i was letting my car warm up because it's pretty cold out and i decided to pop my hood for whatever reason and noticed my header was pretty red.... not like OH MY GOD but still had a good glow to it. i understand this is usually from the engine running lean but is there anything in specific i should check? i only have a short ram intake, megan header, test pipe, apexi ws2, and NGK wires. nothing major that would make my injectors obsolete. my fuel filter was also changed not real long ago.
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90 ACCORD EX..<-- MR thread -
Car = OVERHEATING
check fluid levels...
and to see if theres coolant in the oil.. or oil in the coolant...-Will
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Originally posted by Bullhorn7 View Post
glowing doesnt nessassarily mean overheating.
id look into your timing more than anything. retarded timing would cause this as well.
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I drove my car after i wrecked it 15 miles on a busted radiator and when i got home the header was cherry red... Im just saying its a possibility.Last edited by Bullhorn7; 12-09-2009, 12:50 AM.-Will
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I revved the crap out of mine after i'd been for a drive, with the bonnet popped.. Mine went red, then white then purple! WooBuilt & Boosted.Comment
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^
You said bonnet LOL |
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I have seen engines on the dyno with glowing headers but that was with the lights off.... Does it run OK? Is there a CEL? A cold engine = rich mixture which could be sending unburnt fuel into the exhaust. Is it enough to make the header glow? I have never seen my header glow. Sorry not much help.Comment
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Holy shit, the first step would be to take a picture haha, I wanna see that!Comment
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Lmao, welcome to the southern hemisphere.Originally posted by phalpin View Post
Bonnet, boot, tyre, etc . . . eventually we get used to your guys slang, but it takes a while for us
OP - Check you timing. Btw what header are you using?
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He stated he's using a Megan header.Originally posted by evil_demon_01 View PostLmao, welcome to the southern hemisphere.
Bonnet, boot, tyre, etc . . . eventually we get used to your guys slang, but it takes a while for us
OP - Check you timing. Btw what header are you using?
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Woops, My mistake.Originally posted by vietkid_2006 View Post
Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks
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A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.
If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.Comment
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i plan to check the timing. how do i go about doing that? physical or electrical? timing is one thing i could never seem to grasp about engines and it's always what keeps me from tearing my head apart lolOriginally posted by turbo90accord View Post
car still runs great. a little different because of the below freezing weather now but that happens with any car. no CEL. to my knowledge a rich mixture doesn't make your header glow/create near as much heat as running lean does so i don't know.Originally posted by phalpin View Post
you think it's just maybe because of the cold weather and the way the engine tweaks the air/fuel ratio at cold starts? i'm also using a bosch o2 sensor. i've heard they go bad and you have to custom wire them but mine was a direct bolt in and clipped straight into the original connector....
also, forgot to add that after i got where i needed to be, i popped the hood and it didn't seem to be red/glowing at all. just a little discoloration like every megan header. which kind of makes me think it's just doing it at startup in the cold90 ACCORD EX..<-- MR threadComment
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no catalytic converter.Originally posted by 92smokeaccord View Post90 ACCORD EX..<-- MR threadComment
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Physical (valve) timing involves your timing belt. That SHOULD remain accurate as long as the belt was installed properly, and doesn't skip a tooth. It keeps the rotation of the crank and camshafts synchronized, so the valves and pistons are where they need to be at all times. If this was off, you'd probably notice it in the way the car runs. The only other way to adjust this is with an adjustable cam gear.Originally posted by xaaronx View Post
Electrical (ignition) timing involves your distributor. This is MUCH easier to adjust, and it's the "timing" most people are referring to. To do so, you need a timing light (about $40 for a cheap one at most autoparts stores). The light is very easy to use. You need to jump your service connector (the one used to check the CEL codes) when adjusting the timing, so the ECU doesn't compensate.
Get the light, hook it up as the instructions say, remove the plug on the front of the transmission, and aim the light down there. The timing marks on the flywheel should be visible. Center is 15*, with 2* on either side shown by smaller marks. That is the "safe area". Beyond that, you could be damaging your engine (though most people have said that fully advanced and fully retarded have done no such thing... better to have it right, though!) Turn your distributor until the marker is in that safe range. Center it on the 15* mark.
If you're removed, replaced, or adjusted your distributor at all in the past, and haven't corrected your ignition timing, I can guarantee you that you're off.
What do you have in place of a cat? Straight pipe? hollowed out cat?Originally posted by xaaronx View Post
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