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harmonic balancer goes togehter with timing?

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    harmonic balancer goes togehter with timing?

    hi people make it brief.....coming back from supermarket i notice the battery light came on i thought the alternator went out but i also notice a noise coming from the engine compartment which call my attention i stopped and look at the alternator the belt was off and the harmonic balancer was in a wambling movement... so i want to know if this comes out what could happen?

    any comment welcome and how can i fix this problem....
    thank you!

    #2
    Your crank pulley is toast, the rubber ring disintegrated between the two parts (outer ring connects to your accessories, inner ring connects to the crankshaft). I'd stop driving it till its replaced, as having the outer piece of the pulley bouncing around on the inner, can't be good for your crank, or your bearings.
    PT3/6 Development Thread | My 1991 LX Coupe | DIY: 90-93 Tcu Fix

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      #3
      the pulley is new just replaced a month ago, i wonder if the crank tread is bad or the bolt and if that is the case im going to need a new crankshaft right?

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        #4
        check if the crank bolt backed out. very common on hondas.
        I <3 G60.

        0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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          #5
          Originally posted by wed3k View Post
          check if the crank bolt backed out. very common on hondas.
          x2. if it wasnt torqued right, it will back out. also, was a new key installed with the new pulley? if not, buy a new one then re-install your pulley if there is no damage.

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            #6
            yes the key and pulley where new i did it when doing timing change, i will check it out today in the morning see what going on... thank you!

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              #7
              well the bolt that holds the crank pulley is no good it look like is striped no tread in the middle section...jum now what? i look in side the crank hole where the bolt goes and it looks striped too wtf

              what can be done?

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                #8
                good luck trying to find a time-sert for that thread and pitch. id suggest a new block.
                I <3 G60.

                0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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                  #9
                  The same thing happened to my friend's CB7, the crank pully bolt was stripped and fell off while he was driving on the highway. Once the bolt was gone, the crank pully eventually wobbled and fell off, which of course rendered his alternator and power steering useless. Unfortunatly he continued to drive (on battery power alone), but the crank pully and bolt also holds the timing pully in place. The timing pully and woodruff key worked its way loose, and the valves crashed against the pistons...ouch.
                  Anyway since the crank was stripped out we really had nothing to loose, so we actually fixed the timing belt, reinstalled the harmonic balancer to the crank and welded it on (this is after we fixed the bent valves) lol. Lucky for him the car runs fine today, even though we welded the hell out of the crank (and he can't use that crank in the future now that its damaged). So if your crank is stripped, your either looking at a full rebuild with a new crank, some sort of heli-coil thread fixer which will be hard to find in that size, otherwise your kinda out of luck. Good luck to you!
                  ON_N20
                  Nitrous = Been there. Turbo = Now. Nitrous + Turbo?... LOADING

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                    #10
                    well yes i thought about rebuild....thats like about a $1000 and up right? if using some performance parts

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by dj_eclipse_303 View Post
                      well yes i thought about rebuild....thats like about a $1000 and up right? if using some performance parts
                      Yes. A rebuild when done correctly (just a stock rebuild) could run you around $1,000 or more between parts, fluids, belts, and machine shop labor. It all depends on what you consider a "rebuild". If your just doing a real basic rebuild like honing the cylinders, replacing the bearings and seals, and in your case replacing the crankshaft you might be able to do it for less than a $1,000. If your just looking to get back on the road again with spending the least possible, you could skip the valvejob / cylinder head work.

                      Depending on what "performace" parts you choose to include in your rebuild will change the end price significantly.
                      ON_N20
                      Nitrous = Been there. Turbo = Now. Nitrous + Turbo?... LOADING

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                        #12
                        i might do a little performance build some head workand upgrading to bisi valve spring/retainer, cam and new crank... a guy told me that i can have it knife edge and balance the crank its gone be some spending $$ but i was gone do it sooner or later.. im doing some research on that but i can't get to it jet if some one with good experience can throw some info i appreciate it...

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