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lower suspension

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    lower suspension

    what parts are needed to lower my 91 honda accord?
    dont want to cut the spring are heat them.

    #2
    You've been a member here since 08. Even with only 16 official posts, you should know to search before you ask. You can go the coilover route, or the lowering spring route, both have their ups and downs, but the key is to remember that however much you spend is how much your ass is worth to you. Cheap $50 coilovers aren't going to be nearly as safe or ride as good as a $400 set-up, which isn't going to be as good as an $1000 set-up.

    Try using the search function. This question has been asked so many times, I can't even decide which thread to point out. Search for "lowering", or "drop" or "coilover" or even "cutting springs". Any of these will be chock full of threads with good information.

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      #3
      Get quality springs
      Get quality shocks
      Get a camber kit
      Get an alignment

      If you're spending less than $500, then you're buying cheap parts. $500 is pretty much the absolute minimum you can spend to safely lower your car.






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        #4
        Originally posted by deevergote View Post
        Get quality springs
        Get quality shocks
        Get a camber kit
        Get an alignment

        If you're spending less than $500, then you're buying cheap parts. $500 is pretty much the absolute minimum you can spend to safely lower your car.
        Ehhh. I spent 250 on my springs/shocks but it was also a great deal though i haven't gotten my camber kit yet.
        No fat dudes, car will scrape. Katie

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          #5
          For new stuff? I read in your other thread what you have, but I can't remember offhand.

          Generally, the cheapest shocks you want to run are KYB GR2s, and they run about $50 each. SOMETIMES you can find them for $150 for a package deal. They're only rated for a spring rate 15&#37; higher than stock, and they aren't meant to be slammed... so they're not exactly performance shocks... but they are considerably better than original OEM shocks. Ideally, if you want performance, and a shock that is properly matched to anything other than a mild "sport" spring (usually 1.5" drop or less) then you should be looking at Koni Yellows or Bilstein shocks.

          Springs should always be a good brand. H&R, Neuspeed, Tein, Progress, etc... No cheap no-name crap from Ebay. They may look good, but the metal is inferior. They will sag, and may snap. I'd rather buy a used set of quality springs than a new set of cheapie springs. You can find good used springs for $100 or less. New, they usually go for $150-$200.

          So yeah, bare minimum, springs and shocks... $250 isn't unreasonable.


          A good camber kit will run $150 at least. I HIGHLY reccommend the TASauto adjustable upper control arm setup. It's not cheap, but it is by far the safest and most reliable way to add a camber kit. Cheap $50 camber kits WILL break on you. I've had it happen to me (Dropzone), and I'm lucky to be alive. I know of at least 3 other members on this site alone that have had the same thing happen. Luckily, nobody has been hurt... yet.

          An alignment often runs $65. The best deal is the $200 lifetime alignment package at Firestone. If you plan on having your car for a while, and ESPECIALLY if you plan on getting an adjustable suspension, this deal will pay for itself.


          Without a camber kit and a proper alignment, you'll be buying tires. With even cheap tire prices starting at $50 or so, plus the cost of mounting and balancing ($22 per wheel at most places by me)... You'll be losing a LOT of money very quickly! If you ignore the wear on your tires, you'll be putting yourself at serious risk. Bald tires don't stop your car, and don't hold the road when you turn.
          After sliding across 3 lanes of traffic, nearly plowing into a bus, and actually rear-ending an 06 Accord ($800 out of my pocket to fix his bumper)... I learned that lesson the hard way.






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            #6
            Also, cheap springs/shocks usually result in cupped tires in the rear. You'll be going through tires left and right like Deev said, and it'll constantly sound like you have bad wheel bearings.


            http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...=1#post1823428

            My Custom BB6 Dash Swap Thread

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              #7
              I have cupped tires in the rear with H&R Race and Koni Yellows... no camber correction, though. I need to get a rear kit.






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