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Code Red..I mean 43

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    #1

    Code Red..I mean 43

    Hey guys, I have a 93 accord EX (f22a6) and it has been throwing a code 43 as stated in the title. Sometimes it acts like it is starving for fuel, it cuts out and sputters, but if I go ahead and give it more fuel, it seems to clear out usually...Sometimes I have to turn the car off, the key back on to prime the pump and start it, does ok for a while...It is very inconsistant I can't seem to find any pattern to it to speak of.

    I have cleaned the injectors and replaced the fuel filter. I also swapped out the MAF (dunno if its relevant, but i tried it) and it didnt help.
    It has a new distributor, plugs, plug wires...

    I was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction for troubleshooting this problem? Perhaps without dropping the tank, if possible. By that I mean, I'd like to eliminate the other possiblities before I fool with the fuel pump.
    On a side note, after I start my car and take off, my abs motor makes a wierd buzzing/whirring sound for 5-6~ seconds and stops, then the ABS light comes on. Ideas? Is there any way to completely bypass the ABS?

    Any and all help is much appreciated.

    edit: i ran the most expensive STP fuel system cleaner i could find through it...they didnt have seafoam where i was at.
    I have ran 2 tanks of 93 octane gas , non ethanol (woot) so I think that marks out bad gas /water

    O2 sensor? ahh im freakin' out man! :P
    Last edited by kronikally420; 03-08-2010, 07:53 PM.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Code 43 (Fuel Supply System) is very often the o2 sensor. I have this exact problem with my H22. I'm running a chipped ECU, so I just swapped the chip for one with a richer fuel map... a band-aid fix (and not an option for you... so it's irrelevant... )

    The o2 sensor would be the first thing I would address. I'll be replacing mine as soon as I get time.

    Also, the issue with the fuel pump priming sounds like your main relay is going bad. They tend to fail, especially in the heat. You might want to replace that before summer, or you could end up with a car that won't start (and it can be a bitch to get to... less fun when it's hot out)






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      #3
      Awesome, thanks alot. I will address both issues as soon as possible.
      Just curious, is it possible for a bad/failing fuel pump relay to throw a code 43? If not, I will just order the o2 sensor. I found a NGK or denso one (I forget.) for 35$ special order from Advance Auto. Only parts store I have found so far that carry any other o2 sensor than bosch.

      Comment

        #4
        If you found one of those brands for $35, GET IT! A good price for one of those is usually about $65! Directly from Honda, they're $150.

        NTK/NGK or Denso are the only brands that will definitely work. Bosch won't work properly (a few people say they have worked for them... but most experience failure in 3 months or less, if they ever work correctly at all.)

        As for the relay causing the code 43, I don't believe it would. A weak fuel pump may, though.
        Replace the relay as a preventative measure, even if it's not bad. If it's not bad yet, it won't be long before it goes. They're about that age where everyone's is going out. I know it can get hot down where you are, so this summer could easily kill an old relay if it's already beginning to fail.

        You mentioned earlier about dropping the tank. Do that as a last resort, once you've ruled out everything else. Everything down there is likely to be corroded all to hell by now, so it'll be a bitch getting everything back together, and all new hardware will probably be needed. Hope it's not the fuel pump!






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          #5
          the main relay is a free be at the jy it fits in your pocket

          Comment

            #6
            OH GOD CODE 43!!!


            They rise their wooden pints and they yoik and sing
            And they fight and dance 'till the morning

            Dont forget my MRT for my 1992 Honda Accord LX

            Originally posted by deevergote
            Everything in Japan is made with carbon fiber and used panties.

            Comment

              #7
              My uncle owns a junkyard, but he's a bigtime asshole so I deal with him as little as possible. He said it sounded like the fuel pump wasn't secure in the tank, therefore the "clunk" when it primes (sometimes its audible, sometimes you have to be listening for it..)

              J3wman, I can't see your flash movie, so, sry no laughs from me..Useful post though


              The way it is acting, I want to say fuel pump relay sounds right...
              According to the code, everyone I have talked with says o2 sensor...
              I figure if it were the o2 sensor it would act up shortly after the car reached/reaches running temperature. Instead it seems like the car runs for a while and then goes to sputtering/cutting out. When it is at it's worst, I have to feather the pedal or push it to the floor, sometimes it pulls out of it sometimes it falls on its face....

              I will keep you guys updated as I get a chance to check it out.
              Hrm..I guess I will find out tomorrow.

              Comment

                #8
                Mine threw code 43 after hesitating. New 02 sensor solved my problem.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by kronikally420 View Post
                  My uncle owns a junkyard, but he's a bigtime asshole so I deal with him as little as possible. He said it sounded like the fuel pump wasn't secure in the tank, therefore the "clunk" when it primes (sometimes its audible, sometimes you have to be listening for it..)

                  J3wman, I can't see your flash movie, so, sry no laughs from me..Useful post though


                  The way it is acting, I want to say fuel pump relay sounds right...
                  According to the code, everyone I have talked with says o2 sensor...
                  I figure if it were the o2 sensor it would act up shortly after the car reached/reaches running temperature. Instead it seems like the car runs for a while and then goes to sputtering/cutting out. When it is at it's worst, I have to feather the pedal or push it to the floor, sometimes it pulls out of it sometimes it falls on its face....

                  I will keep you guys updated as I get a chance to check it out.
                  Hrm..I guess I will find out tomorrow.
                  The sputtering issue is absolutely identical to mine. If it were a loose fuel pump, a richer fuel map probably wouldn't have made a difference.

                  The o2 sensor is your primary suspect.
                  The main relay really doesn't cause any problems other than a no-start.
                  Next, I would ensure that your injectors and injector relay are good.
                  The chances of the fuel pump actually being loose are very slim. Not impossible, but it would be the first time I'd seen it.






                  Comment

                    #10
                    My o2 sensor should be in tomorrow..
                    The 35$ one is/was universal...I guess simply this means that you have to splice it into your wiring harness...Which I have already done on my old cb7, and I didn't enjoy the process what-so-ever. Because of the colors of the wires don't seem to ever match up... SO I spent 110$ (yeah...I know..closer to the stealership price) But it should plug right in.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      It'll plug right in as long as you kept the harness intact (or at least kept the pieces). Did you cut your harness last time, or did you cut the connector off of the old o2 sensor and splice it on the new one (which is the way to go)?

                      The ones that plug right in are always best. Splicing can change the resistance ever so slightly (or significantly, depending on how you do it), and these sensors can be finicky.

                      Once the sensor is in, reset your ECU, drive it around for a bit, and see if the problem is corrected. If not, we'll have to look deeper... but that o2 sensor is very likely the cause. (I hope so, because that means it'll fix my problem as well... and I can go back to running my proper tune!)






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                        #12
                        I spliced into the wiring harness on my 1990 2 dr lx (a4 swap) BUT i opted NOT to splice into the wiring harness on my 93 ex 4dr
                        <3 black...
                        I need some wheels...preferably 5 spokes...i have the aluminum 22 spokes or whatever the hell they are...

                        installed o2 sensor and tie rod ends (irrelevant) today and my car revs much much cleaner and quicker!

                        i will go reset my computer and drive it

                        didnt think i would need to reset...hrm...anyway even without resetting it revs veddy veddy quickly! guess i put it back together right..replaced the head a while back...bwahaha

                        Comment

                          #13
                          seems to have fixed the problem, it isnt throwing a code anymore isnt bogging and revs clean...



                          when you time your ignition timing for your f22(a6) how much did you advance it? the 2 degree advance mark? or do you advance it more?

                          i am looking for mid to high end power, but not be a snail when just puttin around.

                          i mean it runs great, dont get me wrong...i just have my timing advanced a bit more than the 2 -/+ advance mark and i was wondering how you guys set your timing? this is a stock a6 mind you

                          Comment

                            #14
                            i got mine stock ...i would check spark plugs ..you don`t want them to white or melting,, i like a light brown almost white...and you could get a msd ignition/coil

                            Comment

                              #15
                              sorry for posting off topic...i should have made a new thread but just wanted a couple of people's feedback...


                              i retarded the timing to 2-3 -/+ degree advanced


                              and yeah i just replaced my plugs a couple of weeks ago i need to check on them cause it was running rich from a back o2 sensor they might need to be replaced again, sigh...


                              how does the color of the plug tell you with the timing? doesnt the color of the plug indicate how the fuel is burning? (rich , lean, uhh too hot of spark, too cold) is this directly related to ignition timing? i know what to look for as in color of the plug but i dont/didnt know that it was related to the ignition timing


                              deevergote get you an o2 sensor !!!!!!!!!!!! edit: NGK/NTK or denso! (and you know this, man!) screw bosch. i messed around and got bosch plug wires and i dunno if they are anything like the o2 sensors

                              ramble off

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