how to stop steering wheel rattle?

[809king]

my steering wheel rattle really bad and it has steering fluid and new belt.. how can i stop the rattle??

[accordztech]

i dont get it.

does it do it during deceleration, idle acceleration?

[mj213]

Is it vibrating or just making a noise with no noticeable feeling? If it is vibrating it sounds like you've either got balance issues, bent rim(s), or brakes rotors warped.

[809king]

it vibrates alot in idle (ex= at a red light) but not when driving.

[mndude07]

My car has this issue as well. The steering wheel shakes pretty violently upon start up, and while idling. Its not as bad when the motor is warmed up but it still does it.

I noticed it became worse when I installed poly ESP motor mounts, and it also gets worse when I turn on the a/c, or anything else to put more drag on the motor.

Also note that as soon as i touch the gas, whether in gear or in neutral, it immediately quits shaking.

The wheel is directly linked to the steering column, and the rack & pinion, so the vibrations must be transferred through there somehow.

I haven't bothered to find a fix for this yet though because it doesn't bother me honestly.

[809king]

My car has this issue as well. The steering wheel shakes pretty violently upon start up, and while idling. Its not as bad when the motor is warmed up but it still does it.

I noticed it became worse when I installed poly ESP motor mounts, and it also gets worse when I turn on the a/c, or anything else to put more drag on the motor.

Also note that as soon as i touch the gas, whether in gear or in neutral, it immediately quits shaking.

The wheel is directly linked to the steering column, and the rack & pinion, so the vibrations must be transferred through there somehow.

I haven't bothered to find a fix for this yet though because it doesn't bother me honestly.

the same exact thing is happening to me... i was thinking it can be the rack n pinion but check to see if theres an alternative in stopping the shaking mean while

[KeeM_JDM]

sounds like you got balancing issues.
i changed my motor mounts in my old car and the problem went away

[accordztech]

well if you put energysuspension front mounts its going to vibrate.

if you didnt, then ur front mount is shot.

[Sarthos]

PCV valve/hose. The hose for my PCV valve was pinched, that caused horrible steering wheel rattling at idle.

[HondaFan81]

My car has this issue as well. The steering wheel shakes pretty violently upon start up, and while idling. Its not as bad when the motor is warmed up but it still does it.

I noticed it became worse when I installed poly ESP motor mounts, and it also gets worse when I turn on the a/c, or anything else to put more drag on the motor.

Also note that as soon as i touch the gas, whether in gear or in neutral, it immediately quits shaking.

The wheel is directly linked to the steering column, and the rack & pinion, so the vibrations must be transferred through there somehow.

I haven't bothered to find a fix for this yet though because it doesn't bother me honestly.

To the poster above and original poster, you most likely have an idle issue. Reset your base idle, reference my DIY sticky on this.

Seriously, so many people have this issue and do not understand how to set idle properly. They think it is as easy as adjusting idle screw and it is NOT.

After you complete my DIY, if it continues, I would look into your electrical system and verify the alternator is working properly under engine load. The alternator load check should be done at a shop with the equipment that can do it WHILE alternator remains installed in vehicle.

If problem still continues, verify that your balance shaft belt is properly timed, this can cause vibrations at idle and lower RPMs. Also, inspect the condition of all engine mounts.

[mndude07]

To the poster above and original poster, you most likely have an idle issue. Reset your base idle, reference my DIY sticky on this.

Seriously, so many people have this issue and do not understand how to set idle properly. They think it is as easy as adjusting idle screw and it is NOT.

After you complete my DIY, if it continues, I would look into your electrical system and verify the alternator is working properly under engine load. The alternator load check should be done at a shop with the equipment that can do it WHILE alternator remains installed in vehicle.

If problem still continues, verify that your balance shaft belt is properly timed, this can cause vibrations at idle and lower RPMs. Also, inspect the condition of all engine mounts.

I can't speak for the OP, but I do in fact know how to properly set base idle, and I have. Also, all of my motor mounts are brand new ESP mounts. My problem lies elsewhere, but maybe one of those will help the OP.

[HondaFan81]

mndude (information also applies to OP),

Regardless, I would verify your base idle setting and base ignition timing. Unless you personally have done it and provide information that you did it properly, then do not assume.

So you have new engine mounts, good.

However, did you verify your balance shaft belt timing (if you retained yours)?

Also, you make no mention of your electrical system working properly, specifically the alternator under engine load. If the alternator is fine, verify your battery is not on its way out (you should be having engine starting issue when battery is having charging problems....like slower cranking starts or no cranks/starts).

[mndude07]

mndude (information also applies to OP),

Regardless, I would verify your base idle setting and base ignition timing. Unless you personally have done it and provide information that you did it properly, then do not assume.

So you have new engine mounts, good.

However, did you verify your balance shaft belt timing (if you retained yours)?

Also, you make no mention of your electrical system working properly, specifically the alternator under engine load. If the alternator is fine, verify your battery is not on its way out (you should be having engine starting issue when battery is having charging problems....like slower cranking starts or no cranks/starts).

I personally set my base idle. It is consistent and around 8-900..it is slightly higher than normal because of my bored TB, as it idled at the normal range before i installed it. I have not checked my balance shaft or alternator, but the issue is probably with one of those, since neither have been touched since I've owned the car and this shaking has occured since I owned the car when it was stock.

[HondaFan81]

I personally set my base idle. It is consistent and around 8-900..it is slightly higher than normal because of my bored TB, as it idled at the normal range before i installed it. I have not checked my balance shaft or alternator, but the issue is probably with one of those, since neither have been touched since I've owned the car and this shaking has occured since I owned the car when it was stock.

First, I am only trying to help the both of you. Keep in mind, I know these engine very well and have a lot of personal experience. I provide suggestions only to help. Also, remember I have modification experience with these motors as well, two-fold (two projects).

I am still not convinced your base idle is set properly. Please just take a look and follow my DIY sticky for "base idle setting", it is in that forum section.

I look at things very logically. Two reasons I am not convinced.

1) Your problems persists in stock engine form and currently, meaning originally problem never solved. Therefore, incorrect base idle setting can apply to both scenarios (i.e. stock & current engine setup).

2) Based off personal experience, a bored TB engine can be set to idle properly. You simply have to readjust TPS to 0.45V closed. Also, you should follow my DIY stick "base idle setting" procedure AFTER the bored TB install. As a result, your engine is still capable of idling like stock (i.e. 750 +/- 50 RPMs).

NOTE: A performance camshaft install can affect your idle RPM setting (if aggressive enough) and can raise idle to have it develop appropriate engine vacuum.

[mndude07]

First, I am only trying to help the both of you. Keep in mind, I know these engine very well and have a lot of personal experience. I provide suggestions only to help. Also, remember I have modification experience with these motors as well, two-fold (two projects).

I am still not convinced your base idle is set properly. Please just take a look and follow my DIY sticky for "base idle setting", it is in that forum section.

I look at things very logically. Two reasons I am not convinced.

1) Your problems persists in stock engine form and currently, meaning originally problem never solved. Therefore, incorrect base idle setting can apply to both scenarios (i.e. stock & current engine setup).

2) Based off personal experience, a bored TB engine can be set to idle properly. You simply have to readjust TPS to 0.45V closed. Also, you should follow my DIY stick "base idle setting" procedure AFTER the bored TB install. As a result, your engine is still capable of idling like stock (i.e. 750 +/- 50 RPMs).

NOTE: A performance camshaft install can affect your idle RPM setting (if aggressive enough) and can raise idle to have it develop appropriate engine vacuum.

I understand you're trying to help Cisco, but I'm saying I have already set my base idle(several times) a la your DIY...and I set my TPS to .45V...I checked all that a long time ago lol. That's why I'm confident its the balance shaft or alternator like you said. This was done before and after the TB install.