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My front brakes are getting me frustrated....

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    #1

    My front brakes are getting me frustrated....

    Ok so about 3 weeks ago i was on a local freeway for about 30mins and got off. The off ramp i got off at was a pretty steep down hill ramp. I go to apply the brakes to slow down and the pedal goes straight to the floor with minimal stopping power...Long story short i pumped the pedal a bunch of times and finally got enough pressure in the system to stop the car...Turned out the M/C was shot so i replaced it. I adjusted the pedal push rod and bled the system.

    So now my pedal feels pretty good, BUT my front brakes wont release complete pressure when i let off the pedal causing them to drag. They aren't dragging to the point where they heat up and smoke, but my car wont freely roll down a sloped hill by itself. I jacked the car up and i can bearly turn the front tires, the rear tires spin fine. I cracked the front bleeder screws to see if there was pressure causing the caliper to not release, and there wasnt any pressure. So now im thinking WTF!?!?! The calipers are less then a year old, so i dont think it could be something in them can it? I also replaced both front brake lines when i replaced the calipers...

    I dont think its the proportioning valves cuz our cb7's have diagonal split brake lines and the rear tires are fine. If it was something wrong in that area the right front and left rear would drag or left front right rear...

    Any tips would be much appreciated!!!
    Tags: None
    #2
    The lack of pressure sounds like a failing master cylinder, or air in the lines.

    Are the calipers brand new, or refurbished. If a caliper won't release, it may be seizing. Just because something is new doesn't mean it can't fail.






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      #3
      The calipers were rebuilt i believe. The master is brand new i just put it in, and i bled the whole system. Its just weird i didnt have this problem til i replaced the master. Thats why i don't think its the calipers...

      Comment

        #4
        Then the next most likely thing is that you didn't bleed the system properly. Or you got a faulty new master cylinder.






        Comment

          #5
          Take the calipers off and make sure the piston is not seized. A little off topic but you did bench bleed the MC right. Well anyways if the MC has a warrenty on it, take it back and get another one.

          86 4Runner - 22RE 5spd, 4" Lift, 35x12.5R15 BFG Km2's, 4.10 gears
          "The Turtle"
          DD/Trail Rig/Mud Bug

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            #6
            How much pedal free play do you have? Check the free play by lightly pressing the pedal pad with your fingertips, there should be at least 1/8" movement at the pad before the pushrod contacts the MC piston.
            Regards from Oz,
            John.

            Comment

              #7
              you gotta make sure when u replaced the mc that none of the washers from the old one got stuck or anything. they are easy to miss and they will cause problems. i would also check to make sure u didnt adjust that brake booster adju too much.
              frostwhite225@gmail.com =VENMO


              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOB38zJu66o

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                #8
                Also make sure your soft brake lines at the wheels are not collapsed or deteriorated on the inside. It might not be apparent from the outside, but if they are they can act like a one way valve, letting fluid into the caliper piston bore but tending to block it on the way out. What happens is the interior lining can deteriorate and collapse in such a way to create this "one way valve" effect and poor brake release.

                did you pull the caliper slider pins out and make sure they were clean, then regrease them with synthetic brake grease? One of mine had a rust ring due to a failed rubber boot that let moisture in, and it wouldn't slide out past a certain point until I pulled the thing out (had to use a punch to punch it out), cleaned it smooth, then regreased it and fixed the boot.

                Also, make sure there's a bit of free play before your pedal hits the master cylinder pushrod. Otherwise the m.c. will be always slightly "on" pressure.

                Originally posted by xkjnboix View Post
                you gotta make sure when u replaced the mc that none of the washers from the old one got stuck or anything. they are easy to miss and they will cause problems. i would also check to make sure u didnt adjust that brake booster adju too much.
                How do adjust the brake booster and what does brake booster adjustment accomplish? I would like more oomph with my brakes and am wondering if perhaps that could be helpful (of course first I am going to replace the rotors but I'm just wondering about the brake booster too now)
                Last edited by batever; 09-13-2009, 09:21 PM.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by batever View Post
                  Also make sure your soft brake lines at the wheels are not collapsed or deteriorated on the inside. It might not be apparent from the outside, but if they are they can act like a one way valve, letting fluid into the caliper piston bore but tending to block it on the way out. What happens is the interior lining can deteriorate and collapse in such a way to create this "one way valve" effect and poor brake release.

                  did you pull the caliper slider pins out and make sure they were clean, then regrease them with synthetic brake grease? One of mine had a rust ring due to a failed rubber boot that let moisture in, and it wouldn't slide out past a certain point until I pulled the thing out (had to use a punch to punch it out), cleaned it smooth, then regreased it and fixed the boot.

                  Also, make sure there's a bit of free play before your pedal hits the master cylinder pushrod. Otherwise the m.c. will be always slightly "on" pressure.



                  How do adjust the brake booster and what does brake booster adjustment accomplish? I would like more oomph with my brakes and am wondering if perhaps that could be helpful (of course first I am going to replace the rotors but I'm just wondering about the brake booster too now)
                  very good point... i had an old camro i did full set of brakes on cause i though the calipers where stickin... well i replaced everything but the lines.... well day later my brakes cought fire... lol my camro burned twice on the way home lol it was alful anyways it turned out the lines had collasped and thats what caused me to catch my camro on fire haha it was a turd so no wasted tears

                  Please, Leave me some feeedback on my ride ^CLICK ^CLICK ^CLICK
                  Originally posted by deevergote.
                  But Honda guys know EVERYTHING about EVERYTHING! If you don't believe that, then you're just wrong...

                  Comment

                    #10
                    did u bledd the master cylinder before u put it on

                    Comment

                      #11
                      sounds like your brake lines. quick way to tell is after you apply pressure you said it locks up. open the bleeder valve so the pressure can be relieved. when it gets relieved if the wheel turns loose than it's your hose. if it doesn't release it's your caliper. if it's been less than a year you should still have warranty for your calipers. when you open the bleeder just relieve the pressure and close the valve so air doesn't go into your line.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        you sure you adjusted that pushrod properly?
                        I <3 G60.

                        0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Thanks for all the tips!!! I got the Special Service Tool from Honda to adjust the push rod correctly so we'll see if thats it...

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Originally posted by 91lxf22a1 View Post
                            I got the Special Service Tool from Honda to adjust the push rod correctly so we'll see if thats it...
                            You're kidding, there is such a tool? I used an open ended spanner ...

                            PS a spanner is a wrench...
                            Regards from Oz,
                            John.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              I think hes trying to adjust the push rod with the Booster installed.
                              The booster has a crazy set nut on one side of it.
                              It has like 10 edges around it. Nothing your normal wrench can grab, reliably
                              Your man for wiring solutions!
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