Snapped Timing Belt

[batever]

I know when i had to ajust my Cam, it was a bugger. those little valves create alot of tention, I was able to get mine moved with a wrench and another locked into the end of it. If its THAT difficult, you may want to pull the head off just in case man... If there is a shattered valve, its probablly flying around on the top of the piston

The resistance you feel when the plugs are out and you rotate the crankshaft or camshaft by hand is the valve springs.

[batever]

No i didnt forget about making sure the balancer pullys turned with the crank.

don't worry about the balance shaft aligment, you can line those up later once the crankshaft and camshaft are lined up properly.

[batever]

solved the issue..... duhhhh I have a scope that i can just look in the spark plug hole and make the pistions are mid way not at tdc or bdc the cam turned back to tdc just fine so my hopes are good so far. going to put the belt on and trun the crank 720 to see if there is an issue.... cross fingers.

Now that you think it's lined up, also check the tdc line on the flywheel and see if it's in the ballpark when the camshaft pulley timing marks are lined up with the top of the engine block (or the up arrow is perpendicular to the head) and the crankshaft mark is lined up too.

[Heffe55]

well if the crank shaft marks are matched. meaning the key way is pointed to the mark on the block and the cam shaft UP mark is pointed up with the deck of the head wouldnt the flywheel be at TDC or is that a way to see if the crankshaft is twisted or broken?

[Heffe55]

well good news i hand cranked the engine and no issues the only hard parts to turn is when i hit compresson spots so my guess is that it has good compression another good sign. now time to replace the water pump. yeah im working on this really slow getting distracted by other things people comming in to talk and well looking at fun stuff for the car on the internet.... I know i need to pull my head out and just work on the car....lol

[Heffe55]

Whoooot!!!!!!!!!! I just replaced the timing and balancer belts along with the water pump. I need to buy new plugs cap and rotor just for good measures I know I need new wires and one of the accessory belts the other is ok but why not just replace it as well. It doesnt seem like a smart idea to replace all the other belts and skip one. I need to get a new bottom timing cover the one i took off has a big hole in it from where the crank pulley and one of the belts cut its way threw it.

So far im in to this car for 100.00 purchase price 47.00 for title transfer and 78.00 in parts so far.

I still need a few other parts, emissions and tabs oh yeah and insurance and this sucker is rollin..... Now its time to start saving money for all the fun upgrades like wheels, euro lights, sound system and the ever popular H22 or H23 power build. I think I will just pick up parts here and there and build the engine on a stand and once its complete then do the drop in.

Anyone know of anyone that wants to buy my Probe...lol j/k....

[batever]

well if the crank shaft marks are matched. meaning the key way is pointed to the mark on the block and the cam shaft UP mark is pointed up with the deck of the head wouldnt the flywheel be at TDC or is that a way to see if the crankshaft is twisted or broken?

Yes you are right, my bad. Let's leave a broken crankshaft out of it!

If the crankshaft keyway is pointed to the mark, the flywheel will show the TDC mark but you have only a 50% chance that piston 1 is at TDC on the intake stroke. The other possibility is that piston 4 is at TDC on the compression stroke and piston 1 is at tdc on the exhaust stroke. In both cases, the flywheel will show the TDC mark.

This is because,as you yourself noted, the crankshaft rotates two times for every rotation of the camshaft, so there are two instances of the crankshaft keyway being lined up for every complete cycle of engine operation.

But if both the crankshaft keyway is lined up *and* the camshaft pulley is up relative to the head, then you are good and can throw the timing belt on.

The problem occurs if they are in some intermediate position vis a vis one another as you stated earlier in your posts.

With the timing belt having been broken, there was no correspondence between the camshaft and the crankshaft, so you needed to look to see how the cam was lined up either by looking at the rocker arms on the head to see that the #1 intake valve is closed and the #1 exhaust valve is closed. Or, depending on where the crankshaft was and the actual open/closed state of the valves, figure out a nondamaging, safe, and "least amount of travel" way to adjust the camshaft position so the valve train is in synch with the crankshaft/pistons, perhaps looking at or constructing a table of valve positions for each cylinder in each part of the engine operation. Which you did it sounds like.