Announcement

Collapse
1 of 2 < >

ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!

Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956

Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
2 of 2 < >

Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)

Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.

These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.

1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.

2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.

3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.

4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.

The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.

The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
See more
See less

what just happened to the brakes?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    what just happened to the brakes?

    So i was taking my car to a suitable place to work on it and came across a problem. I was going down a hill and while i was sitting at a light all of a sudden the brake pedal just sunk to the floor, and i lost my brakes. Hasn't done it since, of course i haven't been driving it because i'm replacing the rack and pinion and it's being difficult.

    see this thread if your interested in the rack complications...
    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?p=2464303
    Last edited by adymeblack; 03-15-2010, 02:40 AM.

    #2
    Either the Mastercylinder is faulty - The seals inside are worn and bypassing.
    Or there is a leak somewhere.

    More than likely its the mastercylinder - common fault, get it replaced asap.


    Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks

    My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute

    A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.

    If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.

    Comment


      #3
      I agree with evil. My car's brake pedal would sink slowly and after about 25 seconds, the car would start rolling forward. After the master cylinder was replaced, the brakes worked fine.

      Comment


        #4
        I was afraid of that.......

        Is there a way I can test the master cylinder to see if it is faulty?

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by adymeblack View Post

          Is there a way I can test the master cylinder to see if it is faulty?
          Yes, if you're sitting at a light and your pedal sinks to the floor and you lose braking pressure then your MC is bad, you already performed the best test procedure for it, replace the MC.
          My Member's Ride Thread

          Bisimoto header before & after dyno

          1993 10th Anniversary: F22a6, H23IM, Bisimoto header, Custom mandrel exhaust, 5spd swap.

          Comment


            #6
            Yep, that's a good sign that your MC is bad. Beyond that you can check for fluid on or around it. You can also press your pedal down with the engine off and start the car while holding the pedal. If it drops significantly then you have your answer. Note* this test alone doesn't positivly mean your MC is fail(ing) it can also mean the breaks just need bled. However replacement is fairly easy and very basic. Schucks/Oreillys sells remanufactured ones for as low as $50+ core.

            Comment


              #7
              Yeah, I guess you guys have a few good points.....of course it can't something simple like needing to be bled.

              If I replace the mc, do I have to replace the booster along with it?

              Well, looks like I get to see james at my local auto parts store.......again

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by adymeblack View Post
                Yeah, I guess you guys have a few good points.....of course it can't something simple like needing to be bled.

                If I replace the mc, do I have to replace the booster along with it?

                Well, looks like I get to see james at my local auto parts store.......again

                Not necessarily. Sometime when the MC fails it'll let brake fluid drip down into the booster, if this is the case the fluid will eat through the booster over time. When you remove the MC, check behind it and down inside the booster for wetness/rust. If you see nothing then your booster should be fine.
                My Member's Ride Thread

                Bisimoto header before & after dyno

                1993 10th Anniversary: F22a6, H23IM, Bisimoto header, Custom mandrel exhaust, 5spd swap.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Ok then, ill check into it tomorrow while I'm working on the rack and pinion

                  Comment


                    #10
                    How difficult would you guys say replacing the mc is? I'm trying to decide if its worth it to pay someone to do it for me.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by adymeblack View Post
                      How difficult would you guys say replacing the mc is? I'm trying to decide if its worth it to pay someone to do it for me.
                      Undo 2 10mm brake pipe nuts, and the main 12mm bolts that hold it on.
                      Bench bleed the new one then fit it back on, and bleed the brakes.
                      Overall I'd say its a 4/10 in terms of beginner job.

                      However if you are unsure, or don't have the confidence - Get a shop to do it.
                      Brakes are a safety issue, If in doubt - get a professional to do it.


                      Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks

                      My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute

                      A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.

                      If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Ok, i think i can handle that. After i replace the r&p i have to take it to the shop to be aligned anyway, i can have them check over my mc work to make sure everything is kosher.

                        The only 2 things my dad ever told me about cars: "Don't f*$k around with the steering and the brakes, you must have a solid illusion that you are in control of the car."

                        Thanks guys

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Changed up the master cylinder and the brakes are doing ok, had to replace the rear pads because I guess the person that put them on before didn't put them on right and one was put in cock eyed, got the rotors resurfaced and they are working just fine.

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X