engine runs rough...??

[jdmguy91]

hey ppl. i'm new to this thread and i need help with my cb7. its a 92 accord lx 4dr. i have the f22a1 5speed, problem its i got it for 400bucks cause had a blown head gasket. well i bought a new head gasket changed it timed it and it would run but rough.. then the oil pump blew out so i decided to get a new bottom end. i just got done with the swap on that timed it to the book specs got it all put back together but it still runs rough i checked everything but idk where to go.. the engine light isn't on. i'm guessing its my idle control valve. but it still doesn't axccelerate like it should.. it has new cap and rotor and plugs.. kinda lost now..

[HondaFan81]

Your description is a starting point for your problem, still too vague. We need more details. I hope you realize that you have introduced so many variables in your repair history, we have to narrow it down to achieve results.

This is my best shot, with the information you have provided. Please correct me if I misunderstood your information and/or add more information.

My Understanding:

A) Original engine had blown headgasket.
B) You repaired and installed new headgasket.
C) Original engine still runs rough.
D) Original engine oil pump fails.
E) You repair oil pump by replacing original engine block.
F) Current engine setup still runs rough with new plugs, dizzy cap & rotor.

My Thoughts:

1) Based on "A", the original engine had existing mechanical problems resulting in elevated engine temperatures. Honda headgaskets do NOT just blow out due to wear, they are mult-layered steel. Therefore, your repair "B" did not fix the actual problem.

2) Based on point # 1, there are various resulting issues that can cause "C", the original engine to still run rough after your headgasket repair.

3) "D", original engine oil pump failure, seems to explain the underlying original engine elevated temperature problem that resulting in the initial blown headgasket. Again, you repair the problem at face value and replace the engine block due to oil pump failure.

4) Based on "A-F"...Oil pump failures result in metal debris circulated within your engine oiling system and oil starvation, affecting various components. Furthermore, you retained the original cylinder head, which could have camshaft, camshaft journal and rocker arm damage as a result of oil starvation and metal contamination. In addition, this is the same cylinder head that has already experienced elevated temperatures prior to your headgasket repair. The camshaft and valvetrain must be in good mechanical condition to work properly and they have a significant effect on engine performance.

My Recommendations:

- Acquire a used, good condition entire cylinder head assembly (do NOT reuse any original head components, except valve cover).
- Remove rocker arm assembly and camshaft from replacement cylinder head, inspect.
- Flush out orignal valve cover of potential metal debris, concentrate on internal baffling area.
- Remove original intake manifold & cylinder head together, then separate IM from head outside of vehicle.
- Verify all intake manifold vacuum hoses are in good condition and properly routed, replace the necessary.
- Verify all intake manifold coolant hoses are in good condition and properly routed, replace the necessary
- While IM/head assembly removed, replace necessary coolant heater hoses to prevent future elevated temperature issues.
- At this time, also inspect all engine mounts, replace the necessary.
- Reinstall IM to replacement cylinder head and then reinstall IM/head assembly onto block (new gaskets).
- Since rocker arm assembly & camshaft are removed from head, apply engine lube across all camshaft journals.
- Install camshaft, again apply engine lube across camshaft journals and lobes generously.
- Install rocker arm assembly, set physical timing via timing belt.
- Perform valve lash adjustment.
- Continue cylinder head, valve cover assembly and remaining engine assembly.
- Set distributor in center of slot, for engine start-up.
- Once engine started and fully warmed up, perform DIY sticky "base idle setting" procedure.
- Then, set "base ignition timing", reference DIY stick for that as well.

[wed3k]

when you warp the head and f22 heads warp real easily. the valves also do not seat any more. this might explain why you are getting a rough idle. there's a difference in compression throughout the 4 cylinders.

[jdmguy91]

my bad with the non details.. okay the original motor i could tell had some rough treatment, bottom barrings were shot. metal flakes and water in oil cause the oil pump the go bad. when i got a new bottom block i cleaned my head, i took a straight edge and checked it accross my head i didn't notice any warpage. had a lot of carbon build up i cleaned with a tooth brush and carp cleaner, did that to all my vavles. my grandpa who is a retired 30+ years mechanic said the valves seemed fine afterwards. took his word for it and put everything back together. Update! i cleaned my idcv. it runs lil better now but still rough. my friend seems to think i'm one tooth off on my timing.. cause my antifreez is clean so is my oil.. so i'm guess its my timing i should try redoing it? idk what u guys think.

[wed3k]

you know you're off a tooth if you cant set the timing or your distributor is maxed out.

[jdmguy91]

yeah i'll have to give it a try tomorrow... uhg i know the timing is a bitch on these... specialy when i have no help.. thanks tho.

[HondaFan81]

Reference my stickies in the DIY section for "base idle setting" and "base ignition timing", after your properly set physical timing (timing belt).

[jdmguy91]

lost

yeah i checked my timing belt today and it was off a tooth or so.. so i re did it and i think i got it...but fired it up it sounded better but still rough cuts out when i drive accelerate down road.. has a lil miss to it idk what to do now?????