Oil cooler leak

[Juan4DCB7]

Alright, I have an oil leak coming form the oil cooler that is connects the oil filter to the block. I have searched this whole website for info on how to replace the o-ring behing the oil cooler and so far I have read that it is an easy fix.
I've talked with a mechanic and he said that he will fix it for me for 50$ and I do not feel like paying that much since I just read that it is an easy fix. He told me that he will be charging me that much, because he said that coolant leaks from there as well as oil and I was thinking BS, but was not sure because I have never done this before.

So should I just pay him to do it or should I just go to the dealership to get the o-ring and replace it myself?

If i replace it myself should I do it when the car is cold or would it matter if the car is warm?

[nine_deuce]

I think I'd do it myself. And I'd do it when the car is cold, that way if you do get any fluid leakage it'll be cold and won't burn ya

[Juan4DCB7]

hah yea, but I have been wondering what the Mechanic said about coolant also leaking when it is taken off, I think that oil is the only thing that should be leaking out once I take out the cooler?

Ohh, almost forgot does the cooler, when put back in with the new o-ring, require some sort of lubricant or as is? and is there any torque specifications for how tight the the cooler should be tightened?

[cloudasc]

The oil cooler has coolant lines running to it, and depending on how the oil cooler comes out, probably by unscrewing it, you'll have to disconnect the coolant lines going to it in order to do so. For the o-ring, you want to pre-lube it with clean/fresh oil before using it. I'd tighten it about as tight as you would your spark plugs as a minimum, it is an alluminum block afterall, I'm sure someone knows the torque spec on it. Post up you!

[nine_deuce]

On the h22 and h23 oil cooler, the stud where the oil filter screws on, that comes out, I forget the size of the socket needed to take it off, off the top of my head. But, if you do it carefully, you may not need to unhook the coolant lines.

And as for the gasket, I'd use some engine oil, just like with the filter. It's kind of a tight fit up there, so, just be patient.

I'm thinking about getting an aftermarket oil cooler/filter relocation kit, that way changing filters will be a lot easier

[Juan4DCB7]

yea just read up on the Autozone free guide book or something and it tells me everything step by step and so far after reading a coup[le of post i think i will be needing a 30mm socket for the screw that holds the filter in place and will be tourquing it down to 54 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figure 1

Some models employ a water-cooling collar at the oil filter to absorb some heat from the oil stream. Coolant flows through the oil cooler and conducts the heat to the radiator. Under most conditions, the oil will be hotter than the coolant so the heat exchange cools the oil.

1. With the engine cold, drain the coolant.

2. Disconnect the coolant lines running to the oil cooler.

3. Remove the oil filter. Although the engine is cold and most of the oil is in the sump, be prepared for some oil spillage; clean it up immediately.







Fig. Fig. 1: Some fuel injected engines employ an oil cooler mounted on the oil filter base

Take great care not to allow coolant to drip into the oil system. If this occurs, the oil must be drained and refilled with fresh, unpolluted oil.

4. Remove the oil cooler center bolt; this is the fitting onto which the oil filter is installed.

5. Remove the oil cooler and its O-ring.



To install:

6. Install a new O-ring on the cooler. Install the cooler, positioning it properly to align the hose ports. Install the center bolt and tighten it to 54 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).

7. Install the oil filter.

8. Connect the hoses to the cooler; use new hose clamps. Check that the hoses are properly routed and that there are no kinks or sharp bends.

9. Refill the coolant.

10. Start the engine and check for leaks.

[Juan4DCB7]

The only thing that I thing is unnecessary is draining the coolant, but everything else looks rather easy.

I'll probably be doing this tomorrow since I do not have time today. lol

[jholber2]

Prepare yourself...

I just pulled off my gf's oil cooler last night. You'll need a 1-1/8" socket and 1/2" ratchet to get it off. If it's not been on there for a decade, you might be able to get it off with an adjustable wrench...no luck for me.

Her cooler had an internal fracture and oil was seeping into the coolant system from there. A honda replacement will run you $350. The o-ring/gasket is less than $4. I just sealed the crack with a nickel brazing rod and a mapp gas torch. So far so good. Hope this helps!

[Juan4DCB7]

damn hope mine is not cracked and that it is only the gasket.

[9tAkord]

Did it before and it is pretty straight forward but, if the $50 offered to you includes the oil change then i'd say go for it...

[Juan4DCB7]

i do not thinks that it includes the oil change but that I can do.

[bcjammerx]

should he use any teflon "tape", like what they use in plumbing apps. for the threads? (given it is done properly and non gets in the oil passageways)

[Leung]

i wouldn't use any tteflon tape because it might melt. i put some Hondabond onto the gasket when i replaced it for this girl who lived down the street.

[Juan4DCB7]

was it to keep the o-ring from falling or to lubricate?

[Juan4DCB7]

I finally got around changing the o-ring, which only cost me 4.27 with taxes included and it was fairly easy. the hradest part was trying to take the old o-ring off, i had to take it out by poking it with a small pocket knife lol. I lubricated it with new engine oil and put on the cooler, i do not know why people say that it is really difficult to hold it in place, becasue it falls. Mine stuck on there right and did not have any issue falling off, i also did not take the coolent lines off the cooler; so no messing around with the coolant haha. everything went smooth and if anyone has any questions i would be happy to answer them.

yay one less leak