much on 150 give or take..
and or maybe a tune up? wires, plugs, cap, and fuel pump...

what do you guys think it is? small wholes on the piping?
help pls!

Thanks!

[kouzie]

sounds like this:

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ght=main+relay

[batever]

Just got the CB7. added a alternator battery and starter... but for some reason the car turns off on me after warming the engine up, say at a red light!
also the 1st thousand ~ 2 1/2 thousand rpm the car runs and sounds very sluggish and after hitting 3k revolutions the cars exhaust sounds right.. it also rocks the car during the first thousand rpm's..

im thinking its the throttle body cause the idle is pretty much on 150 give or take..
and or maybe a tune up? wires, plugs, cap, and fuel pump...

what do you guys think it is? small wholes on the piping?
help pls!

Thanks!

I'm a little out of my depth but here are my thoughts.

I don't know anything about the throttle body so I'll skip that.

It could be a bad distributor cap, plug or wire so that one cylinder isn't firing reliably and therefore the car doesn't develop enough power at the idle fuel setting so the idle drops really really low. It would also make the engine vibration really rough. So I guess I would start with replacing the distributor cap and see if that makes a difference. New spark plug wires (leads) could make a difference too. So yeah, the basic tuneup approach is worth trying. You might want to do a compression test before you install those new parts though if the car is new to you and it wasn't in great running condition when you bought it, which seems to be the case.

If that doesn't work, try adjusting the idle. It should idle at about 1000 cold and 700 warmed up. I don't know much about the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) but given that we're talking about an idle issue then I think that's worth investigating.

When you rev the car to the normal idle speed, which is about 700-750, is it smooth? If so, then I'd guess you just need to figure out what's creating the low idle condition and fix it.


However if after all that the car isn't smooth at the 700-1000 rpm range, (and I hope this is not the case) I wonder the low idle is the result of the previous owner let it run out of oil and you have seizing pistons that are resisting and resulting in the low idle. Then when the engine fully heats up the piston rings are seizing more strongly and stopping the engine.

I hope it's not that.


Other possibilities: the fuel system. You could have low fuel pressure, a clogged fuel filter, or a clogged fuel injector or a fuel injector that just plain doesn't work, or a combination of these things. That's a whole other world of diagnostics. With that chain of thought I would start by checking the fuel pressure at the fuel rail and/or putting a new fuel filter on.

I would tend to lean first towards a problem with the plugs, wires and distributor cap if I were a betting man, though.

[deevergote]

the first thing to ask is, is the check engine light on? If so, you need to pull the error code. That will point you in the right direction.

[drummersteve7]

after it is warmed up and the engine stops. does the car start again immediately?

[smoaks420]

yes the engine does turn on right away after turning off. it is a F22A1. And no the engine light doesnt turn on! i really hope its just a tune up0 and or the throttle body! not the piston rings if that is the case that means it needs a new motor!
man... another car another headache...
gave up my 87 si for the 90 ex!

i have a baby on the way. had to get a sedan... miss my REX tho!!!!