Driver side axle seal - doesn't fit?

[newman]

I decided to replace the outer axle seals on both sides - and ran into a little problem on the driver side (manual transmission).

I couldn't fit the new seal in, so I completely removed the intermediate/halfshaft that goes into the transmission for better access - and even then, the new seal simply does not fit. I have a seal driver that I used along with a rubber hammer - and I could *make* it fit (lightly lubed with fresh oil), but the outer rubber on the seal scrunched up around the rim, so it's simply too large (ruined one seal, bought another).

I even tried putting the seal in the freezer to see if it might shrink a tiny bit, but that didn't help.

The intermediate shaft looks and feels pretty new, so I'm thinking that maybe it's an aftermarket replacement, and the opening isn't quite up to spec? It probably came with a seal already installed, and unless I can find the exact seal - I'm screwed.

Any ideas? These are aftermarket seals, so perhaps an OEM might make a difference, but I'm not hopeful... I foresee a visit to the junkyard in my future.

[PhatAccord]

double check w/ the place where you bought your seals. also compare it to the old seal that was removed from your tranny...

[4U2H8ME]

There is a size difference between the driver side and passenger side seal. Just go to the dealer and get the right one. It doesn't cost much.

[newman]

Problem solved - if anybody is ever as dumb as me... I bought the seal for the driver side seal that comes out of the transmission - but was trying to replace the half-shaft seal where it mates with the CV joint.

Lesson learned - if the seal isn't going to fit, wailing on it with a rubber hammer is just going to ruin a perfectly good seal that belongs elsewhere.

Thanks for the help, I'm an idiot.

And another tip for anybody in the future searching... if you want to remove the brake dust/mud shield on the knuckle, and are having trouble removing the 3 screws without stripping the daylights out of them (20 years of rust is a powerful weld) - a simple impact driver ($7 from Harbor Freight) works WONDERS. I was getting ready to drill them out, and 15 seconds with the impact driver spun them right on out, easy as pie. The right tools make a world of difference.

And make sure to get 12-point star nuts for the hub nuts on the back of the steering knuckle - NOT just a regular 12 point socket. Star nuts will grip and not strip the bolt (I learned my lesson after ruining one side). Once again, a $8 kit at Harbor Freight.