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Rear ESP bracket

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    #16
    I guess i could put a couple of washers an each side.

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      #17
      That's what I would do. Sure, the bracket would def. bend in to catch the inner sleeve of the mount, but it could save some headache if for some reason you had to stick and OEM mount in there. You def. have the right bracket, DX/LX manual "low" bracket.

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        #18
        Sorry for subject change, but does antone know or have used the XTR racing clutch and flywheel, I cant afford much at all, but i need both and its only 220.00 shipped for stage 1 clutch and 11.5lbs flywheel.

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          #19
          Or the F1 clutch and flywheel are the same price, which would be better.

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            #20
            to make it conform is hack. use fender washers and space it out.
            I <3 G60.

            0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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              #21
              Not to sound stupid, but actual fender washers for the fender, whats diff. about them, and would you buy an XTD, or F1 clutch.

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                #22
                kinda odd to me. I used the prelude rear bracket and it was a close fit. more like 1/8" on each side before conforming.

                My Wiretuck/ Insane engine bay
                member ride thread
                11.86@120mph T66 turbo 612hp F22A
                DIVULGE MOTORSPORTS
                People can hate all they want, my f22 is faster than yours.
                I have literally been on this site for 10 years, I know what i am talking about!
                John 10:18 "No one takes it from me, but I lay it down of my own accord. I have authority to lay it down and authority to take it up again. "

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                  #23
                  I wouldn't put washers in there. ESP designed the mount to be installed w/ just a DX/LX rear bracket. If you add washers to the sides, it might affect things. For instance, I had my swap guy do my 5spd conversion for me b/c I thought he knew what he was doing....on the D/S mount, you know how one bolt is a normal 17mm head and the other is just pure thread w/ a nut on top? well he replaced that threaded stud w/ another bolt and that totally affected how the mount controlled vibrations.

                  The threaded stud has a raised section in between the part that screws into the motor bracket and the part that the nut tightens onto. As a result the mount sat cocked at an angle a bit. The bolt he put in was too narrow and every time I shifted the mount would move. Its a good thing I sent in pics to ESP when I was having my issues, Jon caught that and advised me to use their bolt as a rear provison and that stud w/ the nut in front.

                  So with that being said, if there were no washers or other clearance fit items required w/ the OEM mounts, then I wouldn't add some just to make it work. Unless ESP explicitly states to do so.

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                    #24
                    well, squeezing the bracket till it "conforms" will reduce the amount of surface area of the bracket to the bushing.

                    you want the bracket to squish the bushing evenly. i still stand with my fender washer idea. and those two clutches are garbage.

                    I <3 G60.

                    0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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                      #25
                      Yeah, no offence to anyone, but it would make me feel better with washers in and the mount meeting the bracket evenly, i might call john and get his opinion also.

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                        #26
                        I don't remember that much gap with my ESP kit either, strange. I'm pretty sure the way that mount is made, it'll tighten that gap up when the bolts into the block are tightened. If I remember, the mount is made from a folded and formed piece of plating and so when you tighten up the 4-5 mount bolts, it finishes "forming" and "squeezing" the bracket down to its normal shape., take a look at the bracket and see if it has any small gaps between 2 layers of steel that would close when the block bolts are installed.

                        XTD products are pure crap, don't ever ever waste your money on them, speaking from personal experience as well as numerous members here who've had bad experiences. From what I've seen and heard about F1 racing, it's hit or miss as to quality. You really are better off waiting a bit longer until you can afford an Exedy clutch. If you only have bolt-ons then the exedy OEM will work just fine and can be found pretty inexpensive off ebay, just make sure it's a reputable seller with a warranty and return policy as they'll stand by the sale.
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                        Bisimoto header before & after dyno

                        1993 10th Anniversary: F22a6, H23IM, Bisimoto header, Custom mandrel exhaust, 5spd swap.

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                          #27
                          I dont see anything that could squeeze together, everything is solid, and it looks like if you put a bolt in and pull it together, it would pull the end in at an angle, and not sit even against the mount. Ill figure something out, i guess i need to check the rest of my mounts for fitment, just to be sure.

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